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#1
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This philosophy might be followed by an engineer, but you can bet that the average owner would want that expensive color set to show even noisy color if it was available.
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#2
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Of course, if the color AFC section was crappy and couldn't maintain lock under noisy conditions, that would certainly make you want to turn it off.
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#3
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I had never seen an adjustment like that before in a vintage TV, they must be rare, I have seen things like “color temperature settings” in LCD types, but in all the years since HS till now, this is the first time I have seen one in a tube type tv. :O
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#4
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Quote:
Note that with the excellent tracking stability of modern digital video hardware, deliberate separately controlled mistracking of highlights, midtones, and shadows is used in cinema and now even in Photoshop still image processing, where it is termed "color grading." It can be effective for setting a visual mood, but can also lead to fads like the strong orange-cyan look of some movies. |
#5
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What gets me is the 3 parallel lights, " Easy vision cinema " Say what?
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Audiokarma |
#6
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Well, that seems to be a pointless gimmick!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/pointless.jpg a 2nd CRT bias? and up front where the user can set it? :O wow...
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#7
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Mind boggled...
To me it seems that adding that gimmick just gives a faster way to wear out the green/blue guns, having a master CRT bias pot on the back tied to the cathodes of the Y-AMPS, and another on the front, on the CRT green/blue G1 that the user can set? This is prob why it was replaced with a new one in 1973. No telling what condition it's in now, won't know till I pick it up on Saturday.
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#8
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Quote:
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#9
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Quote:
Some Motorola sets had this third color control (they called it Tint, and called the phase control Hue, rather than Tint, as RCA and everyone else did). In the Motorolas, it was actually useful if the viewer knew how to use it (which nobody did), because the DC coupled Motorola single tube demods tracking would change depending on the mismatching of the tube sections. In the cheaper models, the control was replaced with fixed resistors, and if you replaced the demod tube, you may have needed to adjust G2s to get neutral tracking again. The early rectangular high end Magnavoxes had an automatic color switch (with a fancier name I can't recall) that reduced green-purple color saturation and set the tracking to sepia. It reduced the variation on skin tones, but gave the "tan cowboy on a brown horse riding into an orange sunset" kind of picture. Last edited by old_tv_nut; 07-14-2022 at 02:49 PM. |
#10
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And yet, with all the “perfection” of ATSC,etc, it seems that the color still isn't always consistent. Go figure.
Almost The Same Color? |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Not the fault of the ATSC system, which does not deal with color except to transmit the bits.
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#12
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If this were Reddit we'd have 100 Europeans piling in right now to insist that PAL is vastly better at color, and that NO their TVs most certainly do not flicker!
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#13
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UPDATE!
I got it!! VERY bad news , CRT is damaged! pin 12 has been broken off of the base, this is prob why they dumped the set. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221359a.jpg http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221403.jpg good news is, I may have been able to fix it by tacking a wire to it. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221404.jpg flyback looks OK now I gotta start bringing back to life
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#14
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one very dirty looking RCA type looking chassis.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221748.jpg http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221746a.jpg
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#15
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Progress, and step back, sort of? :O
After seeing the broken pin on the 25AP22A ( or so the sticker on it says ) , and not knowing if my fix attempt will work or not. I tried to bring the set slow up on Variac, this fond that C3 was REALLY bad, as it got hot VERY fast. So I replaced all the sections of it, and tried again, THIS time power came up, I got hiss in the speaker, I heard vert start, but NO HV.... looked inside the HV cage, the HV rect was lit, and very hot. Pulled the cap off and got a good strong AC arc all over the place, removed the HV shunt, no change,,, BAD 3A3A, of which I have no spares. so now, before I can make sure the CRT is any good, I must wait for the new 3A3C to get here so I can get HV up.
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Audiokarma |
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