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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#16
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Or Deoxit D100L, which is not a spray like D5. You apply with a small artist's brush. 2 cc of D100 is enough for a large TV.
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#17
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Some recapping advice: never go lower on voltage rating (you can go higher, although more than double typically isn't recommended), but never lower. There are pre-war and post-war standard capacitance values. Both coexisted in the 50s-70s but the pre-war values are either NLA or stupid expensive. Prewar standard capacitance uF values were 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, post-war values are 10, 22, 33, 39, 47, 56, 68, 82 and various decimal relocations there of. Don't waste your money on pre-war value parts....Get the closest post war capacitance value and you'll be fine (especially on lytics where the original tolerance was shockingly broad). On multi-section electrolytic caps use several single section caps to replace it....There are companies that make replacement multi-section caps but they are generally not worth it unless you are restoring a holy grail model worth 4 figures.
Short leads can make things harder. Just radios and Bob's capacitors both only sell parts with good lead length, but are more expensive and shipping takes a long time. I typically buy from Mouser or digikey. For lytics I favor Panasonic, Nichicon, and Illinois Capacitor, for film caps Panasonic (especially the red ceramic cased film caps), Illinois Capacitor, and WIMA. You have to look at the data sheets and part numbers to make sure you're ordering the long lead film caps. Don't replace capacitors under 1000pF/uuF which are almost always mica...On the flip side caps 1000pF=.001uF are just about always paper (and should be replaced) even if they're disguised in the same domino cases associated with micas.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#18
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...and don't use either on wiping resistor potentiometers like most volume and adjustment controls for brightness, horizontal hold etc. Use Deoxit Fader spray. It won't eat the insides like regular DOx will. Ask me how....well, you know.
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#19
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Haha yes, I also have F5. I usually use it on sliders, but considering how much older this thing is compared to my usual repairs you may be correct. Thanks! |
#20
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What I would do is put two 22uF caps rated in the 350V-450V range in series. Electrolytic caps have polarity like batteries (and will explode and or smoke if connected backwards), and when placed in series you want to connect the positive of one cap to the negative of the other. Additionally since electrolytics are rarely perfectly identical even from the same maker there's a tendency for the voltage to split unevenly...To prevent this get two 470K ohm 1W resistors and place a resistor in parallel with each cap. The loading of the resistors will be negligible on the circuit but enough to equalize voltage across each cap....This is basically the exact circuit used for the first lytic off the rectifier in the Dumont RA-103.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#21
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#22
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[QUOTE=bandersen;3256220]Here's a copy of the Riders service info: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_EZ...ew?usp=sharing
I've put together a beginners series on restoring TVs like yours you may find useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShgX...xkxFV3Y20pv6Nb Congrats to YOUR YARDBIRDS-shirt! I would like to have one, too! One of the best 60s groups! Btw., Your ADMIRAL model was part of a Perry Mason episode, in which is was stored inside a garage. That means that it was taken out of work after about 12-14 years or so. I own the version with the flat front screen panel. Just like yours with a 10" CRT and 2 chassis. Regards, TV-collector
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Scotty, beam me up, there is no more 4/3 Television and AM radio in Germany! Last edited by TV-collector; 04-02-2024 at 05:45 AM. |
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