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#1
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Super Mario Bros!
Picked up my Super Mario Bros, finally, from my friend's place.....this is one I got from Roundscreen years ago, but never picked up from his house, with my untimely double move and divorce.....
So, here she is! Need to get the screen fixed, as it compresses at the top. Any ideas as to where to start, guys? Already tried the vertrical size, and it just rolls up more, top and bottom.
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#2
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NICE!
There are probably a few bad capacitors in the vertical output section - if not a driver/output transistor as well. Also look for open or increased resistor values in the vertical output circuit. Any one of these can cause the foldover you see.
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Jordan |
#3
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X2
all that use and abuse after yeArs of use kill caps in those video monitors. I worked on a few of those in the past for an arcade center up here and slot of them were always leaky elecrolytics and resistors. Good luck that looks like a sweet and clean arcade!!
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#4
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Stupid question, but can't I just adapt a regular TV chassis somehow, or is this something special?
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#5
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Tim
The crt still looks good so I would re cap the monitor. It is a RGB monitor so a tv chassis would not work. Google amusements plus in Rochester and give them the make and model number of that monitor. They might have a cap kit for it. I can show ya how to re cap the monitor, It is not that hard and will last for years when done. The cabinet did clean up nice, Trust me, It did not look that good when Tim got it Ed |
Audiokarma |
#6
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Probably 4 or 5 electrolytics tops, since it does look good as everyone's mentioned. Is it a Sanyo monitor by any chance? I remember seeing a Donkey Kong with one of those and it too had vertical troubles.
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#7
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Quote:
I have a Sanyo monitor in my donkey kong and the picture is vary clear and bright with no burns. The best thing to do with the old monitors is re cap the whole chassis or it will fail again. Ed |
#8
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That's true, Ed. Capacitors can't be expected to last longer than 20-25 years !! After all they were never meant to last that long really....
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#9
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33 years and counting for my 1976 Wards Airline set...
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#10
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That is awesome! It's been years since I've seen one of those!
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
Audiokarma |
#11
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After an hour or so of play, the monitor's color is starting to fade.....kind of looks like a sunfaded photograph now. I'll take some more pics and find out what kind of monitor's inside.
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#12
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I took a look in the warehouse today and we still have some of the old monitors.
We might have one like yours and the boss will sell it to me cheap. Also the fade could be the computer power supply. So we will need to see if your game has the old power supply. Some times you can convert older games to a newer power supply. Ed |
#13
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Been meaning to chat with you.....I gotta have you over and show you how nicely displayed everything is. You'll be very happy
I just got a little cash, too, and I needs me a nice "daily driver" for the living room
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#14
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Same here, Been bad and picked up more set's for ya.
I will give you a call when I get home from work Sunday night. Ed |
#15
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I know it's been a while and this thread is probably about dead...however, I honestly never got over to this section that much.
I work on coin-op stuff. I've encountered a TON of these Nintendo monitors. Majority of them are made by Sanyo. There are kits sold by various coin-op suppliers to re-cap these things...gives you a bag of electrolytics and a sheet that tells you what to change. It's not just 4 or 5, I think there's about 20 that need to be changed to ensure the picture comes out halfway right. The Sanyo's are famous for curled picture. The problem with the Nintendo games has generally been that they have an integrated audio amplifier board mounted to the monitor frame. It pulls it's power from the monitor and runs off something like 150 volts, you almost need the original monitor to use it. Generally these need at least a basic recapping to work, sometimes they need to be rebuilt if they've been plugged up incorrectly. Some Nintendo games also use an inverted video. I worked on a Space Launcher that had a 13" monitor in it. This was old-school Nintendo stuff so we thought it used standard RGB interface, however, it used all that propritary Nintendo stuff. We got the monitor working but had inverted color values and no sound. Mikesarcade sells a replacement board that runs off 12volts that will give you the proper video and audio amplification. This will allow you to adapt a standard CGA monitor to work with the thing...however... Super Mario Bros uses a 19" monitor...and the companies making the CRT's stopped making them...so 19" CGA gaming monitors are extremely difficult to come by and prices have shot up. Generally tubes are fine..they're just old/faded/burnt, but a chasis rebuild/repair will get it working again if you come across a standard gaming monitor that doesn't work. If you really want to get crazy, you can get 19" LCD's in a frame that will work in arcade games...we suspect as soon as the price drops to a more reasonable level we'll be going that route...but as for right now, we're rebuilding chasis. happcontrols.com has the rebuild kits for the common old monitors. I don't remember offhand where we're getting cap-kits for our offbrand stuff..I don't do ordering at work. mikesarcade.com has a bunch of other stuff..including the video inverter/amp board and various chips and upgrades for games (like the high-score save kit for SMB) As far as caps aging and such.....it depends on a LOT of factors. Quite a few of these games spent a LOT of years turned off and stored in odd conditions...plus they generally used cheap caps. However, there have been cases with some equipment that's been stored in halfway decent conditions indoors and used on a semi-regular basis they'll last for years. It also depends on the type of cap. An old wax cap generally dries out...old electrolytics dry up...but things like old micas and disc caps, they last almost forever.
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Audio: SMSL M8 -> Little Bear P5 -> Sansui SE8 -> Yaqin MS-12B -> Denon PMA-770 -> Ohm Model L | Ham: NQ4T - IC-7300 [/SIZE][/COLOR] |
Audiokarma |
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