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  #46  
Old 02-14-2017, 09:11 PM
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Tom Albrecht Tom Albrecht is offline
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That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.
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  #47  
Old 02-14-2017, 10:08 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Albrecht View Post
That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.
Yeah, you're right. Overthought that.
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  #48  
Old 02-16-2017, 09:54 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I started putting things back together today.
I cleaned and painted the volume pot and cover because the tin plating was well worn in areas. This pot is in full view with the chassis out of the cabinet so I wanted it to look good.
One of the wires had a very old piece of friction tape on it and sure enough the wire was spliced. I cut it off at the splice and followed it down into the chassis. I cut the wire and spliced in about a 4 inch piece of wire. This way the original wire came out of the top of the chassis while the extra length wire that was spliced is hidden under the chassis. If you look close into the tuner hole, you'll see some black heat shrink where one end of the wire was spliced. The other end is just inside the chassis. I used some clear heat shrink over the fraying cloth insulation on the pot element and wiper wires to neaten them up.





Next up was the Brightness and Picture (contrast) pot. Pretty tight quarters. Black heat shrink was used here because the wires are hidden under the box.





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  #49  
Old 02-20-2017, 09:30 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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It's been a few days since the last post.

I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking.



Here are some pictures of sections of the wiring underneath. Not very good and low skill level of the person who attempted to do a previous restoration on this TV. Disc caps where tubulars and micas go! He used the hook method when he wasn't winding the lead on.





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  #50  
Old 02-20-2017, 09:38 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Here is a picture of the installation of the new E-Caps. I started with C128 and then did C127. While I was at it, I decided to redo the entire area. Much better now! C116 is in left hand side of the first picture. I cleaned the H and V Hold pots and buffed up the shafts, then oiled them.



Here is a picture of C132 after re-wiring.

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  #51  
Old 02-20-2017, 09:48 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post

I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking.

Hope you used high temp paint...If it is anything like a 630 chassis those power resistors get hot enough to solder with! The heat shrink is probably going to degrade after ~100 hours run time too.

Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.
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  #52  
Old 02-20-2017, 09:50 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Hope you used high temp paint...If it is anything like a 630 chassis those power resistors get hot enough to solder with! The heat shrink is probably going to degrade after ~100 hours run time too.

Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.
Rust-Oleum BBQ paint.
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  #53  
Old 02-21-2017, 01:44 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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As I usually do, I ID each component with a little piece of masking tape according to the schematic/parts list. This helps me ID the parts and their location. Also alerts me to any irregularities that might be present. Here is a picture of the entire underneath followed by each quadrant.









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  #54  
Old 02-21-2017, 05:31 PM
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M3-SRT8 M3-SRT8 is offline
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Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.
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  #55  
Old 02-21-2017, 08:23 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by M3-SRT8 View Post
Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.
Wow, OK. I'll redo them with out the heat shrink. Thanks for the heads up.
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  #56  
Old 02-21-2017, 08:29 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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This evening I reinstalled the yoke and CRT wiring. When hooking up the yellow CRT wire to a terminal strip, I found this. First off you know that I clean off all excess solder and old component leads. Then install the wiring and components. After cleaning off the terminal, I had what looked like a small ball of solder left. I tried to pry it loose, but that didn't work. Upon real close inspection, I saw that it was a clipped off lead soldered to the lower portion of the lug! I used some solder wick to free it from the lug. It was very close to the chassis, very close. I don't know if that was there before I messed with it or not. In any case I'm glad I found it!



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  #57  
Old 02-21-2017, 08:33 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I thought I'd show you another use of clear heat shrink. I use it over wires that have been damaged by either the soldering iron or by close proximity to a soldered joint. I know I could have used black heat shrink here. But it works very well on the other wires.

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  #58  
Old 02-21-2017, 11:00 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I redid the resistor and capacitor network between the Sync Separator and the Vertical Oscillator simply because it was very close to the section I finished yesterday and it drove me nuts every time I looked at it. So I made it nice!

Here is a before and after shot.



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  #59  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:49 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Tonight I worked on the HV section. After removing all the old resistors and HV wires I cleaned them.

I installed 2 Watt resistors and some new 20Kv wire. I installed the Flyback and tube socket back onto the chassis along with the stationary HV cage. I have to wire the HV section to the chassis next.

Here are some pics before they went back onto the chassis.







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  #60  
Old 02-23-2017, 10:25 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Well, the doorknob cap is bad. That's the 2nd one I've found recently. The other one was on my Admiral 14R12.

It's supposed to be 500pf and it measures out to 36pf. The docs doesn't list a voltage. But the schematic shows 7.5Kv HV. I would think I would need at least a 10Kv rating.



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