[vol.2]

Originally Posted by zeno

A little at a time...... Make as good a B&W pic as you can. Forget
the color for now.

Be sure the cap on source #7 ( 4.7mfd ?) has been changed.
Put real content NOT a generator on it.
Turn off all auto color controls & color control all the way down.
Contrast & bright about 3/4 up.
Be sure you can turn the brite down all the way down to no pix or
very dim pix. If not turn down G-2 a little.
If it looks like it has bad convergence adj the H-STAT control.

Now go to manual & put R-B-G controls at the start point, Make the
pix as B&W as you can. Then we can take it from there.

Ok. I'll start over with it. The yoke got loose at some point while it was in storage so my purity was pooched and I had to mess with it. I got it to a "decent" place, but it could be a little better. It's sorta difficult when pretty much everything needed to be adjusted somewhat to know what to work on first.

The CRT is a low focus type & moving the jumper seldom makes a difference.

Yes, they didn't help, but the "middle" value, which is about 200V is the factory setting, and it's the closest to good focus out of the three. The higher voltage is about 500V, so I figured the most ideal spot would be somewhere between 200-500V, and pot would be useful.

You could use a pot but use a 1 watt & be sure it runs cool !

Does that mean I need to get a 500V, 1 watt pot? It's going to be pretty big, also expensive. Not sure this set is worth that, but it might be interesting as an experiment anyway. I found this one on mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...B2102MAB251S22

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

1) only happens with one DVD? Then it's the DVD. Looks to me like the DVD may be a copy of a videotape that had some defects.

Good point.

2) Since there are similar coils in R,G, and B circuits, you can compare them. One way to detect a shorted coil would be with an ohmmeter, but the low resistance values may be hard to measure accurately. Another thing you could try is connecting a short wire across a coil in the red or green circuit and see if it gives the same effect as you see in the blue. If it does, then try shorting the corresponding blue coil to verify that the added short doesn't change the problem; in other words, the coil in the blue section was already shorted.

By coils, you're referring to the coils on the neck board attached to the RGB output transistors, correct? It's weird, but the service manual and the Sam's both give different values for them, so I'm not actually sure which they should be. I could pull them and measure them. I have an LCR meter. The Sam's says 1.5uH, the Sony manual says 8.2uH. Go figure.

I am only guessing about the possible cause, and you may find that the coils are OK and the problem is something else.

Yeah, that's why I was considering just getting a few new output transistors and replacing them. I'm sure I can find something beefier that will at least be more robust, even if it doesn't fix anything. Maybe a Motorola MPSU10 or something?

3) If you're not seeing a beat pattern, the best bet is that the adjustment is already optimum, so just leave it alone.

Makes sense.

4) Caps that would affect the alignment are small pf values associated with IF coils/transformers, and seldom fail, so are not usually replaced when re-capping. Typically needing recapping are electrolytics and paper caps with much larger values, like nanofarads (thousands of picofarads) and upward to microfarads. If the picture and general operation of the set is OK, alignment is not needed, and is only an educational exercise.

Yeah, the yoke moved around in storage and the purity was garbage. I had to move it around a bit, and then I realized it needed a bit of fine tuning. I'm tyring to sort out what might still be an electrical problem with what's just in need of adjustment.

Thanks everyone. I'm probably going to place another order to Mouser this week, so I'm trying to finalize if I need anything else for this particular project.