Sam's shows no matches (though their older paper indexes might).
https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photo...earch&s=Search
If no one else does so before I get home from work, I can check Bietman's most often needed TV index for a schematic.
With cap testers it depends on the tester and the condition of the cap. My Heathkit C3 will usually get the approximate value of a cap unless it is open or nearly dead shorted (very leaky caps usually will test well). Some modern testers will do a poor job on failing vintage caps (and can be damaged if you do not discharge the caps first). That will probably give you the capacitance. The voltage you could obtain by measuring the voltage across each section of the original, and adding 20-30% to it as a safety margin.
Speaking of tolerance most tube era lytics had ~ -50%, +100% capacitance tolerance so anything in the ballpark will be useful (B+ value and circuit performance may be affected).
As for the arcing: With the set off, you will want to discharge the HV*, blow the dust out, then clean everything thoroughly with rubbing alcohol, to get conductive dirt off. Be careful not to break the delicate wires leaving the flyback.
If it is still arcing, try to locate the source and cover it with corona dope or sensor safe silicone. Make sure to scrape away any carbon paths before coating it, if it is arcing along a surface/through an insulator. If any HV wires are arcing they can be replaced.
*Connect the chassis to the HV with preferably a high value resistor (meg ohms) like that found in a HV meter (if you have one it will work well), or in lieu of the resistor short to ground. Note if you short the HV to ground the HV cap can recover a LOT of voltage in a few minutes and may need to be shorted multiple times to stay discharged. It will not recover charge if resistively discharged thus why the resistor is recommended.