#16
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Yep. The same rings true for any kind of collectable device. I collect 35mm and 70mm film prints. When the movie theaters started converting to digital projection at a rapid pace about 3-4 years ago I ended up picking up many of the same model projector that were headed for scrap metal recycling. There's really not much that can go wrong with a projector head short of gears wearing out over time and the intermittent movement wearing out and failing. Once that happens, the machine is useless. While finding a company that can machine gears is not terribly difficult, there are really no longer any companies left that have the tooling and expertise to manufacture parts and rebuild an intermittent. Hopefully the 4 intermittents I have will last the rest of my life.
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#17
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I don't think any one of us is 100% on the side of either of the two extreme examples I gave. I am certainly not suggesting that anyone should be looked down upon because they choose not to give things away at will. As I said in my last post "anyone is free to keep or share anything they see fit." There are things in my collection that I'm not offering up for grabs! What I am saying is that the more people we have in this hobby the better for all of us. I don't think I would be a tv collector if it weren't for the generosity of this community. When we let porthole fly's, Moto yokes, and spare 15GP22s go to others we keep people collecting and that infects others. Just this week I let go of another rare picture tube to another young collector because he needed it for a family set. This was no only my only spare, but it left me with a broken CRT in my set. Someday a 7EP4 will come around again and maybe then I'll have one to replace mine. In the meantime another collector will have the joy of watching a set that means a lot to him, and that means a lot to me to help him.
Sorry to go so off-topic. Moderators edit if you see fit.
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John |
#18
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Well I have known more than one radio collector anyway who has let $100K or more of incredibly rare sets molder to dust in leaky sheds and tents being unable to get highest eBay value for them. This is nothing that benefits people or is a matter of selfish there, it simply is a way some people think really. OTOH I've had dozens of near strangers help me and I have returned the favor as I can. I certainly have no intention of giving up on it before 2026 anyway. John H. |
#19
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I did a partial trade for my CT-100 with good 15GP22 this week. Why? Partially because I was rather ambivalent toward totally restoring it, partially because a potential move overseas would be complicated by a CT-100, but mostly because the individual that wound up with my set is hellbent on getting his 15G based set operational.
I also traded away a 1955 Hoffman Colorcaster. Why? Because the other collector seemed to like it more than I did, and he had something he was looking to get rid of that I wanted. In both of these trades, the other collectors and I walked away very happy. I can't think of anything better than that. I would rather be known for my generosity and willingness to help others when I can, than hoard sets and have them rot in my basement. I have found in my few short years in this hobby that my approach has paid off for me numerous times. To each his own I guess... |
#20
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Hey wait a minute, I think I do that
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John |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Mine live in the basement too, but it's a finished basement so they rot a little slower
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#22
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So did you watch the videos? The key is to not watch a set until catches fire. As soon as arcing is happening that is the time when you still have a chance to fix the FLY. Based on your resistance readings you may be too far gone but there is no reason not to investigate.
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#23
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jr |
#24
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In general, a 7JP4 won't sub all that well for a 7EP4, the difference in HV is too great. The 7EP4 needs about 2 or 3 kV, a 7JP4 is around 6 kV I think. A 5BP4 is a better sub, being electrically identical, despite the smaller screen, and actually cheaper than a 7JP4. A 7GP4 would probably work though...
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#25
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I'm a stickler for originality. I've seen 2 7EP4's for sale in 5 years so another one is due to come up in 3 years or so.
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John |
Audiokarma |
#26
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I watched every video containing the word flyback on YouTube before even beginning to restore the set. I repeatedly followed the instructions given- encasing the flyback in non-acidic silicone twice. It suppressed the arcing but not internally. John H. |
#27
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I think another option would be to use low heat and a desiccant to further draw the moisture out, although I think Shango's hot wax is the best. I suggest you remove the silicone and examine the paper windings. When you orig did the silicone did you note any black marks showing burns on the paper insulator? |
#28
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On my CTC-4 the wax on the fly was fine so I never touched it of added any silicone, but I was careful to have the H osc., and drive good before connecting the output tube to the fly...Once I did I IMMEDIATELY adjusted the linearity control for minimum cathode current.
IHMO using silicone and such on a fly is something you keep in your back pocket till it appears to be needed.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#29
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Slightly off topic but still relevant, an experienced RCA technician once told me that when you power up a TV for the first time, you want to let it run in short increments. 5 or 10 minutes at a time, then 20 to 30 minutes at a time. This will help to slowly cook out the moisture content in the flyback. It's a much better than turning the set on and leaving it on and all the moisture causes the flyback to arc and stuff.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan |
#30
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Audiokarma |
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