My CTC9 made it! :)

[Jonathan]

Well guys,

I'm glad to say that my CTC9 "Abbott" made it, $280, plus $462 freight later. It was worth every penny. The set looks as if it was someone exposed to moisture, as there is rust on the chassis frame and some sort of coating on the outer cone of the picture tube is cracking and flaking away. It was stored in a shed for 30 years in LA weather. It honestly is a beautiful set though. It looks like an Abbott more than the blonder Felton. For the life of me I can't find the damn power switch/volume control, where is it?

Instead of trying to turn it on, I pulled out the chassis and got a good look at everything. Inside, everything is intact and clean, and the wires are in good condition. I removed the HV cage and the flyback looks quite healthy, as well as everything else in it.

After working on this set for a while, I realize hoe dangerous these early color sets really are. Not only do you have up to 21kV anode voltages, you have 5000lbs of atmasphere pushing down on all directions on the 21CYP22A CRT. I am taking extra care around the CRT so not only don't I die, but I still have a good CRT. BTW, do 21CYP22A tubes go bad in any way?

Also, the capacitors. Does this set contain mostly molded paper capacitors? They are reddish brown, with typical markings of a paper cap, but have a short vertical line on one end? Does this indicate the foil side? Most paper capacitors have a verical line that goes around the foil side of the capacitor body, but in this case, these are paper?

For now, I'm going to order a photofact and do some more research before I stick my soldering gun into the chassis and damage something.

Thanks.

Jonathan

[Jonathan]

Also, from what I read, the 21CYP22A has orangish-looking reds, so to solve the problem the red drive has to be increased thus killing the red gun faster. Also, from what I've read, the 21FBP22 and 21FJP22 are the best in terms of color.

Also, are the X-ray emission really a problem? The whole case is made of metal, and the back cover has reflective material on ine side of it. Should I be careful when I power it up?

Thanks.

Jonathan

[blue_lateral]

Congratulations!

I just went back and looked at the picture in the other thread. A fine looking set.

The Abbott link didnt work for me at all. You can't go by the color in the brochures, though. I have the carcass of an "Atherton", and it's brown or dark red or something. The one in the brochure looks really blonde. Isn't the power/volume the center of the concentric thing below the channel knob?

Are these the reddish brown capacitors the "Good-All" ones? Someone over on the TekScopes list led me to believe these are a lot more reliable than black beauties. I guess that doesnt say a lot. I got the impression they're not all bad. I don't know if theyre paper. I guess they could have plastic in-between the foil like an orange drop.

I think the x-ray thing happens when you have no HV regulation. You would also have an unwatchable picture....

Red is driven the hardest on all (almost all?) color sets of this period. It's just a smaller difference on sets with the brighter (orange?) phosphor. Apparently there were some tubes where the red phosphor was strong enough that the green was actually the weakest. I have never seen one. If this happens on a set with only 2 drive controls, you have to swap the red and green cathode leads to get it to track.

Is your 21cyp22 actually an A?

John

[Jonathan]

blue_lateral,

I'll get more info later on what set I actually have. It is a 21CYP22A from RCA. I'm having the hardest time trying to find the datasheet for it, as google doesn't know where it is. Since the picture is dim and out of focus, I'm going to recapp this set and check resistors of the drive circuits just as I was told. I know the electrolytics are going to go, but I'm not sure about those caps. They look like orange dips, but are reddish-brown.

Thanks.

Jonathan

[Jonathan]

I have a Felton. It's an RCA 210-CT-836. Service Manual is 1959 No. T6. I wonder who would have a copy of an RCA service manual 1959 No. T6. Does anyone?

Thanks.

[yagosaga]

Originally Posted by Jonathan

I have a Felton. It's an RCA 210-CT-836. Service Manual is 1959 No. T6. I wonder who would have a copy of an RCA service manual 1959 No. T6. Does anyone?

I don't have the RCA manual but the Sams for RCA CTC9A, B, F, H, N, P. It is a paper copy which I got from Steven Kissinger. I can send you a paper copy of it but you have to pay the shipping costs from Germany. Otherwise ask Steve K. for a copy.
Before you start with recapping and so on, please check the crt voltages. crt anode voltage should be 19.5 kv, check it with a high voltage probe (tolerance: 15.5. thu 21 kv). There are two anode connections. Between both there is a resistor with 56 K. Check it. If this resistor had changed its value you will have a bad focus and a low brightness of the picture. Touch the anode connection first with a grounded cable to prevent a shock hazard.
Don't change this resistor with a "normal" resistor, it has to be a resistor for high voltages.
Check the focus voltage (pin 9 of the crt). It has to be 3 thru 3.5 kv. What do you read here?
The other voltages for the crt are: 320 thru 350 vdc for the cathodes (pin 4, 5, 13).
Grid: 580 v for green (pin 6), 280 v for blue (pin 12) and 230 v for red (pin 2).
Screen: 560 v thru 710 v (green, blue red, pin 7, 11, 3). These values might be widely vary, depends on the ageing of the crt.
Like you can see the voltages for the red gun are obvious higher (kathode: lower) than the voltages for the other guns. This indicates that the 21CYP22 needs a higher beam current for the red color than the other guns, even it has a orange-red color which looks brighter than the pure red color.
Good luck and enjoy the time of fixing the set. I think nothing else is more exciting than this time when you hesitate and you don't know what might be the result of your work.

[Steve D.]

Originally Posted by Jonathan

Well guys,

I'm glad to say that my CTC9 "Abbott" made it, $280, plus $462 freight later. It was worth every penny. The set looks as if it was someone exposed to moisture, as there is rust on the chassis frame and some sort of coating on the outer cone of the picture tube is cracking and flaking away. It was stored in a shed for 30 years in LA weather. It honestly is a beautiful set though. It looks like an Abbott more than the blonder Felton. For the life of me I can't find the damn power switch/volume control, where is it?

Instead of trying to turn it on, I pulled out the chassis and got a good look at everything. Inside, everything is intact and clean, and the wires are in good condition. I removed the HV cage and the flyback looks quite healthy, as well as everything else in it.

After working on this set for a while, I realize hoe dangerous these early color sets really are. Not only do you have up to 21kV anode voltages, you have 5000lbs of atmasphere pushing down on all directions on the 21CYP22A CRT. I am taking extra care around the CRT so not only don't I die, but I still have a good CRT. BTW, do 21CYP22A tubes go bad in any way?

Also, the capacitors. Does this set contain mostly molded paper capacitors? They are reddish brown, with typical markings of a paper cap, but have a short vertical line on one end? Does this indicate the foil side? Most paper capacitors have a verical line that goes around the foil side of the capacitor body, but in this case, these are paper?

For now, I'm going to order a photofact and do some more research before I stick my soldering gun into the chassis and damage something.

Thanks.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Congratulations on your roundie. The "Abbott" table model 210-CTR-845 was only available with remote control. in Mahogany finish. The "Felton" table model 210-CT-835 (Mahogany), (last 2 numbers refer to finish), was non-remote in 4 finishes. So, no remote, it's the CTC-9 "Felton."

-Steve D.

[Eric H]

Hey Jonathan



:rofl: :rofl:

[bgadow]

Personally, I wouldn't worry about those brown caps. If they are what I'm thinking of they seem to be as reliable as orange drops. Do they look just like a different colored orange drop? Probably a Mallory or Cornell-Dubiler clone of the Sprague caps. I'd say a -9 would be old enough to go ahead and just change out the electrolytics.

[blue_lateral]

Jonathan-

I have a manual published by electronic technician magazine. I has a schematic and most of the setup and alignment info for the 9. I doubt it is complete, but it's better than nothing. I think the info came from the real RCA manual. The pages are huge. I could probably scan it in sections, but it might be easier to xerox it in sections and send you a paper copy.

PM me if you want or need this.

John

P.S. caps - if theyre shiny blobs with radial leads (look like orange drops, just a different color) I would bet my lunch they're mylar.

[Jonathan]

Hello guys,

Well, Once I get this silly camera fixed, I'll upload some photos today. The seller was even so kind as to provide the photofact inside the cabinet as well as write down the voltages normally found on the CRT pins. Page 16 of photofact 495-1 has photos of the horizontal and vertical PCBs. The shiny orange drop-looking caps you see are the ones on the chassis of the set I have. These seem reliable just like you guys say. There are others, a couple wax/paper caps, as well as some axial electrolytics and some other axial caps that don't look like the molded orange drip variety. I'll change these as well.

Also, how do I tune UHF? Is it the dial that rotates freely around the VHF tuner? Fine tuning is the little knob above it. And where is the power/volume control on this Felton? :P

Jonathan

[Steve D.]

Jonathan,

The color control knob also contains the on-off, volume control. It is a stacked pot with the color on the inside ring and the outer knob controlling the on-off, volume. Not sure how the UHF is operated on this model. Is your set UHF equipped? The model # would have a "U" ie: 210-CT-835U at the end to indicate a uhf model.

-Steve D.

[Jonathan]

Steve,

Thanks, I see it now.

I have some pics taken with a hacked one-time-use digital camera. This camera, despite costing $11, really takes good pics. Anyway, here they are:

Electrolytics and Video IF PCB
Underside of chassis, notice the long yellow delay line
Underside, notice the black axial electrolytic, the red drop cap from Sprague, and the glass bulb, which is the colorburst crystal

I'm going to change the black electrolytic as well as the vertical cans, but the Sprague red drop-looking caps, are they usually pretty decent? Also, can I change out the colorburst crystal with a motern one and have more stable color or won't it make a difference?

Close up of previous pic
close up of upper part of underside, notice the long yellow delay line, colorburst crystal, and black axial electrolytics
Wider view of chassis underside
Top side of chassis
Close-up of chassis topside, notice the "Elemenco" paper/wax caps
Close-up of tuner, volume/power/color control, notice the "Elemenco" paper/wax caps
Close-up of back section. notice the tan butterscotch colored electrolytic on the PCB next to the square power transformer
Close up of front section, notice the flyback in good-looking contition, and the red drops connected to the flyback windings, do these need replacing?

This is a VHF only set I think, but it has a "U" on the dial, and the outer dial rotates I think, but I'm honestly not sure. It definately is a Felton though.

Thanks.

Jonathan

[bgadow]

the "u" is there in case you added UHF, that is where you would tune for it. The first non-UHF set I had, I about wore out the fine tuning dial thinking it would get me something!

Those red drops should be fine. The "Elmenco" caps don't hold up to bad, in my experience, but if you can replace them go ahead and do it. As for the crystal, I only have one set that uses one, and had never seen one before. Its in my CTC-12. Works just fine, in fact that set is one of my best performers. So I wouldn't touch it unless it proved bad.

When I replaced the electrolytics in my CTC-11, which looks simliar, the space was a little tight for fitting all the new ones below the chassis. But it can be done, just have to be creative. If you went with new cans (above chassis) thats not a problem but I've never done that, not sure how good a replacement you could get.

[nasadowsk]

If you've got the HV box cover (you *do* have it, right?), I wouldn't worry about X rays, and even without it, I wouldn't. My '7 can barely hit 25kv, and I don't think '9s were much better. I have a '16 with great regulation (and a Zenith of the era that can easily hit 30+kv) that can go higher.

You'd notice if the HV regulation stunk, and in an case, you're not like hugging the TV all the time, are you?