rca roundie in Washington

[rcaman]

the chassis and tube are seperate. the chassis is quite heavy. steve

[rcaman]

what kind of suv are you talking about. i have a 03 tahoe and it would not set up in it. steve

[Phil Nelson]

Transporting face down sounds like the way to go. I would remove knobs and supply padding, of course. If it's too heavy to lift intact, I guess I could remove the chassis to reduce the weight.

Still haven't heard from the owner whether we have a deal for sure. He seems to be one of those folks (like my Dad) who only checks email two or three times a week.

[bgadow]

I have a CTC-12 in a similiar style cabinet, a little narrower. My Dakota has a cap on it and the set would not go in standing up. It would just barely go in on its side. If all the bolts are tight it should ride fine.

[Phil Nelson]

Uff-da! After a long day of driving, my "new" color roundie is home.

It played fine, with a nice bright picture, just before I picked it up.

It took two strong men (the owner and his 83-year old Dad), plus me, to grunt it into the back of the SUV. Turned out, after three tries, that face-down was the only way it could possibly fit.

What fun. "Whoa-whoa-WHOOOAAA! You're gonna tear the headliner!!!" And so on.

Yes, we removed the knobs first and laid it on a bed of quilts & whatnot.

It's still crammed in the back of the SUV because my wife and her sister took off for an overnight trip and both of my able-bodied male offspring have escaped to college.

I can't come up with any scheme where I can get the danged thing out of the SUV on my own without [A] damaging the TV or [B] damaging my back or [C] damaging both.

Somebody told me that patience is a virtue, but it's hard to be patient when you have a new project sitting out in the carport :-)

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Phil Nelson]

OK, I slid it out the back of the truck with the aid of an old door, a wooly blanket, and some cardboard.

The cabinet needs a total refinish, but the picture doesn't look too shabby, considering the electronics haven't been touched in decades. (Sorry for the hasty snapshots.)

Phil Nelson

[Phil Nelson]

Oh -- and looking at the back of the chassis in daylight, I see a faint stamp with CTC-11C, so I guess it's not a CTC-10!

It's missing the channel indicator and one of the little bottom knobs. Looks like another dinky knob is missing from the ONE-SET FINE TUNE hole above the channel selector. Anybody got any spares? (I know, ha-ha, but you can't blame a guy for asking.)

[blue_lateral]

I need that same or similar fine-tuning knob for my ctc9. I haven't found anything that will even fit through the hole. It might be down to making one or something. Good luck.

John

[jstout66]

actually Moyers Electronics (1-800-577-6001) may have NOS knobs for it. Give em a call along with the model number. NICE set by the way!

[wcarroll]

Glad you got it home OK! Interesting that it is actually a CTC11 chassis... Is there any model number for the set on any of the labels or on the cabinet back?

[bgadow]

I knew you didn't have the patience to wait it out...I know I never do! Looks great!

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by wcarroll

Interesting that it is actually a CTC11 chassis... Is there any model number for the set on any of the labels or on the cabinet back?

The back is conveniently missing (of course). These photos show the front, what looks like a CTC11 stamp on the back of the chassis, and the label on the bottom of the cabinet shelf.

[wcarroll]

The SAMS for the CTC11 chassis shows three different part numbers for the contrast, brightness, vertical hold and horizontal hold knobs. I suppose that the differences are in color or trim depending on the model of the set. The part numbers are 109274, 107605, and 109571 in case you want to run them by Moyer's.

Your set looks a lot like "The Winfield", except for some differences in the feet on the cabinet. Does your CRT have the safety glass bonded directly to the tube?

Wes

[Phil Nelson]

Thanks for the tips on the knobs!

Re safety glass, there's no separate safety glass in front of the CRT, or any indication that there once was such a thing. Just the rounded CRT face poking out into the bezel. So perhaps the safety glass is bonded to the CRT. This is my first early-ish color set, so I don't have anything to compare it to.

Phil Nelson

[blue_lateral]

Your picture of the tube layout shows 21fjp22, which has a bonded glass. It should be frosted. Also common during this period is the 21fbp22, which is the same tube without the safety glass. They usually have a dark tinted, curved safety glass laid on the front of the tube with a black rubber or vinyl gasket. It looks lust like the front of the tube when installed, but isnt frosted.

John