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Those Sony's are good TV's and the ones I've had like it had A/V inputs on the back. The GE looks like a "PC" chassis TV and if it is, about the only things you'll have to worry about is a 100uf cap in the vertical circuit and a 100uf cap in the horizontal circuit (both very common failures on that set). The vertical cap was underrated at 50V or 63V. I always replaced it with a 100V 105degree cap and never had a problem. If the 100V cap in the horizontal circuit opens, it can take out the horizontal centering pot and the HOT. In some cases, I've replaced the pot with two 250 ohm, 5 watt resistors. In other cases, the pot shorts to the housing and it will still work if you lift it from the heatsink that it's mounted to. There is another cap close to the vertical yoke plug that will sometimes fail; but, I can't remember the value. Also, the HV electrolytic cap that's in the B+ line to the video output stage will fail and cause a streaky picture that's shaded on one side of the screen. I've seen a few where the flyback would fail in a way that would require the focus control to be turned to it's extreme rotation and then the picture still would not be as sharp as it should be.
Back in '97, I bought 20 knob-tuned PC-chassis GE's from a motel that was upgrading their TV's for $5/each. I fixed 19 of them and sold them from anywhere between $40 (the ones with weaker CRT's) and $75 (the better performing ones)/each. I really miss those days.
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