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#32
11-09-2012, 03:02 PM
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:smoke:
We should just call this the cigarette thread.
When I started working on electronics in nightclubs they were all smoke filled hot boxes. Most of the failures and problems were due to smoke dust buildup in anything with a fan. From amps to tv to the condensing units in the beer coolers. The smoke turns into a heavy dust that plugs up the air flow and causes overheating. Its also attracted to anything with a high voltage potential. One of the many tests tvs undergo is exposure to hundreds of cigarettes in a sealed box, just like the shake tests and thermal testing. The organic plan tars are a great preservative for a chassis. You never really see corrosion or rust on a heavy smoker set. Personally I never got past that first taboo cigarette as a teenager, the one you feel all big, like you are getting away with some forbidden pleasure. Ohh we did occasionally smoke cloves at lunch in high school, but they taste good and get you wasted. 
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#33
11-09-2012, 03:34 PM
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I used to smoke a cigar about 2-3X a year just to remind myself how badly I HATED them. Ever since my stroke, I absolutely cannot stand to be around cigarette smoke of any kind...Even going into a barn where tobacco is hung, curing, gets me.
__________________
Benevolent Despot
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#34
11-09-2012, 05:45 PM
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test run with HOT and VOT pulled went well, B+ came up, filter caps seemed ok, tuner audio working. I don't have a yoke handy, if I did I was going to just hook it up and then meter the HV and see what happens. I will just install it in the set, just about as easy, maybe later tonight.
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#35
11-09-2012, 06:40 PM
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had a bit of fireworks by the service switch, seems like one of the terminals has a bit of a short to ground, maybe a carbon path, I was tempted to just let it burn out, but will replace it. may have one in my stash if not looks like something rat shack may have otherwise off to the surplus store again.
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#37
11-10-2012, 04:29 PM
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looking good. color working sweep looks good, fly not getting hot. just a fast check. have dirty pot on color but so far so good. the Colorama CRT that did not test very well seem to be making a pretty good pic. will work on it some more and get some pics.
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#38
11-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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did a few house keeping chores on it today, 1st pulled all the tubes and sprayed on contact cleaner, and cleaned the contacts in the wafer switch type tuner. I am not a big fan of the wafer switch types as I find it harder to clean them, but I do like the way the fine tuning works, it has individual plastic screws that move around with the tuner, pushing on a single lever that fine tunes. I find this mech a bit hardier than the little gears and tuning slugs inside the channel coils on the turret types. Cleaned the pots in the front as well, they were a little bit touchy. I have been using a product called slick stuff for years, has a strong citric smell, seems to work very well (does not hurt carbon pots). its a cleaner and lubricant.
Last thing was I cut the 3a3 filament leads down. I had them full length from the new fly, which was about 3" too long, resulting in the lead coming up so high that they nearly touched the plate lead of the 3a3. I noticed a tiny waft of smoke on startup from under the fly, my guess is its the big power resistor near the choke. the term strip looks fully baked (as they all do) and the wires show charred insulation right at the strip. I know I should replace the wire and sand the term strip so I can get a good connection, but for now I will leave it be. Its all orig parts wise and I see no reason at this time to go changing anything. the only part change has been to cut out the AC line cap. did not replace it just cut it out so it would not explode on me. Last edited by DaveWM; 11-11-2012 at 05:50 PM.
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#39
11-12-2012, 12:58 PM
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decided to go a head and change out the .0082 cap in the feedback loop of the vert osc. this cap is always weak, and I did notice the vert was a bit lacking. While at it I will replace the .001 cap on the vert primary as well. Its a 2kv and I have no good way of testing it.
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#40
11-12-2012, 02:28 PM
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looking good. the vert center was way off, the height and lin set up easy. will get a better video feed and get some pics. After that I will try the 128v tap. have not checked the new fly for current setup need to do that 1st. HV was right on the nose at 24kv with good regulation.
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#41
11-12-2012, 02:53 PM
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wow, nice pic. based on the way the CRT tested I was not expecting much, popped in the forbidden planet (I miss Anne) and was stunned by how nice it looked. had to touch up the focus, but that was easy, and its very sharp without being at either end of the range. Guess I got the focus coil hook up right. there is still a tiny bit of purity setup needed, but considering this set has no auto degausse figured I would start with that. I use my variac on the DG coil, its just a lot easier than having to move it back. I did not even touch the dynamic converge just a very minor static (which will prob be goofed up if I end up adj the purity). this chassis really required so little work, I wonder why it was taken out of service (and the fly harvested). Oh and the controls including the tuner are MUCH nicer after having been cleaned. Considering what I paid for it (nothing) and the fact that I happened to have an extra fly, I have to consider this one of my better scores.
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#44
11-13-2012, 10:06 AM
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this one had no problems at all but for the missing fly, was lucky I had an extra that was a bolt in replacement. the only other thing I plan to do is add a single term strip to the chassis and bring out the cathode from the HOT to it. that will make checking the HOT current easy. I would like to add a 'HI-LO' ac voltage switch but that may be taking things a bit far. I just don't get why they went thru the trouble of tapping the primary of the PT and then did not bother to make it easy to switch. In later chassis like the 16 i know there was at least a term strip that could be accessed from the top of the chassis to move a jumper around. I could mount a two lug term strip one with the 117 and one with the 128 then have a jumper to select, but the idea of the AC up on the top of the chassis scares me a bit.
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#45
11-13-2012, 01:03 PM
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drilled a small hole in the chassis near the back, attached a small spade connector, then used a jumper from the HOT to connect it. I clipped the orig 3-6 ground wire but just bent it down out of the way. Now checking HOT current will be very easy.
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