Videokarma.org

Go Back   Videokarma.org TV - Video - Vintage Television & Radio Forums > Early Color Television

We appreciate your help

in keeping this site going.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #61  
Old 02-20-2014, 05:25 PM
Phil Nelson's Avatar
Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,030
Wouldn't it be cool if mine was one of those? Wonder what "adjustments" those experts are doing in the publicity photo? Checking to see if the top covers fit?

Phil Nelson

Last edited by Phil Nelson; 02-20-2014 at 05:30 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 02-20-2014, 06:19 PM
Steve D.'s Avatar
Steve D. Steve D. is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Hollywood Hills, Ca.
Posts: 1,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
Wouldn't it be cool if mine was one of those? Wonder what "adjustments" those experts are doing in the publicity photo? Checking to see if the top covers fit?

Phil Nelson
Good one Phil. The photog probably told them to look busy. Here's another photo of the CTC-4 production line I originally submitted to the ETF site.

-Steve D.
__________________
Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site:
http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/

Last edited by Steve D.; 02-01-2017 at 03:52 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 02-20-2014, 07:07 PM
Boobtubeman's Avatar
Boobtubeman Boobtubeman is offline
<---WANTED: Motorola 17P6
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woodland Ca.
Posts: 931
How much was the cost to ship the empty box?

Always wondered.....

SR
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:22 PM
Phil Nelson's Avatar
Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,030
I cost just under $180 to FedEx the empty box coast-to-coast. It's the size that made it expensive; the shipper told me it could have weighed up to 200 pounds without increasing that charge. (UPS would have cost even more, if you're wondering). My box was about 2-3 inches taller than it really needed to be. I don't know if making it shorter would have gotten it under some size limit.

I couldn't resist setting the new tube into the cabinet and trying on the retainer ring.



That anode connection is awfully close to the ring. Seems like you're asking for trouble (arcing) if you don't cut away some of the ring.

Looking ahead to when I really install it, the tube has an aquadag coating, so I guess that means fashioning a ground connection.

I don't have any use for the old insulating skirt. I wonder if it would be useful to cut away the bottom of the skirt and retain the rest (the waist, if you will) to go between this ring and the tube's neck and bell? I could even pigtail onto the old ultor connection -- which is built into the skirt -- to make the new aquadag connection. (I already cut off most of the old ultor lead to make my new anode lead.) That would mean cutting a hole in the skirt for the anode lead, of course.

On the other hand, if I butcher the skirt, I couldn't reuse it in the remote event that I run across a good 21AXP22 or have mine rebuilt . . . .

Phil Nelson
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 02-20-2014, 09:04 PM
zeno's Avatar
zeno zeno is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 4,672
Interesting stuff.
For a dag connection use flat braided wire with a spring to pull things tight.
Anode is too close, cut out a large half moon. Insulate with a
piece of plastic with a channel, get from a 70's era Zenith. Others
may have used them, dont remember. They went on the DGS shield.

Use the large brown single wire anode connector from a Zenith tripler
like a 221-141-**. Very common & the heaviest anode I remember.
We used them for all replacements. PN's are 15-276 & 15-276-01
one has 2 holes for HV & focus divider & the other just one hole.
Most had a screw to put them on.

73 Zeno
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #66  
Old 02-20-2014, 09:32 PM
stromberg67's Avatar
stromberg67 stromberg67 is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ellington CT
Posts: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
I cost just under $180 to FedEx the empty box coast-to-coast. It's the size that made it expensive; the shipper told me it could have weighed up to 200 pounds without increasing that charge. (UPS would have cost even more, if you're wondering). My box was about 2-3 inches taller than it really needed to be. I don't know if making it shorter would have gotten it under some size limit.

I couldn't resist setting the new tube into the cabinet and trying on the retainer ring.



That anode connection is awfully close to the ring. Seems like you're asking for trouble (arcing) if you don't cut away some of the ring.

Looking ahead to when I really install it, the tube has an aquadag coating, so I guess that means fashioning a ground connection.

I don't have any use for the old insulating skirt. I wonder if it would be useful to cut away the bottom of the skirt and retain the rest (the waist, if you will) to go between this ring and the tube's neck and bell? I could even pigtail onto the old ultor connection -- which is built into the skirt -- to make the new aquadag connection. (I already cut off most of the old ultor lead to make my new anode lead.) That would mean cutting a hole in the skirt for the anode lead, of course.

On the other hand, if I butcher the skirt, I couldn't reuse it in the remote event that I run across a good 21AXP22 or have mine rebuilt . . . .

Phil Nelson
Sylvania published a brochure back in the late 60s about installing rare earth tubes in older receivers titled "Color Fidelity for Older Receivers". The part on CTC-4 showed a small portion of the skirt cut away from the anode area of a 21FB to allow for the connection of a compatible lead and boot. I scanned it, and have it somewhere, but not on this machine. I'll look for it tomorrow and if I find it I'll post it here. Should be an easy job to do, and will prevent arcing. I'm considering putting a 21CY in my CTC-4 but haven't yet made up my mind about that.
Good luck Phil!
Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 02-21-2014, 12:13 AM
Steve D.'s Avatar
Steve D. Steve D. is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Hollywood Hills, Ca.
Posts: 1,790
Phil,

When I purchased my CTC-5 Wingate, many years ago, the previous owner had already had the 21AXP22A tube replaced w/a 21FB22. RCA provided a conversion kit that allowed for the installation with a retaining ring that attached directly to the rear of the mask. No struts required and plenty of clearance room for the anode lead. I don't recall ever seeing another kit like this in other sets.

-Steve D.
__________________
Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site:
http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/

Last edited by Steve D.; 02-01-2017 at 03:52 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 02-21-2014, 12:23 AM
Phil Nelson's Avatar
Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,030
Thanks, that is excellent information. I wish I could install the CRT and try to fire it up tomorrow, but with so many things packed up and no suitable place to work, that ain't gonna happen. At least I can try to collect the right materials in the meantime.

Phil Nelson
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 02-21-2014, 03:44 PM
stromberg67's Avatar
stromberg67 stromberg67 is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ellington CT
Posts: 179
Phil,
I couldn't find the original brochure, but I did find a scanned copy in my CTC-4 binder. The scans aren't too good, but can be read. At least the recommended dimensions are given for notching the flange, along with advise about supporting the bottom of the mask assembly, as the glass tube is much more heavy than the 21AX.
Kevin
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Syl color fidelity 01 (Medium).jpg (61.9 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg Syl color fidelity 02 (Medium).jpg (57.6 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg Syl color fidelity 03 (Medium).jpg (54.8 KB, 79 views)
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:40 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,758
On my CTC-4 I was able to get away with not cutting the skirt and instead use a modern anode lead salvaged from a 90's BPC set and a few layers of thick plastic ziplock bag type material stuffed between the skirt and the HV suction cup. Back when I was active with that project it did not seem to allow any arcing or corona.

I feel it is best not to cut or modify any of the original mounting hardware as you never know when a good 21AXP might surface. Going with that thinking I saved the unmolested bell insulator as is from my set and refrained from cutting the HV lead to have the plug. I was able to make a decent HV plug by striping a good length of spare HV cable folding the wire neatly and tinning the strands together with solder....There are better solutions to the plug then I implemented, but my way does work.

With how perfect your set is I strongly encourage you to not do any thing permanent to mount a different type of CRT which may end up only being a temporary substitute.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #71  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:56 PM
Phil Nelson's Avatar
Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,030
Yes, I'm always in favor of the least-destructive solution. Today I laid my hands on a modern anode lead. Perhaps I will try that with some insulating layers between the anode cup and the metal ring (and one hand hovering over the power plug).

Phil Nelson
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:00 PM
stromberg67's Avatar
stromberg67 stromberg67 is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ellington CT
Posts: 179
Good suggestion, Tom. I also would like to keep my 4 as original as possible. I installed a 21FB in a CTC-7 once, and used a Cool Whip top cut in half with GC high voltage putty between the halves. I wedged it between the ring and the CRT with great results, no arcing. I know Cool Whip is still available, but I don't know about the putty. I'm pretty sure a sub could be found to work.
Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:45 PM
miniman82's Avatar
miniman82 miniman82 is offline
First Light: 1952-2011
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 4,159
I tried using just a modern anode cap all by itself on my set before I had a good 21AXP22, but it would create random loud telltale 'snaps' as it would arc right through the silicone. 25kv ain't nothin to fool with, I would either cut the support you have or find a very slim anode cap and add additional insulation.
__________________
Evolution...
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 02-21-2014, 07:54 PM
Phil Nelson's Avatar
Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by stromberg67 View Post
Phil,
I couldn't find the original brochure, but I did find a scanned copy in my CTC-4 binder. The scans aren't too good, but can be read. At least the recommended dimensions are given for notching the flange, along with advise about supporting the bottom of the mask assembly, as the glass tube is much more heavy than the 21AX.
Yes, I had never lifted a metal tube before and I was startled at how much lighter it is than the glass counterpart.

I might be able to get that article through an inter-library loan (to make a better scan) if I can tell them the desired issue. As I read the first page, it is Sylvania News Technical Section, Summer-Fall 1965, volume 12, no. 2.

Phil Nelson
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:15 AM
Steve McVoy's Avatar
Steve McVoy Steve McVoy is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 1,477
I think you can still buy Cambric insulating cloth from Antique Radio Supply. This stuff is great for HV insulation. I would put several layers of it under the bell and over the anode connection. This way you don't destroy anything original.
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:36 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.