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Old 03-21-2017, 11:11 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
I fixed it! TLDR: I'm a dumbass.

While I was out today, I did some soul searching. Given that all the components besides the resistors were checking out, I resolved to test every resistor on the damn thing. A bit of a challenge for me, without a schematic, because I'm color blind. Although my mom and sisters had trouble with the color bands as well, so I feel a little better about myself. Before I bothered taking them off the board, I tested them all in circuit, and they all turned up just fine.

Scratching my head, I thought to myself, if all parts of the unit are good, and I'm testing it correctly, that leaves only one possibility: the test equipment is bad. It occured to me that my alligator test leads are the work of my much-younger self, and yeah, some of them just had the wires wrapped loosely around the clips. But hey, they should work, but I soldered them all anyway. On the very last one, as the iron hit it, the wire fell off, the copper having been broken and only attached by the insulation which melted away.

And of course, I only figured this out after I gave in and ordered a new unit. FML. Oh well, I have plan for the new unit. I have a 1950s Roper I plan on restoring, and I want to eliminate the pilot lights. This unit is perfect because it provides two igniters for burners (that spark continuously) and one for the oven (that sparks until it senses flame).

Thanks for all the input anyway guys!
The last gas range, I bought was a Tappan in 1992. The ignitor was only for the top burners. The oven was lit by a glow plug type device in series with the main gas valve. It was glowing all the time the gas valve was open.
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