WTB: Potentiometer or part of one, and knobs needed.

[Electronic M]

I've got a Motorola TS-292 21" bakelite table set with a physically dammaged volume/contrast pot/power switch.
Going from memory it is a 2.5k contrast pot with a 625 top end tap, and a 1 meg with a bottom 300K tap.

I've got an IRC kit with various control parts, and was able to come up with the right value resistance elements with correct taps, shafts that seem close enough to work, and most of the housing....However my kit has no switches in it. I was able to find an older junk one but the rotational stop on the shaft is catching on many things inside the switch/back housing which indicates to me incompatibility....

I need either an original ganged control off a Motorola or an IRC switch (single pole or double will work) with the complete back housing for the resistance section of the control.

I also believe I need the complete channel knob set for this set and possibly the tone/volume/contrast knob cluster.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I've got a Motorola TS-292 21" bakelite table set with a physically dammaged volume/contrast pot/power switch.
Going from memory it is a 2.5k contrast pot with a 625 top end tap, and a 1 meg with a bottom 300K tap.

I've got an IRC kit with various control parts, and was able to come up with the right value resistance elements with correct taps, shafts that seem close enough to work, and most of the housing....However my kit has no switches in it. I was able to find an older junk one but the rotational stop on the shaft is catching on many things inside the switch/back housing which indicates to me incompatibility....

I need either an original ganged control off a Motorola or an IRC switch (single pole or double will work) with the complete back housing for the resistance section of the control.

I also believe I need the complete channel knob set for this set and possibly the tone/volume/contrast knob cluster.

EDIT: I saw TS-929, not TS-292....oops. With a part number, I can check my Clarostat RTV series stuff. Should be a part number starting with "18"

[Electronic M]

After searching through the riders I can say the pot is 18B720263.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

After searching through the riders I can say the pot is 18B720263.

Same as 18B722190, Industry number X2571 (used by Sams RGC guide to "build" the pot with off-the-shelf parts...)

You read from left to right - it includes all shafts, bushings, switches and front and rear elements.

My RTV guide tops out at TS-114/TS115 or so...

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I've got a Motorola TS-292 21" bakelite table set with a physically dammaged volume/contrast pot/power switch.
Going from memory it is a 2.5k contrast pot with a 625 top end tap, and a 1 meg with a bottom 300K tap.

I've got an IRC kit with various control parts, and was able to come up with the right value resistance elements with correct taps, shafts that seem close enough to work, and most of the housing....However my kit has no switches in it. I was able to find an older junk one but the rotational stop on the shaft is catching on many things inside the switch/back housing which indicates to me incompatibility....

I need either an original ganged control off a Motorola or an IRC switch (single pole or double will work) with the complete back housing for the resistance section of the control.

I also believe I need the complete channel knob set for this set and possibly the tone/volume/contrast knob cluster.

You had a Motorola chassis, where the cabinet was trashed and the 21AU CRT was dead. A newer model, but maybe the control was similar. Worth looking into.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

You had a Motorola chassis, where the cabinet was trashed and the 21AU CRT was dead. A newer model, but maybe the control was similar. Worth looking into.

I thought of that and looked into it before creating this topic (I rather use my stock than beg from other's when feasible)....The front (contrast element) is a different resistance, and the shaft length is different so it is a no go.

I'm probably going to go with the IRC stack I've built till I finish the recap and confirm it works. The IRC rig should work, but I'll have to forgo having a power switch for now.