#46
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That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.
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#47
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#48
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I started putting things back together today.
I cleaned and painted the volume pot and cover because the tin plating was well worn in areas. This pot is in full view with the chassis out of the cabinet so I wanted it to look good. One of the wires had a very old piece of friction tape on it and sure enough the wire was spliced. I cut it off at the splice and followed it down into the chassis. I cut the wire and spliced in about a 4 inch piece of wire. This way the original wire came out of the top of the chassis while the extra length wire that was spliced is hidden under the chassis. If you look close into the tuner hole, you'll see some black heat shrink where one end of the wire was spliced. The other end is just inside the chassis. I used some clear heat shrink over the fraying cloth insulation on the pot element and wiper wires to neaten them up. Next up was the Brightness and Picture (contrast) pot. Pretty tight quarters. Black heat shrink was used here because the wires are hidden under the box. |
#49
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It's been a few days since the last post.
I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking. Here are some pictures of sections of the wiring underneath. Not very good and low skill level of the person who attempted to do a previous restoration on this TV. Disc caps where tubulars and micas go! He used the hook method when he wasn't winding the lead on. |
#50
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Here is a picture of the installation of the new E-Caps. I started with C128 and then did C127. While I was at it, I decided to redo the entire area. Much better now! C116 is in left hand side of the first picture. I cleaned the H and V Hold pots and buffed up the shafts, then oiled them.
Here is a picture of C132 after re-wiring. |
Audiokarma |
#51
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Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#52
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#53
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#54
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Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.
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#55
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Wow, OK. I'll redo them with out the heat shrink. Thanks for the heads up.
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Audiokarma |
#56
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This evening I reinstalled the yoke and CRT wiring. When hooking up the yellow CRT wire to a terminal strip, I found this. First off you know that I clean off all excess solder and old component leads. Then install the wiring and components. After cleaning off the terminal, I had what looked like a small ball of solder left. I tried to pry it loose, but that didn't work. Upon real close inspection, I saw that it was a clipped off lead soldered to the lower portion of the lug! I used some solder wick to free it from the lug. It was very close to the chassis, very close. I don't know if that was there before I messed with it or not. In any case I'm glad I found it!
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#57
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#58
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#59
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Tonight I worked on the HV section. After removing all the old resistors and HV wires I cleaned them.
I installed 2 Watt resistors and some new 20Kv wire. I installed the Flyback and tube socket back onto the chassis along with the stationary HV cage. I have to wire the HV section to the chassis next. Here are some pics before they went back onto the chassis. |
#60
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Audiokarma |
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