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  #31  
Old 10-17-2012, 04:12 PM
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Zenith26kc20 Zenith26kc20 is offline
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If you can, change the bumblebee in the IF area. It causes jittery sync after warmup. I've posted this before but RCA hid this cap away from the sync circuit and it drove me nuts for a bit.
Also, the RCA schematic is far better than the Sams.
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  #32  
Old 11-11-2012, 01:20 PM
frenchy frenchy is offline
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Regarding your remote control battery...

I've recently finished my electronic restoration of the exact same set as yours (CTC-10 with 2-door Henredon cabinet). The remote runs on 4.2 in the schematics, not 9 volt. I wasn't able to find a suitable replacement, but I was able to make a simple replacement by taping three A640 1.5v button batteries together and it works perfectly. The flat, "+" end goes to the inner battery terminal.

My set came with a rebuilt FJP22 CRT. Tests great on all guns though the red tends to defocus some in the detail on super-red content. One of those things where you have to actually see the tube work rather than relying on meter readings. I'm still not 100% convinced that it's the tube and not something else because brightness and contrast seems to have NO affect on the red defocusing, only the 'intensity' control on reds. I have another FJP I am soon going to do an in-set test on and if works much better I may end up swapping it. But the current tube is quite acceptable for me. I did a reactivation of it using my crt tester which definitely helped but I'm not specifically recommending that you do that with yours. I tried a brightener but after the reactivation, it had no real effect so I took it off.

Last edited by frenchy; 11-11-2012 at 01:23 PM.
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  #33  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:04 PM
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Dennman6 Dennman6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicradios View Post
My CTC-9 has a 21FJP22a installed without any mods. I'm happy with the fleshtones. Here's a photo.
Richard Basehart. Is the still from "The Andersonville Trial"? He was a great Captain Wurtz in that.
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