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Once again, you will be likely finding yourself up the creek without a paddle here (an oscilloscope), with very little to guide you in the right direction, for all you know, the IF could be acting up again, and annihilating the color sync information before it can be processed.
A good start that is IF you had a scope, would be to check the beat pattern going into V22, chroma phase detector, fed from the burst amp, this is what locks in the ref osc.
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=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
#2
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#3
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It's exactly what happened with with my CTC-16XL, I had color with direct input video, but not from tuner, a messed up IF WILL BLOCK color, cause the timings getting to the color circuit will be distorted, in my case, the 4.5 mhz trap was WAY out of tune, blocking all color, leaving a perfect BW screen, the IF on mine is still not fully right, but works well enough. But yes, a borked IF can distort the colorburst signal timing, leaving just a BW screen, this can be tested by once again removing the 3rd If, and putting in direct video at test point B , as you have done in the past, if you see no color, then it's the color circuits, if you do, then is a problem before the color circuits.
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=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
#4
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#5
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It would be more advantageous to try to feed in video at point B first, with the 3rd IF removed, to try and localize the area of fault before you tweak anything.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
Audiokarma |
#6
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I just turned it on cold and the color came in but if I turn the channel selector and back to 3 no color sync
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#7
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Get out the freeze spray!
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#8
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Does the line go from 12 - to - 6 ? Vertical line top to bottom? That's the transition
from Horizontal output tube to damper.... You know about that right.... Might not be much to worry about....... .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
#9
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Any ideas how to get a slug to move when they don’t move using a plastic diddle stick ?
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#10
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As bandersen pointed out on U-tube, the older type brass metal ones were better.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
Audiokarma |
#11
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#12
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The only way I can see to heat the core is with a pencil type soldering iron that would fit the hole it’s screwed into. I was going to bearly tweak the oscillator
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#13
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What I have done before is taken the correct size allen wrench, and put it in the stuck core and heated the allen wrench, and applied heat to the stuck core indirectly, but by no means should one ever try to turn it with the allen wrench that will break it, only the plastic alignment tool.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
#14
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No I wouldn’t use a metal Allen wrench I know they break like a cracker
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#15
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On coils with thicker guage wire like H linearity coils I've heated the coil by connecting it to a D cell battery.
The fine guage ones like color and IF the Allen wrench heater sounds clever... Maybe add some heatsink compound to the end in the slug to improve thermal conduction to the slug.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
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