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  #46  
Old 01-13-2015, 10:57 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dishdude View Post
Wow that's a beautiful picture! I'm glad you got it working, I like the console tabletop look the cabinet has. I don't think I have ever seen one in person.

Had ONE_-back in about this time of 1988. It even had a built-in stand. Found it "shopping' on a SNOWY night.


Got it running (can't remember what was wrong...maybe NOTHING..) and sold it--back then, $ 50 or so was decent gas/food money for me.
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  #47  
Old 01-15-2015, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dishdude View Post
Wow that's a beautiful picture! I'm glad you got it working, I like the console tabletop look the cabinet has. I don't think I have ever seen one in person.
It's not quite a "tabletop console". Like RCA2000 said , it's a pedestal set. Here's a complete picture of it. I prefer the look of the tv without the stand myself, but i'm not going to throw it away because of it historic "value"
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  #48  
Old 01-15-2015, 09:03 AM
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magnavox made a pedestal set also.this is a very nice,rare set.hybrid zeniths produced the very best picture.we had several hybrid 19 inch sets and they sold quickly because of the fine picture.newer,solid state sets were passed by because of the picture quality.zeniths blew them away.i would love to have this set!
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  #49  
Old 03-30-2015, 09:25 PM
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So, a bit of an update. I went ahead and ordered the 4 tubes that where in the set : 6LF6 (that I substitued for an 6LX6, because the 6LF6 price was stratospheric) , 6U10, 6DT3 and 6JA5. As soon as I replaced them I noticed 2 immediate effects :
- My light pull on the right disappeared!
- Convergence went A-wall...

So after a bit of trying this trying that I arrived at a pretty good result with the convergence.

Now 2 problems I have :

Firstly, those lines at the top of the screen are still there ,and they don't go away after the sets warms up. (see picture 2). They seem to fade in, and then fade out...

Secondly, and that is a very minor problem, color seems to have trouble syncing when I power up the set. I have to rotate the VHF knob ever so slightly and they come back.

One minor observation, is it possible that Delta gun crt, even very good one like the chromacolor, are not capable of producing a picture as sharp as an inline tube? I think the sharpness on my chromacolor is OK, but it can't hold a candle to my cheap 1986 hitachi.

Thanks!
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  #50  
Old 03-30-2015, 10:04 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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fade in fade out lines, macro vision copy protection.

good convergence/good CRT/should make a nice sharp pic. May not be able to get convergence perfect on edges, but still should be sharp where it is converged. Does the focus adj take you in and out of focus, or does it run out of range (best focus is achieved with the pot turned to fully CW or CCW)?

I had a recent CC that needed a new focus divider to get the range under control to where I could focus precisely.

Last edited by DaveWM; 03-30-2015 at 10:52 PM.
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  #51  
Old 03-30-2015, 10:46 PM
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I happen to KNOW....a good chromacolor set can outdo about ANY in-line tube...PERIOD !!

Chromacolor II zenith sets had about the BEST overall color picture. About the only thing better in overall color picture (but NOT brightness of course) is a Zenith ROUNDIE
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  #52  
Old 03-31-2015, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
fade in fade out lines, macro vision copy protection.
It looks more like vertical under scan allowing the Closed Captioning data to be visible to me. Can you play a program that is not letter boxed and look for under scan?
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  #53  
Old 03-31-2015, 07:40 AM
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First off the set is probably a "Super Chromacolor" an
improved chromacolor.
chromacolor II sets were the next year sets with upright
solid state chassii. ( 19EC45 etc).

Lines are from the CC or other "new" add ons to the signal.
They were not around when the set was new, 99.99% was
off air or cable then.

By nature small screens look sharper. With a perfect set-up &
CRT your set will give a very detailed picture for its time. BUT they
can not run at the brightness & contrast of in-lines without
loss of some pix quality. The set also has a sharpness control on
the rear. Often the little white knob goes missing but its the
common size.

The color I assume is "barber poling" before locking in.
First clean the NORMAL -ALIGN switch on top of chassis.
Then put into ALIGN. On the 9-27 module there are 2 controls
ACC & APC. Adjust the control so you get the least amount of bars
or the tint slowly changes. Go back to NORMAL & try it.
If it still gives trouble you can pull the 9-27 module & clean
the IC & socket carefully. Not the way it came out & use an insulated
screwdriver to adjust !! Also spray the module contacts.

73 Zeno
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  #54  
Old 03-31-2015, 07:42 AM
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OOPS
Adjust the APC control only.
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  #55  
Old 03-31-2015, 12:48 PM
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Can you tell me which one is the APC?

Also, I took a picture of the geometry of the screen, I can't seem to be able to ajust the picture to get it to fill the whole screen without stretching/deforming it.

As for the sharpness, maybe I went too far in saying that it can't hold a candle to my cheap Hitachi, I don't want to upset you guys But I feel it is a bit lacking. As for the focus pot, it is almost maxed out. Just before the last 1/16 turn adjustment the focus seem to get worst...so I guess the range is still there...somewhat, but for all intent and purpose it is almost 100% full ccw.

thanks!
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  #56  
Old 03-31-2015, 04:14 PM
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You definitely have vertical under-scan at the top and bottom. You need to readjust the vertical height and linearity (and possibly centering).
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  #57  
Old 03-31-2015, 05:14 PM
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as long as you can get to a point where the focus gets best and then continuing to turn gets bad again then you have a usable range. but as you noted you are almost out of range. I opted to replace the focus divider on mine to get it back more near the center. Sometimes the pot itself becomes an issue with dirty or worn spots making careful adjustment a problem. You can swap the ends around on the pot to get to a better unworn out part if you want to try that.
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  #58  
Old 03-31-2015, 05:25 PM
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Dont remember witch is APC but.
The 9-27 almost always has a shield over it with 2
holes & a sticker showing the controls. Also look
on the layout.
If you dont find them I can dig up tomorrow.

Vert size pots ( 63-9115 ) always got bad spots.
We bought strips of them but you can also usually
clean them.

73 Zeno
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  #59  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
as long as you can get to a point where the focus gets best and then continuing to turn gets bad again then you have a usable range. but as you noted you are almost out of range. I opted to replace the focus divider on mine to get it back more near the center. Sometimes the pot itself becomes an issue with dirty or worn spots making careful adjustment a problem. You can swap the ends around on the pot to get to a better unworn out part if you want to try that.
I've got a 1971 Zenith 'more than 4' tube hybrid. The focus divider was drifty on mine and the pot was hitting the stop before getting proper results. I figured I could not find a divider and the circuit was simple, so for the first year or two I just added 4.7 Meg (IIRC) resistors (each time optimal focus went outside control range) until there were about three in series with the focus divider. It has been stable with sharp focus in range for a few years now, and it gets a lot of use.
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Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
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  #60  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:12 PM
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Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:37 PM.
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