its really not that big of a deal to restuff.
My approach is to use a bone saw to cut the can off at the shoulder (leave the can attached, do not disconnect anything.
using a small pin vise drill, drill holes from the under side UP right beside the terminals. you can also drill right besides the mounting tabs. go right thru the can bottom (not the chassis).
fish the radial lead tall skinny cap leads down from the top, soldering the terminals and the grounds as needed.
double check work (polarity, voltage, value)
I can do a 4 section in about 15-20 min. The beauty of this method is it leaves the lead dress and any parts (like resistors or small disk caps) alone, greatly speeding up the process. I think it would take longer if I had a new twist tab cap to install.
I don't bother with replacing the can tops. if you like you can dig out the guts from the top and use some alum duct tape to reattach.
the only real impediment to the process is if you lack good access to the cap with the saw. Also you should cover the chassis with paper towels taped down before sawing to keep the alum chips from gertting everywhere.
demo of the restuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh2yurjt5sM
be very careful with cans that are mounted to insulating mounts. These are found in voltage doubler and as in the video, where the chassis is not the ground.
this is why I like to always attach the caps EXACTLY as the can so the check the can to confirm the polarity (yes there are time when the can may be the positive side). Make sure you connect up the cap so the neg is tagged the same way the can tab is.