I found a Sylvania round color set!

[radio63]

Ian,

With regards to your safety glass problem, I had the same issue with my CT-100. What I did was to use a hair dryer to warm the edges of the glass. You can start at one corner, and use a wide spatula and gently, very gently apply pressure while you keep the edge of the glass warm. Don't concentrate the heat too much or you could damage the glass or damage the finish. The use of the spatula is OK since you have metal trim that goes around the glass, though if you are gentle there will be no marring of the edges of the wood finish. I had a friend assist me with this and it is easier with two people but one can do the job. Once the seal breaks on one corner, just follow along with hair dryer and spatula and it should work. This is documented on Pete Desknis' web site. The two most important things are care and patience. Good luck!

Gilbert

[RetroHacker]

OK, so the heat will melt the goo. I wasn't sure what it was - if it was RTV that was added later, then I don't think the heat would have helped. So that was factory goo... I think next week I'll try again to get the glass off - I think if I use the floor tile puller and a hair dryer I should be able to get it off. Thanks Gilbert!

I went down to the library and photocopied the Sam's. This is a complicated set - biggest schematic I've ever seen in a Sam's. It's longer than a standard 11x17" page. Now I have a list of the capacitors it uses, so I can order the ones I'm out of. Some values are going to have to be substituted though, since even Mouser doesn't have some of them (like .0027 and .0039 at 1600v). And as usual, electrolytics are only going to be able to be "close" since the industry standard has changed to a new value convention - like 47uf instead of 40uf. Fortunately, the component tolerances with these old parts is pretty wide, and small changes won't matter. Either way, I'm going to try and keep as many of the components the right value as possible.

In some cases, I wonder why they even bothered. I mean, why have both .0022 and .0027 caps in the same set? There is a good chance that they'll be the same anyway, with the 10 or 20% tolerance on these old style paper caps. That's the whole reason for the modern standard value system in the first place, but you would think that back then, someone at RCA would have said "Gee, if we only use .0022's and forget about the .0027's, the circuit won't actually really change, and we'll have one less part to stock".

It's kinda frustrating to not be able to get exactly the right parts, and, even though I know what I can safely substitute, I like to try to keep things the way they were when possible, and use original values - if only because it makes tracing things later so much easier because the values you're looking at in the set are the same as on the schematic.

The electrolytics are going to be fun. Lots of substitution and creative mounting.

-Ian

[stromberg6]

Hello Ian: I did some checking about caps. I bought replacements for the doubler circuit from Allied when I did my CTC-4 last year. They currently have axial caps rated at 200 mfd@300 volts for $8.08 each, 259 pieces in stock. Check their prices on other values and compare with other vendors. The allied stock number is 852-0039. The CDE part number is TC594. These will work for the low voltage doubler. I used a variety of sources for the other caps, including JUST RADIOS in Ontario Canada. Service is prompt and hassle free.
For the other cans, I used a combination of axial and radial, as space permitted. These chassis don't have much room to spare, as compared to later ones. You can locate the power supply caps around the chassis, while being careful of signal bypass considerations. If you take your time and think out each replacement location, it will work out well. Hope I can offer help again.
Kevin

[Steve K]

Ian:

What I found to be the easiest when I restore CTC-4s is to restuff the electrolytics. That solves the problem of addind terminal strips in an already tight space. The nice thing about the CTC-4 cans is that they have the cardboard sleeve on them and they can be carefully removed. You can then cut off the can just above the large rim around the base and mount the new caps inside. You can then glue the sleeve back on without reinstalling the metal can. This makes a nice need appearance under the chassis, If you do this just be carefull when moving the chassis around so as not to bump the soft cardboard cans.

Steve

[vintagecollect]

...

[radio63]

Hi Ian,

The heat from the hair dryer will soften the material enough for it to let go of the glass, that was my experience with the CT-100. The black goo won't drip or run, it should just soften and allow the glass to be pulled away. Also I should have said that the hair dryer should not be set to high. Low or possibly medium should be OK. I chose the hair dryer as opposed to a heat gun because there is more control with the hair dryer, and I feared there might be a disaster with the heat gun. Keep the hair dryer moving as you warm the glass. I beleive that seal around the glass was there to keep dust out and prevent any noise or vibration. I guess after 50 plus years it has turned into goo. You'll have to decide what to replace it with but that will come later. I think your idea of using the puller along with heat is interesting. Please keep us posted on how it all works out. Best of luck!

Gilbert

[ohohyodafarted]

radio63 has the right idea. I used this exact method to get the front glass off of myctc4. It took about 30 minutes to get the glass hot enough for the rubber to soften. I carefully pryed at the top edge until it started to let go and then worked my way down both sides until the whole thing was free. Be carfull not to pry too hard or you could break the glass.

Congratulation on such a RARE find. It is hard to believe that sets of this rarity are still lurking around in someones basement or attic.

[Tomcomm]

Great find! My Dad's first color TV was a RCA CTC4 he won. I got it about 30 years ago and replaced the 21AXP22 with a 21FBP22 with sulfide phosphor, much brighter. I don't remember the inactive screen color, but suspect it was olive green like yours. the horz HV xformer burned out about 15 years ago and I trashed it, too bad.

Anyway, your 21FBP22 was replaced in 1970 so it should be plenty good. This CRT came out in May, 1961. By 1970, the 21FBP22A may have been rare-earth phosphor, brighter yet. Can you determine if your CRT is a 12FB22A?
I'm interested because I've got two 21FBP22s, a green screen like yours and a newer lite gray. The greeni is stamped 21FBP22 on it's pin-cap, along with its SN, the gray has only the SN which is much higher number. The gray seems to produce brighter, better color so I'm assuming it's a 21FBP22A. This is the CRT I'm using in my "reactivated" RCA 21CT55. I hope you respond so I can stop being concerned if I made the right choice of tubes. Thanks....Tom

[RetroHacker]

I don't know for certain, I haven't looked real close at the tube. I know the guy mentioned that it had the rare-earth phosphors. He still even had the warrenty card for the tube. I'll look at it. I know that the paper tag on the bell of the tube says both 21GUP22 and 21FBP22, but I'm not sure what the base socket says. I'll check when I get home from work.

-Ian