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#31
10-04-2010, 11:04 PM
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Yeah, that's a molded paper cap. Typically, if I see one of those with a value of say, .001 mfd, I go ahead and replace it during recapping. I never understood that-why they made paper caps in the shape of micas-then you see things like molded paper .001 and a tubular .001 in the same set, same voltage rating. Wouldn't it have been easier to go with a single vendor for that one cap value?
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#32
10-04-2010, 11:38 PM
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Upon closer inspection that appears to be a replacement so maybe it was a tubular to begin with.
It's C37 - part of the vertical integrator along with C38 just above and to the left. Both are 0.01 on the schematic. Unfortunately, C37 is missing from the Riders parts list. I suppose 600v is a good guess for the voltage. I bet 0.05 instead of 0.01 wasn't doing the vertical any good! It turns out that what they call 'molded paper' caps in the parts list, are the bumblebees. Last edited by bandersen; 10-08-2010 at 11:05 PM.
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#33
10-05-2010, 11:21 AM
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I did more poking around and found a few more replaced caps. The soldering job was good, but most of the values are off. For example a 0.062 uF in the vertical sweep was replaced with a 0.05 and an associated resistor changed from 82K to 47K.
I plan to put everything back according to the schematic. Parts are on the way from Mouser...
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#34
10-05-2010, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
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#35
10-05-2010, 02:01 PM
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The 814 chassis is pretty similar. Tonight I'll take a look at my Sams for the 814 and see how similar it is. You may well be able to put the 814 into the 810 cabinet.
If for any reason that doesn't work, I've got a great 810 chassis that I have already fully restored and works perfectly, and a very crummy cabinet that I'm thinking of restoring. If for some reason your 814 won't go into your 810 cabinet, it would sure seem to make sense discussing whether my 810 chassis and your 810 cabinet shouldn't find their way to each other, either under your ownership (I'm perfectly happy to sell my working chassis) or mine (if you want to sell your cabinet). Interested? Tom
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#37
10-07-2010, 09:04 PM
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Fedex managed to lose my package of parts from Mouser
 I order from them all the time and have never had a problem before. The refinsihing supplies were also shipped using Fedex and are supposed to arrive Saturday. Hopefully, they'll make it here otherwise I'll move onto another project... Last edited by bandersen; 10-07-2010 at 09:12 PM.
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#38
10-07-2010, 09:19 PM
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How bizarre. The guy who lives below me just rang my doorbell and handed me my package.
I had spoken to him a few minutes earlier and he didn't have it. He says he opened his door to let a friend in and it was sitting on our front steps. Maybe it was delivered to the wrong address and someone just dropped it off without ringing either of our doorbells 
Last edited by bandersen; 10-08-2010 at 01:51 AM.
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#39
10-07-2010, 11:40 PM
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These UPZ series Nichicons will fit inside the old cans nicely
 Small size, high capacity, high voltage and rated for 105C. One of them should be 10uF, but Mouser was out so I went with 18uF. The two black ones are low voltage higher capacity so I used a different series of Nichicons still rated for 105C though. 
Last edited by bandersen; 10-07-2010 at 11:45 PM.
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#40
10-07-2010, 11:58 PM
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Hmmm. I wonder if I'm missing the HV cage ?
I can see tapped holes around the HV area that might secure one. No obvious discoloration or marks though. Perhaps it was removed long, long ago ? Last edited by bandersen; 10-08-2010 at 12:02 AM.
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#41
10-08-2010, 12:52 AM
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Yes, your HV cage is missing. I parted out one 810 chassis several months ago, but didn't save that part...
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#42
10-08-2010, 09:04 PM
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Aw, nuts! I posted in the classifieds - hopefully someone has one. Otherwise, I'll fabricate something.
Here's a dry run of the new veneer.  I'll let this diluted glue dry overnight and iron it on tomorrow. 
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#43
10-10-2010, 02:52 AM
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I'm making good progress on the cabinet this weekend.
First up, I stripped it using a citrus gel stripper by Zinsser.  Then, a liquid stripper and steel wool to get any remaining finish.  Than, a neutralizer.  I coated both the top substrate and the new veneer with a couple layers of diluted Titebond II wood glue. After it dried overnight, I ironed it on and trimmed the excess.  I'm going to use grain filler this time. I've used multiple coats of shellac and sanding before, but this Mahogany veneer has a really open grain and it takes forever. The Behlen water based stuff is easy to apply, no fumes and cleans up easily.  I worked it in across the grain with an old credit card. I'll let it dry for a while and sand it lightly.  Finally, my toner lacquer showed up. Van Dyke Walnut is a great match as I had hoped  
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#44
10-10-2010, 03:23 PM
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The logo polished up better than I expected
I'm not quite sure what to do about the control panel though. It seems like the top half is darker. Maybe it has some toner lacquer sprayed on it  Any thoughts ? 
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#45
10-10-2010, 04:35 PM
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The top half of the control panel originally had a matte brass finish, which indeed looks a little darker. The rest was originally plated bright. One of my panels is in pretty good condition so it is easy to see what the original state was.
I'll probably use some coarse polishing compount or scouring powder on the matte part of mine, and the mask that off while polishing the rest with some fine polishing compound.
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