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#1
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Just pull the bottom solder tab down a bit slide a new contact from a similar socket in from the top and solder the tabs together under chassis. That is the least intrusive method.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#2
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I have to pull the tuner so it'll be a few days before I report back. Thx
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#3
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I found the time tonight. I had an old Motorola chassis that had a similar tube socket. After robbing the socket, I cleaned off the solder on one of the pins, then I used some short needle nosed pliers to "flatten" the small indentation in the contact. I then used some small narrow duck bill pliers to push it up and out of the socket.
I then cleaned up the contact. Ready for the tuner. I pulled the tuner and removed the turret. Lucky me. the #1 pin on the 6J6 was the easiest one to get too! I removed the solder and the resistor and jumper wire from the old contact. I inserted the "new" contact and used a small flat 1/8 dia. pin punch and a small hammer to drive it home. It felt secure. Then I rewired the contact with the jumper wire and resistor. I then tried the tube in and out several times. Good to go! Thanks to ElectronicM for the suggestion. |
#4
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I reinstalled the tuner and now I have sound.
I then found a 12SN7GT bad. I had it listed as bad but installed it anyway! I replaced the tube and now I have HV! I put in the 10BP4 CRT that I cleaned up and restored the DAG with Slip-plate. A few tweaks on the back panel controls and here is what I have. The CRT works very well! Of course I'll have to take some time to align it and set it up. I do have an annoying 60 cycle hum/buzz in the sound. After I align it if it is still there, then I'll look into it. |
#5
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That chassis probably looks better than it did when it rolled off the line. Great work!
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Audiokarma |
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