#16
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2) There is also significant loss of DC coupling in the video output due to the capacitor-coupled contrast control in the cathode 3) DC needs to be restored at the output of the video output - but doing it there may negate the brightness control action, so something may need to be done to provide a brightness control - I can't remember how DC restoration was added in the Porta-color fix that was posted to Videokarma, but that may provide the solution - suggest looking it up. 4) you are right, theoretically, clamping to sync tips is not the best in case sync level varies, but it may be a practical solution if you don't mind readjusting the brightness control occasionally when you change channels. Back porch clamps are much more complex and require pulse drivers and very accurate timing to make sure they do not drift into clamping either partially on sync tips or partially on active video. The sync tip clamping is automatically self-gated on the most negative part of the signal. |
#17
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You are correct. For proof, I just inserted a diode before the video output peaking coil and ground. It made no difference at all in the picture, so I can assume DC restoration will have to be done elsewhere. Drat, there goes my hope of a simple solution! Quote:
Looks like it's set up as a cathode bypass cap of sorts. Any way to improve this part of the circuit, or am I right in assuming that cap has to stay there? My guess is that any changes would require a complete redesign of the video output... Quote:
I am under the impression that can't happen, because the output and CRT are directly coupled? I can't find the porta color thread. Quote:
That's why I got excited by that integrated circuit I first posted, but it does not come in a high enough voltage rating for use on something like my CTC-9. Highest rated version I think was 220v or something like that, and the cathodes of the -9 sit at somewhere around 350... |
#18
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Originally Posted by old_tv_nut 1) There is some loss of DC at the coupling between the first and second video amps, but not completely. You are correct. For proof, I just inserted a diode before the video output peaking coil and ground. It made no difference at all in the picture, so I can assume DC restoration will have to be done elsewhere. Drat, there goes my hope of a simple solution! Sorry about that! Quote: 2) There is also significant loss of DC coupling in the video output due to the capacitor-coupled contrast control in the cathode Looks like it's set up as a cathode bypass cap of sorts. Any way to improve this part of the circuit, or am I right in assuming that cap has to stay there? My guess is that any changes would require a complete redesign of the video output... Probably. In the CTC-5 , it's a DC control, which unfortunately runs the brightness up and down along with the contrast because the cathode (and plate) current is not zero at black. Several people with CTC-5's have modified their sets to be like your CTC-7 to fix that problem, but it reduces the DC coupling Quote: 3) DC needs to be restored at the output of the video output - but doing it there may negate the brightness control action, so something may need to be done to provide a brightness control - I can't remember how DC restoration was added in the Porta-color fix that was posted to Videokarma, but that may provide the solution - suggest looking it up. I am under the impression that can't happen, because the output and CRT are directly coupled? I can't find the porta color thread.Keep looking and I will too -it's around here (or maybe audiokarma?) somewhere. The brightness could still work if it changes the height of the blanking interval and you end up clamping to the bottom of that - but not sure if that is the case. Quote: 4) Back porch clamps are much more complex and require pulse drivers and very accurate timing to make sure they do not drift into clamping either partially on sync tips or partially on active video. The sync tip clamping is automatically self-gated on the most negative part of the signal. That's why I got excited by that integrated circuit I first posted, but it does not come in a high enough voltage rating for use on something like my CTC-9. Highest rated version I think was 220v or something like that, and the cathodes of the -9 sit at somewhere around 350... Interesting - maybe doing something to clamp at the grid of the video output and changing the cathode circuit back to DC coupled like the CTC-5 could work. But I would find the Portacolor thing first, as I recall it being very simple as well as effective. |
#19
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I jus tlooked at the LM2480. It does not have any pulse circuits to establish back porch clamping - its main claim is to provide a low impedance (in combination with C4) for the diode clamp D3. So, it is a sync tip (or blanking pulse tip) blanker anyway.
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#20
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Um, I have a CTC-9.... Quote:
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Audiokarma |
#21
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Sorry CTC-9. I better put on my glasses!
Portacolor fix was here, but the illustration has disappeared. Can someone help? http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...ght=portacolor |
#22
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Also, I've been meaning to ask: what's the deal with AK asking for a password to view certain threads? There's an AK thread linked in the first response in the above URL, but I cannot access it...
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#23
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Good Day gentlemen,
here is the GE DC restoration improvement info - see included document. Personally, i use the NS (National Semiconductor) LM-1881 sync separator, Back Porch sampler IC for DC restoration - see included pdf. The chip has a Burst/Back porch output, perfect for DC restoration processing. I use this IC as French TV AM carrier modulated video uses positive modulation and many TVs sold here are lousily-adapted Euro B/G (Negative Video mod.) to French standards. Background brightness and video content contrast vary with program content: unacceptable! Having a "BackPorch clamped" solid video reference is the only way to go for correct DC restoration, be it in B&W and more essentially for color. If you don't want a scene where the headlights of a car at night turn "black/negative" instead of brilliantly illuminating the stage, something must be done. IC LM-1181 + some added circuitry, depending on the TV does the job. The LM-1881 gives a stable true back porch sampled output and takes into its stride varying RF input signal intensity coming from the antenna/tuner/IF strip assembly. Just to inform you of how complex the problem is, i learned the hard way that having a DC restored full Y/RGB chain wasn't enough: you also need to control the RF & IF AGC gain controls to keep video demodulation within the accepted signal level limits, but that is another story... I hope this will help you, Best Regards jhalphen Paris/France |
#24
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Interesting...
So if I'm reading the directions of the LM1881 correctly, it will provide only a timing pulse for clamping. Does that mean I still need to provide the correct clamping voltage through something like a transistor, which would be triggered by this IC? |
#25
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Oops, you are right, good catch. Somehow I missed the description of black level going UP in higher-contrast scenes, which is something I have not ever seen.
Miniman82- Yes, you would need to build a circuit that would be driven by the LM1881. Thanks for the posts, Jerome.
__________________
Chris Quote from another forum: "(Antique TV collecting) always seemed to me to be a fringe hobby that only weirdos did." |
Audiokarma |
#26
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I figured.
That being the case, the problem now becomes where to get the correct voltage to clamp the signal to? I read somewhere that to do it accurately/reliably enough, you would need a DAC. Idea is that you use a microcontroller to set the DAC to an accurate black level, then use the LM1881 to clamp the signal to the DAC generated voltage. The McGyver in me says there's another way, though. The article I referenced in my first post mentions a comparator in the feedback loop of the video amp: why not use the LM1881 to trigger the comparator, thereby stabilizing the black level before the beginning of each horizontally scanned line? |
#27
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Its nominal value is 680K for NTSC signals, but I have had problems with the resulting pulse being slightly too wide to properly drive a clamp. I've reduced R set to 470K or 560K with better results. The pulse must start and end during the back porch time and must not extend past the end of the H back porch. If it does, the clamp will be clamping to a voltage other than ground, the usual voltage level of the back porch portion of the waveform. Hope you are successful. Cliff |
#28
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Composite_Video.svg In the above illustration, you can see that there is a blank level at .285v (the so-called 'blacker than black' level), and then slightly above that you have the 'true' black level at .339v (7.5 IRE). This is where studio monitors are calibrated to: http://www.outside-hollywood.com/200...tudio-monitor/ So is it also the voltage you would ideally clamp to, or am I wrong? |
#29
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Regarding the clamping pulse width: the value in the IC is likely a compromise between burst gate and clamping pulse width. Ideally, the burst gate should be wide enough to include the whole burst, while the clamp pulse should be narrow enough to never include sync or active video. So, changing the value as Cliff suggests is a good idea. |
#30
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The phrasing we (I) have been using is a bit misleading. You do not clamp TO back porch. You clamp the back porch to some level. In a PAL receiver, you clamp the back porch to the DC level of black in the video amp chain. In an NTSC reveiver, you clamp the back porch to a level below black (7.5 IRE units below) so that black is at the right level in the video amp chain.
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Audiokarma |
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