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  #1  
Old 11-13-2017, 02:44 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
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Raytheon porthole M1105 mousehouse

I bought this set from Adam a couple WARCI swapmeets back. Based on the condition and some of the things I had to fix I can see why he sold it.



I believe it is the 1105 model the back says it's the 04 or 05....Strangely enough the sam's for that model does not match mine but another sam's (IIRC 114-10) does match it. There are apparently two chassis versions that were fitted into that cabinet the 3 knob pencil box and ~5 knob pencil box versions which had different front control covers. Mine is a three knob the ETF has the 5 knob. (you can see mine VS theirs in that order below)



The set has had considerable internal rodent damage. Lots of rust, chewed wires, caps peaking coils, and damaged tube sockets, bad transformers, etc. This was one of those resto jobs where "just when you think your out it keeps pulling you back in".



Ever ponder what it would be like to use a live mouse as a stress ball (I'm starting to)? ...Between this set and my Dumont mousehouse I've been lets say a little more annoyed by those varmints than usual.

I started with a recap, and found I had to consult the service lit for 3 caps that had been chewed beyond recognition. upon power up I had 10KV and a nice bright horizontal line. I tried connecting the vert grids to heater voltage and got deflection so I removed the confirmed open vert blocking osc trans and subbed one from a philco split chassis (it was running at half freq, but good enough to check the RF/IF chain). I next went after the IF system, The B+ and heater were arcing and shorting internally in the 4th IF socket and the contacts were corroded to the point of breaking if looked at cross-eyed. I normally try HARD to avoid replacing or disturbing IF/tuner parts, but this socket was DONE. I replaced that IF socket (a resistor that drifted from the arcing and some other passive parts on that socket that crumbled on disassembly) and had to take one of the only good pins from that socket and use it to fix a bad socket pin on the cathode of the 2nd IF...This got me video through it. A replacement audio output trans and socket cleaning got me sound. Now it was time to deal with residual problems The vert heater was intermittent and I had to swap the pin contact from another octal socket to fix it, the chewed open video peaking coils (that I had jumpered) got replaced with ones from the Philco split-chassis parts chassis (as better a better temporary, but worked well enough to stay). I also opened up the original vert osc trans and (crudely) fixed the open, thus getting vert back on freq. And lastly lubed up the continuous tuner mech. It was working great at that point, but still reeked strongly of mice and had some nesting material, and crap left topside so I pulled the CRT and most of the tubes to get the stank off of it. The yoke wiring/plug was hidden by chassis/nest and it was so chewed that I'm lucky it did not short.

After cleaning I powered it up to a dark screen, arcing on IF sockets (from residual cleaner), and no reception. The next day the raster was restored by changing a drifted resistor and flaky osc tube. Reception was still dead. Signal tracing and checks revealed the detector/DC restorer socket had went open in multiple places from the cleaning...Mostly from just removing and reinstalling the tube (yes it was that fragile from corrosion ). I replaced that socket and scraped away an intermittent arcing path on one of the other IF sockets and got reception back. I sorta thought I was done but I did not like that I could not tune my ch13 modulator, and so re aligned the tuner by eye. I prepped the cabinet for the chassis and then noticed one of the tuner slugs fell out and popped it back in, and put the chassis in the cabinet, only to find I had to pull the chassis to readjust the tuner again, and clean a spot I missed inside the safety glass....After that I finally got it done.

The cabinet still needs a shine some minor veneer patching and touch-ups but I'll save most of that for later...

Somehow I half expect my clean 21CT55 is going to be less of a pain in the but than this simpler, but more beat up Raytheon.
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  #2  
Old 11-13-2017, 02:54 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Thank you for saving me from buying that set.

Nice to see you have it working.

.
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2017, 03:17 PM
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Why are you using that set with those original paper capacitors in it?? Tube is adjusted wrong. Front of tube should fill mask.

Watch out on their AGC circuits. The wires are rubber. HV , high current in it. It gets the pulse from the flyback. They made many changes on that circuit. I have that model set. Can you send me a schematic on how that circuit is wired, along with sinc circuit on yours? Mine's a mess...
Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2017, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Cahill View Post
Why are you using that set with those original paper capacitors in it?? Tube is adjusted wrong. Front of tube should fill mask.

Watch out on their AGC circuits. The wires are rubber. HV , high current in it. It gets the pulse from the flyback. They made many changes on that circuit. I have that model set. Can you send me a schematic on how that circuit is wired, along with sinc circuit on yours? Mine's a mess...
Thanks.
There are no paper caps left(!)...The under chassis shots are from before the recap was finished to show the mouse damage. The raster fills the mask, the video is letter boxed, the test pattern is also bordered by some black video on all sides because it is from a crappy test pattern DVD that was a free download. On a proper 4:3 signal it fills the screen fine...I'm just too lazy/busy to supply it with such a signal and take a picture.

All the wires in mine were plastic and fine (except the ones that got mouse chewed). AGC works fine on mine too.
I'll try to take some pictures of the schematic for you later.
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:25 PM
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I have a Truetone with that chassis, it was also a Mouse House, they only got on top though, filled the back of the set to the top of the tubes with Apricot pits and chewed through the two transformers on the back, Vert Out and a Choke as I recall.

An easy set to get running though.
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Old 11-13-2017, 07:25 PM
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Zenith26kc20 Zenith26kc20 is offline
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I have that same set! What made mice love them? Mine is a mess! They ate part of the yoke! I have a complete set (except for what they ate)! Do yours have the inductor tuned tuner? I had to drench mine in WD40 to make it move. Mine has high voltage, no vertical (open eaten yoke).
Lots of rust! Filthy when I picked it up on the street! Good CRT!
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:27 PM
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I had a neat Airline with a good tube, and, a chassis full of rust. I rebuilt it, then tried it on my variac. At about half way I heard the vertical. Then, a snap, and, B plus crashed, went to negative, and, at 225 - volts, I gave up. I found out flyback was shorted. I had heard an arcing sound when voltage suddenly crashed.... There was a boost cap of10 mf 350 volts. It kept going negative. A lot of checking, and, no good Then, rusty strap on picture tube broke, tube slid out, and, POW. Neck broke off, and, rest of tube broke on the floor. I gave up, stripped it, and, junked the set.
I have the same model as your M-105, now. It intermittently played, then went to a raster
The rubber AGC wire going to flyback was rotted, and, shorted. After a long time, I found a wire. But, wiring on agc circuit is qu9te different....
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Last edited by Bill Cahill; 11-13-2017 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 11-13-2017, 09:50 PM
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Dang those varmints! But a nice save. And thanks for reminding me I need to resume work on my own 1104 . It's only coming up on 2 years since I started it.

BTW I really think you should have restuffed the varmint gnawed capacitors.
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Old 11-15-2017, 11:34 PM
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Sorry for neglecting the thread. I've been busy ...

I just got my 17" 10L43 predicta back together, it only took a recap and fixing someone's butcher job on the CRT/speaker harnesses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenith26kc20 View Post
I have that same set! What made mice love them? Mine is a mess! They ate part of the yoke! I have a complete set
(except for what they ate)! Do yours have the inductor tuned tuner? I had to drench mine in WD40 to make it move. Mine has high voltage, no vertical (open eaten yoke).
Lots of rust! Filthy when I picked it up on the street! Good CRT!
Why mice love them: Un-screened hole on bottom of cabinet for easy under chassis entry, back does not cover convenient access path on either side of the chassis...If they don't have to chew their way in, and a cat (or other predator) can't fit in then there may as well be a sign "mouse community center" on any dormant set in an environment that has mice.
Yeah inductive tuner in mine. It moved fine, but needed a LOT of help to switch between low and high band till I lubed the band switch...It still is a bit sticky, but so much better than it was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
Dang those varmints! But a nice save. And thanks for reminding me I need to resume work on my own 1104 . It's only coming up on 2 years since I started it.

BTW I really think you should have restuffed the varmint gnawed capacitors.
That would be like putting Rosie O'Donnell in a thong...Waay too little hidden.

Before I pulled the chassis I was considering a restuff. I was imagining a clean original chassis with all original caps and when I found a rusty mouse mess with mid 50's molded plastic replacement caps and replacement tubular lytics with 3X the needed lead length used on crude installation...Seeing that I decided, screw it, it is neither practical nor possible to restuff this mess...Except maybe the chassis getting restuffed back into the cabinet with no resto for disposal...I'm glad(ish) that I abandoned both restuff ideas.
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Last edited by Electronic M; 11-16-2017 at 12:12 AM. Reason: accidently Posted before done writing.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Cahill View Post
I have the same model as your M-105, now. It intermittently played, then went to a raster
The rubber AGC wire going to flyback was rotted, and, shorted. After a long time, I found a wire. But, wiring on agc circuit is qu9te different....
The non-applicable 5 knob pencil box version is on the ETF (sam's 94-8)http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/R...-sams-94-8.pdf

The close (but apparently not correct) version I used during the resto is sam's 161-10 (click pictures then click them again for full size).


Tonight while sorting the ~1.2 decades long sam's library I recently bought I noticed there is a correct folder for my set: Sam's 141-11 (figures I find it 2 days AFTER the resto is done ).


It appears they made sets for other brands as well. This Coronado in Sam's 145-5 (which I have a duplicate copy of) seems to have the same chassis as my Raytheon.
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:17 AM
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Awww, Chit ! NOW I'm wantin' myself a Raytheon...Rotsa Ruck findin one down here in Heifer Junction...
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic

It appears they made sets for other brands as well. This Coronado in Sam's 145-5 (which I have a duplicate copy of) seems to have the same chassis as my Raytheon.
Made by Belmont whom sold that chassis (and variants) to everyone and their brother, well into mid 50's.

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 11-16-2017 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
Awww, Chit ! NOW I'm wantin' myself a Raytheon...Rotsa Ruck findin one down here in Heifer Junction...
You're not the only one ...A friend contacted me after the swap meet I got it at sayin someone they know collects Raytheon and wanted it $200 bad sight unseen....I did not want to sell it and later I was told they would pay $300 for it (at the time a working one on d'bay was $325). After the offers when I opened it to find the mouse damage, I nearly dropped the resto to sell it. If the one on the bay is still there and ya got money burning a hole in your pocket, then why not?.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
Made by Belmont whom sold that chassis (and variants) to everyone and their brother, well into mid 50's.
Yeah, I think I saw a Silvertone, and another rebadge of it in Sam's.
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