[Tubejunke]

OK thanks! This diagram drives home the fact that everyone was right but me. I just wanted to see it in black and white as my Sams's schematic only shows the heater connection. Your schematic clearly shows the corona ring being bonded to pin 1 which is the same as pin 9 where that connection is made on mine with one end of the resistor and the plate cap of the regulator. Makes no difference. So the other end along with the second anode lead are at pin 4 of NC just as we all suspected and as DieselJeep has it.

I didn't get a picture because the initial connector pulled out with the tube clean of solder and somehow I had it stuck in my head that it was on pin 4. Duhhh! GeeZ! When I pulled the assembly apart the split resistor, connector and anode lead fell to the bottom of the cage leaving me with two adjacent open holes. In the name of not looking like a complete idiot; at least I suspected that what I had in mind would have caused some major issues and all of this might have been for nothing.

Thanks once again for advice and more helpful information. My 25LC30/U is not going to serve me well in this. I didn't realize that Zenith had that many design changes in only a few years. The set pictured on my folder looks like my set. Maybe next time I will have good news.

I thought I could get the HV cage off without removing or pulling back the chassis as I got all but one screw out. That one screw is mid way deep and close to the cabinet. Can't win em' all, but removal of the cage will make the job much easier than trying to work through the cover.