#31
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If I ever plan to travel to the US some day you guys will be the first to know.... I expect a 'full demonstration' of a colour roundie, a Zenith porthole and one of those cool RCA Projection Sets and more plus a road trip to an old TV shop thats been locked up for 30 years...Am I asking too much??....
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Visit my Vintage TV & Radio Page - http://nzvintagetvradio.blogspot.com/ My YouTube Link - http://www.youtube.com/user/glenz1975?feature=mhsn |
#32
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Thanks for those photos EM From what I've seen of your early sets the picture quality looks really good and such natural colour, those colour bars pretty much say it.
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Visit my Vintage TV & Radio Page - http://nzvintagetvradio.blogspot.com/ My YouTube Link - http://www.youtube.com/user/glenz1975?feature=mhsn |
#33
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love the pics!that roundy looks as good as it did when new.
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#34
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Those pics are before I had and fixed a vertical failure. The gray scale is slightly off now but still good. I also have always had what I think are drive bars that I have to get around to trying to fix. The focus tends to vary with scene content (which also reaks havok with convergence). Most of these problems don't show in photos, but are just bad enough to bug me in person so I still have work left on this set.
Glad you liked the pictures. Tom C. |
#35
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Audiokarma |
#36
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Do some research, you will find a flyback you can sub in there if you are willing to spend the time. It will most likely require changing the bracket and maybe changing some of the wiring around but it can be done. Zenith is one of the tougher ones to sub so look at other Zenith sets for something similar.
Last edited by ctc17; 07-17-2011 at 01:21 AM. |
#37
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Congratulations, and I am envious! Been looking for one of those for a LONG time.... That's the early one with the two 3DG4 B+ rectifiers. If it ever comes up for sale, please keep me in mind...
Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 |
#38
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#39
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I'd love to help, but something to go on would be nice... Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#40
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Audiokarma |
#41
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I checked, and don't have either the 95S-53620, or the 895-00737 replacement specified by Zenith in their 1983 parts catalog listing.
Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#42
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More digging reveals the S-56538 is the listed (in 12/1969) Zenith replacement for your S-53620. Triad D-327 replaces the S-56538. My Thordarson guide lists the Fly 274 as a replacement for the S-56538 as well....
Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#43
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The first in the bunch to work
This is the first set out of the ones we picked up in Seattle. It is a CTC-16XL from 1966. I removed the cataracts and reinstalled the CRT and cleaned out the cabinet. Not too dirty. The chassis was very clean. It needed several tubes. All the caps check good. There was some bad solder so I went over all the boards carefully and re-soldered anything that looked flaky plus all the grounds. I cleaned all the controls and tuner. I was rewarded with a raster and a very decent picture. It will need a convergence touch up. I checked the cathode current and its about 208ma, I made a permanent jumper for convenience on a small terminal strip. I made some minor adjustments to the vertical height, horizontal centering and grayscale. I set the HV to 24KV as per Sams. The electrolytics stay cool even after several hours of running. This is a very easy chassis to work on. Much easier than the CTC-9. here are some pics
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"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee |
#44
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I like the CTC-16, very easy to work on. I routinely replace the HOT coupling caps (think there are two a .01 and a .0068 IIRC), the 1kv caps on vert and audio out transformers (white ceramic tube caps). The .0082 1kv vert out plate cap. I do the 1kv just cause I cant really test them with my cap tester.
Then there are the 3 .01 coupling caps in the 6GU7 grids on the chroma board. the one that is right next to the tube and a power resistor ALWAYS test weak, the other two generally test ok, but I replace them anyway. I also like to replace the .1 video coupliing cap to the 12xxx video out tube, and the .1 in the AGC (just because AGC is a pain if its not right). All the hi value lower volt brown drops are suspect, but if they sit right next to a heat source I like to check them. |
#45
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I will order all new caps sometime in the future. right now it works very well.
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"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee |
Audiokarma |
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