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  #1  
Old 02-21-2005, 09:33 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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Ready to begin on my roundie

Im ready to begin on my roundie, RCA2000 come over to my house today, to bring over the CRT with major cateract problems, and it was nice meeting him. hes a great guy. he also gave me a board with parts to fix my CTC-167, but thats off topic (please dont yell at me mods. lol).

So far, almost all of the bonding degrated, and you can only see the center spot of the CRT. i took off the mailing tape, and no heatgun at all, i peeled off the glass and cleaned it up. the center wasnt sticking all the well either.

jack(rca2000) told me that the tube tests emission like brand new. but he mentioned one of the colors, i think the red was a little weak, but still very strong. Hell, i dont like much red anyway.

the center of the screen, the bonding glue felt like the material they make clear hoses out of or something! it wasnt sticky anymore, and didnt leave any residue behind. it just came off, now I have to clean up the glass.


It says in the service info that jack gave me, that you cannot interchange fjp22 with fbp22. I have no idea what my set had, since the base was broken off that had the number. the one I got now is a FJP22. its an admiral, with the yoke and stuff still attached.

question for jack: Can I still use the yoke and convergence magnet thats on this tube in my zenith? my zenith looks to be missing the purity rings according to the service info. Another thing I noticed, was one of the convergence magnets on the convergence yoke looks a little angled, other than the rest of them. maybe thats what they ment by not interchangeable. I dunno.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbates14
It says in the service info that jack gave me, that you cannot interchange fjp22 with fbp22. I have no idea what my set had, since the base was broken off that had the number. the one I got now is a FJP22. its an admiral, with the yoke and stuff still attached.
Mike, I've noticed on my sets that the mounting band that goes around the front of the crt is different between the fbp and fjp tubes.

One of the bands has tabs that slightly fold over the front of the crt in the four corners. Generally, i've noticed this particular setup used on fbp tubes. When you tighten up the band, those front tabs will hold the safety glass securely in place on the tube.

Seems the fjp band does not have these tabs to hold the safety glass since it's held to the front of the tube with the glue.

I am not sure whether or not all brands of sets did this. The majority of my roundies are RCA or RCA clones... and those are the ones i notice have or dont have the tabs. I have a couple of Zeniths, but, never removed the toobs from them. I am not home right now... if I was, I'd take a pic of what I am speaking of to show you.

If you can find the tabs I am speaking of, that might let you know what the set had in it. Hope that helps.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:18 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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well, i looked, both tubes are the same, they both are FJP22s. but the admiral mounting band ISNT the same, so i will have to change the mounting bands, and put the degousser on this tube. I found some stickers on the tube covered in dust, i cleaned them off to find the tube type, and date code.


Get this one: The tube that was bad, thats currently in teh set, and im pulling out: Has a date code of '63 odd. the set was made in what, 66 or 67?

it was either a overstock of older tubes that zenith put in there, or a service shop put an older stock tube in there. that explaines why it went to air. its older than the chassus.

i just loooove how zenith made this set, I have to pull the tuners, and wires, and all kinds of crap before I can pull the chassis, and you cant even get to the front tuner and bezel screws hardly at all. Crappy design on thier part. but, I have to unmount the front metal, and pull it out the cabnet so I can put the new tube on the mount and stick the front metal mount back into the TV and rebolt it. PAIN. but oh well.

Last edited by mbates14; 02-21-2005 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:23 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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anyway, back to the point. I got the new tube looking like you just walked with it out of a service shop in the 60's it looks brand new, not an inch of dust on it. you can eat off the tube now.

so, im going to put the new tube in and stuff. I dont have a test pattern generator, so I need advice on convergence.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbates14
i just loooove how zenith made this set, I have to pull the tuners, and wires, and all kinds of crap before I can pull the chassis, and you cant even get to the front tuner and bezel screws hardly at all. Crappy design on thier part. but, I have to unmount the front metal, and pull it out the cabnet so I can put the new tube on the mount and stick the front metal mount back into the TV and rebolt it. PAIN. but oh well.
Yeah, when I first got that 29jc20Q, it was quite evident that removing the chassis was going to be a major job! All I can say is thank God for that screen under the cabinet!!!!!
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:26 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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yea, but that doesnt help when changing the tube! lol.


I wonder, which would be easier. pulling this chassis or pulling moms car motor
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:38 PM
jstout66 jstout66 is offline
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Mike, Good luck with your set. Those Zeniths are pretty tough! I see in an earlier post you wondered if you could use the yoke that was already on the Admiral tube? I'm pretty sure you can't. You sould be able to use the purity stuff tho.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:42 PM
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The purity and blue lateral magnets were universal. I would not try to use the Admiral yoke. The Zenith yokes have two adjustments (at least mine does) that look like fishing line. I have not seen that on any other round yokes. For test patterns, I got a crosshatch, color bars and an indian head and made up a VCD. Unfortunately, the VCD is all I have left of it after my computer crashed after the big Christmas power failure.
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Old 02-22-2005, 12:51 AM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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i coulda recovered your data. im good with that stuff you know.

i got all my data back off of a broken RAID 0
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Old 02-22-2005, 12:52 AM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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i noticed the fishing line. i thought they were used to pull the yoke. oops. oh well

what did they do?
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Old 02-22-2005, 01:19 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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I got the picture tube changed out, and that was a pain in the monkey nut.


But, i let it warm up. and...... WE HAVE A RASTER!!!!!! unrestored chassis.

very insufficiant vertical height, and convergence, purity, all that jaz is messed.

the sound doesnt work either, the only thing working is a severly messed up raster. but, it needs a total recap, so thats to be expected. but however, its usually the other way around. got sound no pic, but me, its the opposite. So, that means the most important parts of the TV are still working.

but, i let it run for a bit. and I saw some magic smoke start comming from the tuner.

hmm. still more work to go. I never got to teh restoration of the chassis yet, but its doing good so far.

Last edited by mbates14; 02-22-2005 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 02-22-2005, 03:03 PM
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The fishin line is how you adjust the rings for centering and purity. They are designed to only go so far, so, dont attempt pulling them past their stops.

Magic smoke from the tuner? That bites! Hopefully it will only be a Black Beauty that's gone south.
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Old 02-22-2005, 04:07 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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nah, the magic smoke was comming from the degausser.

i pulled of the degausser, and bypassed it. it went from a raster down to a line. so, there is evident trouble in teh vertical circuit. The vertical pulse you can still hear loud and clear, but oh well.

Anyway, that motherbucker almost killed me. something is wrong with the grounding, because I came close to the front metal bezal, and got a nice big 10 foot tossing shock while on. something aint right.
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Old 02-22-2005, 04:16 PM
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Chad Hauris Chad Hauris is offline
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Always make sure a CRT grounding spring is installed, connected to the CRT outer graphite coating, and it is grounded to the chassis...or the CRT mounting hardware can charge up to the HV voltage.
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:34 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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i found the problem. The HV went excessive when there was no vertical, and I replaced a cap in the osc section, and cleaned out the yoke and reseated the connections, brought the vertical back to life. most of the set has been recapped already! I know the orange caps arnt stock.


I now have a full raster, and the tuner is dead. Why is it not the IF sections?
well because you know how you change channels right? duh. lol.

if you try your hardest, and if you hold the knob steady between two channels, (its like a sweet spot). you will get snow on the screen, and static sound. which means the IF is working, but if you put it on a channel, nothing. no sound or picture. but clean raster. even with cable or antenna hooked up.


im assuming the mixer/osc is working hence the static and the snow on the screen, but the RF amp tube is not working. but, I dunno. it may be just needing a good cleaning.

but, im getting a little farther in the restoration. The IF and sweep circuits along with the sound is working.

I cannot get the purity right no matter what I do, its a good clean spot from the center to the right of teh screen, they look normal.

the left is wacked out. red is blue, blue is green, and green is mixed. its hard to explain, like a magnet near the tube or something. The internal degausser is shot, so I used my soldering gun, and it still wont clear up. the centering rings hardly make a difference, and I have them placed between grid 3 and 4 according to the manual. I dunno.

Last edited by mbates14; 02-22-2005 at 07:36 PM.
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