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  #1  
Old 07-10-2016, 03:12 PM
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truetone36 truetone36 is offline
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Just curious- how did a Packard-Bell end up in your neck of the woods?
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:34 AM
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I think it was actually in NC, but drug up to Fredricsburg where I got it. Guy that had it used the cabinet for something else, yeah he's one of those guys...
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:59 PM
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I've seen what those guys do. I have a bookcase that was made using a Philco TV-123 cabinet. When I asked about the guts I was told they went to the dump.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truetone36 View Post
I've seen what those guys do. I have a bookcase that was made using a Philco TV-123 cabinet. When I asked about the guts I was told they went to the dump.
How much of the cabinet do you have? Shame about the original guts, but it could be a fun project to fit a later roundie chassis in the tv123 cabinet.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by truetone36 View Post
I've seen what those guys do. I have a bookcase that was made using a Philco TV-123 cabinet. When I asked about the guts I was told they went to the dump.
Bob Galanter (ohohyodafarted) has one with a terrible cabinet...He may want to buy yours.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:06 AM
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One of mine (the large 123 console) is pretty nasty too, looks like it sat in a basement most of its life. Bottom plywood board is going to need replacement, it's missing the back (have a template to make one), and the finish is shot. The table model set isn't as bad, but will still need going through to be up to snuff.

Speaking of cabinets, I took the Silvertone to a local place to have it gone through. Place looks like it will be able to take care of me, and I gave them the lowdown on how to deal with bad photofinish. They are going to install new ribbon mahogany for me, replace the broken speaker board, and put new grill cloth on it from AES. AES had a cloth that was very close to the original, I got lucky. Price was a little more than I wanted to pay, but I'd really rather not do it again myself because it was such a pain.

Here's the place I took it to: http://www.schoenbauer.com/
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:40 PM
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I have the complete cabinet, but it's rough. It has veneer issues and some of the glued joints are a bit loose. It had been sitting in a shed for several years by the time I found it.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:56 AM
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Got any spare knobs?
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:18 PM
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truetone36 truetone36 is offline
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Knobs for what set?
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Old 07-17-2016, 07:41 PM
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miniman82 miniman82 is offline
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The TV-123! I think I'm only short one or maybe two of the small ones, but that set is gonna wait around for a long time till I get to it anyway. The table model 123 takes precedence before that one, once this here Silvertone is done of course.


Update: I think I finally have all the capacitors replaced on the Silvertone chassis, it was a real pain in the butt since everything is really crammed in there. Also seems like this thing was built on a Friday near shift change if you know what I mean, lots of excessive solder on joints, components not routed in what I would call an intelligent manner, and even a capacitor goof from the factory. It seems whoever built this got confused about which cap to put where, because a non-polar horizontal centering cap got installed where a normal 'lytic should have been and the polarized 'lytic wound up in the horizontal centering spot. The caps in question were C13 (10uf polar in the horizontal oscillator) and C12 on the H-cent wiper to ground.








Next issue I'm going to have is, the H-yoke connections in this chassis are center tapped and my test jig is not. Anyone see an issue leaving the center tap off for testing, or would it not deflect properly? Schematic is below, wire in question comes off tap #2 on the flyback.

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/s...sams_388-1.pdf


Reason it would be nice to be able to use the jig is the CRT on this thing completely obscures the chassis components, so if there's an issue after recap and I stick the tube back in it has to come right back out and that's a PITA on this thing. Would be nice to be able to debug it, then put the jug back in.
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Last edited by miniman82; 07-17-2016 at 07:52 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-23-2016, 09:20 PM
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In the end I made an extension cable for the original yoke and put it in the jig. That wasn't easy, since the original yoke has this odd plug that looks octal but has 9 pins. Fortunately I had such a plug in my box of test jig cables, so I was able to bring it up that way. Raster came up but I had no video, so I went through all the tubes in the chassis. Found a dead 6BR8 in the tuner and a dead 6AH6 which is the 4th IF tube. New ones are on their way, hopefully once those are in we will see some color bars.
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:54 PM
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Lookie what we got here, cabinet guys came through today in fine style. I think I'll use them for all my future restorations, they did a very good job on this. Here's the website, in case anyone in the area was wondering: http://schoenbauer.com/

Ignore the wires puking out the top of the speaker mounting board, I already fixed that. The speakers are both shot anyhow, I need a 6x9 and a little tweeter as well (4" I assume). Grill cloth was sourced from AES, they had something very similar to the original stuff.




I think the tubes for the chassis came in the mail today as well, which means that by the weekend I should be able to dive back into the chassis and figure out why I'm not getting a signal through the front end. Wish me luck!
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:42 PM
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Fantastic job on the cabinet & the grill cloth. Looking forward to your progress reports.

-Steve D.
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2016, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
I need a 6x9 and a little tweeter as well (4" I assume).
Think these might work? The 6x9 measures 3.5 ohms dc, the tweeter 12 ohms. I think the 6x9 actually came out of an RCA set, as it has the crossover cap still on it. There's a couple of little "oops" holes around the rim of the 6x9.



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  #15  
Old 08-03-2016, 07:02 PM
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miniman82 miniman82 is offline
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Sure, I'll PM my address if you want to donate them to the cause. Just measured the voice coil on the high frequency speaker here, and it's 12 ohms as well.
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