1986 RCA Console TV Model G25343WK

[Console User]

I have still been tweaking TV Adjustments. I turn down the Picture Level to try to keep the blue smearing to the least visible level as possible but still have a picture that looks appealing enough to still watch. I've noticed that even if I turn the Picture Level way down close to dim I can still see the blue smearing near the TV. Does that indicate if I turn the Picture Level way down and the Blue is still Blooming on the Picture that it is a weak picture tube or does this signal there is another issue in TV Set other than a faulty picture tube? I've had other RCA Sets before that if I experienced Color Bleed in one of the colors I could turn down the Picture Level and it would usually take care of the issue. However, in this particular set this doesn't seem to help me much at all.

[jbattles]

can you post some pics

[Console User]

Pictures have been posted in my Album. If you click on my name. I added three pictures. I didn’t get picture of TV Flashing & Fluttering when turned on in morning when a Set is Cold. I turn it off & wait a few minutes then comes on & works fine. I presume that may be an issue in tuner soldering since it doesn’t do that on S Video?

[jbattles]

well the tuner issues is popping off station, TV turn off and back on just strange things. when RCA built the sets they used solder that was not the best quality and poorly soldered the grounds in the tuner. the solder will break apart and cause the voltage to go crazy and the microcomputer to change data in the e prom where the data is stored and the e prom would go bad.

from what i can tell it needs a setup, but 99% of the adjustments are the serve menu, but i suggest turn the picture control or contrast control down until it stops smearing or use s-video. let it play and see what happens.

i looked the model no up and the chassis no is ctc177, maybe zeno or john can chime in.

[Console User]

I was able to get into the Service Menu to where you can adjust your bias and Drive settings. I turned the Blue down on both of them. Also, made slight adjustments to the green. I do not seem to have the Blue bleeding out. I still do have a slight outline of some objects in blue if looking real close to set. However, when setting in my easy chair the picture to me looks better. This was done with the Picture Level turned down and the brightness increased. I guess, I talked to a Local TV Repairman and he told me not to run the set too much until I get the connections at my tuner fixed. He said it may make the e prom go out totally.

[zeno]

http://www.walshcomptech.com/repairf...une.htm#rcasuc

Write down all numbers before you make a change.
Dont touch tuner settings BUT do record them just in case.

[Console User]

Yep. I recorded all the numbers in the Bias and Drive Settings before changing them. I didn't go to the Tuner Settings. I just went to the Number V76. Here is the numbers what it was set at, followed by what I have them at now.

BIAS: Red-56; Green-46; Blue-45 Now set at In Order as listed before 56;40;35
Drive: Red-49; Green-39; Blue-36 Now set at In Order as listed before 49;35;28

To me the picture looks better. It even looks clearer and sharper. I do not seem to have the Blue Flaring . I do still have a little noticeable Blue Outline etching but not really noticeable anymore from a reasonable viewing distance. Just when up close to set when making adjustments.

[Console User]

I'm open to any suggestions that you may have if you think an adjustment in any of the colors would still improve my picture.

[jbattles]

The set is 25 years old and i believe the tuner has been done. When new they went a couple of years before they grounds had to be redone. make sure your color is off and you have a good grayscale when setting drives and bias and enjoy it. The blue out line is convergence and it was never perfect. Those were one of my favorite sets. in Atlanta they were everywhere. those sets and the zenith system 3 sets has a place in my heart.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Console User

It's my mistake. I typed in 1986 Model. I have a 1996 Model.

OK, big difference. The advice Jbattles gave you then is correct on the 1996 years regarding the tuner grounds and eeprom corruption if allowed to go uncorrected. Also, the two solder tabs on the horiz output and LV regulator IC heatsinks must also be soldered or the eeprom will corrupt.

John

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Console User

I guess, I talked to a Local TV Repairman and he told me not to run the set too much until I get the connections at my tuner fixed. He said it may make the e prom go out totally.

He's right. Also, there are two heatsinks with solder ground tabs: the horiz output and LV regulator IC heatsinks. Cracks on the solder will corrupt those faster than even the tuner grounds will.

I still have a couple of dozen of those stupid eeproms if something goes wrong. Most were the same except for features. I used to stock most of the higher featured ones to cover all the models.

John

[Console User]

I think, my Parents 1991 Zenith Console Set had a somewhat similar issue with the tuner ground. I can remember how it worked and worked with no known issues. Then one day in about 2011 or so we turned it on and we had a picture then in a few minutes when to snow. I fiddled around with the tuner on the main board and could get a picture if I propped up the tuner with a pencil or something. I can remember it was all going good until I was going to take it to a TV Shop. Then I somehow messed with it and hit something and the set went totally dead. We ended up having a replacement main board put in it. It ran for several more years after that. This set will only go to snow or start rolling, etc. usually after it's been on a few minutes the first thing in the morning. Then it seems to not act up the other times during the day when it's turned back on. I can't get it in the Shop until next week. I was hoping to get by with it until then?

[Console User]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

He's right. Also, there are two heatsinks with solder ground tabs: the horiz output and LV regulator IC heatsinks. Cracks on the solder will corrupt those faster than even the tuner grounds will.

I still have a couple of dozen of those stupid eeproms if something goes wrong. Most were the same except for features. I used to stock most of the higher featured ones to cover all the models.

John

The TV seems to work okay and not turn to snow or a blank screen if I use the RCA hookup on the back of TV versus the Coaxial Hookup. If this is the case will it be okay to use the TV this way until I get it into the shop or will it still be at risk of having the set go totally out before connections etc. are repaired?

Thanks.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by Console User

The TV seems to work okay and not turn to snow or a blank screen if I use the RCA hookup on the back of TV versus the Coaxial Hookup. If this is the case will it be okay to use the TV this way until I get it into the shop or will it still be at risk of having the set go totally out before connections etc. are repaired?

Thanks.

Hmm.. not 100% sure about the tuner connections, but I am positive the two heatsink tabs will corrupt the eeprom regardless of what input it's on.

I remember the first time we saw one of these in warranty shortly after they were in production- it came in with no sound. Back then, we didn't have the tricks we used later to recover the eeprom but just replaced the chip. It came back a week later with no sound. I changed the eeprom again and while it was running, I tapped the chassis board with the back end of a 1/4" driver like I did for years. The picture blinked and came back, but sound went out. Eeprom corrupted again. I called RCA tech support and they told me about resoldering the two heatsink tabs. This was before the tuners started acted up. Later on they issued a "goldenrod" bulletin on that.


John

EDIT: it's time consuming, but as long as the TV is running, I'd go in the service menu and write down every value, particularly the tuner parameters if you ever plan to use the tuner again. There were places selling "pre-programmed" eeproms but there is no such thing. On an analogue TV, every one is unique and quite different. If your eeprom goes bad, you can certainly readjust the grey scale, horiz osc, vert, etc., but the tuner will need to be aligned with a generator. RCA equipped the ASCs with a very clever device (frequency agile generator) that would output any channel on VHF Lo, Hi, UHF, and all cable bands. It had three attenuator switches and all you needed was a voltmeter to do a perfect tuner alignment. Using the attenuators, you could actually do it by eye. I still have the tuner aligner, one of the few things I didn't toss when we switched from CRTs to flats virtually overnight.

[Console User]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

He's right. Also, there are two heatsinks with solder ground tabs: the horiz output and LV regulator IC heatsinks. Cracks on the solder will corrupt those faster than even the tuner grounds will.

I still have a couple of dozen of those stupid eeproms if something goes wrong. Most were the same except for features. I used to stock most of the higher featured ones to cover all the models.

John

Would the issue with the tuner have anything to do with me getting a Blue Outline around dark hairline, dark clothing, etc. on the edges? It's like if you were to take a blue marker and trace around an object that is dark with a blue marker. Also, noticeable on black stenciled letters on a certain background. I believe, someone thought this may be a convergence issue and that they were always this way. I have had several RCA Sets but never dealt with this issue in the past.

Thanks.