I think you have a shorted electrolytic in the B+ system and that it was the start of the problem...I hope the transformer did not die while you were trying to diagnose.
According to the CTC-16 schematics here (
http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...ams_color.html ) the breaker only protects the B+ windings so there almost has to be a short in the B+. I've never seen the H output blow the breaker (I suppose stranger things have happened) usually the flyback or output tube are smoking/redplating and there is no picture long before the breaker's trip point is reached (part of the reason these had a reputation for fly failure). The first couple of times your breaker tripped the power trans was fine...Now you need to check and hope for the best.
How I (strongly) recommend you proceed: 1). Remove the chassis from the cabinet. Disconnect one of the wires from the breaker and cover the end with electrical tape (this disconnects the B+ winding from any short that might be loading it...It would be dangerous to apply power into a short). Power up the chassis with the B+ winding disconnected as described and look for tube heaters to light...If they do skip to #2, if not check AC voltage across the primary (the one the power cord connects to) winding of the power transformer. If the primary has 120V power set off and check the resistance of the primary if open it's dead. If the primary is not getting 120V troubleshoot the wiring between the plug and the primary and fix the open.
2.) remove electrical tape you added at the beginning of #1 but do not reconnect the wire yet. Check AC voltage on the B+ winding of the power trans...it should be normal to high (if more than %30 lower than normal the transformer is bad)...Okay at this point you will have verified a good power transformer and have lit heaters...Now to fix the B+ short.
There are a few ways to find a B+ short. Really bad ones can be found with the ohms mode of a DMM, but the most common source of B+ shorts, capacitors, only short with voltages several times higher than a DMM can apply to them.
If lytics C1 and C2 (or any sections of them) are the original chassis mount can style I would not bother to troubleshoot, but just replace those damn timebombs and be done with it (I'd probably replace every lytic over 15 years old with new while it was on my bench).
If it had new lytics fairly recently then you can troubleshoot it. If you have a tester that can apply full rated voltage to the caps and check for leakage current (you have to disconnect one leg of 2 lead cap for the test to work) that is the safest route. If you don't have a tester you can reconnect the B+ winding to the rectifiers and power the TV up on a variac (probably only need ~30V from the variac). Take voltage measurements from the first lytic off the rectifier and the first 4-5 highest B+ rails. usually a voltage will jump out as being too low...Don't crank the variac beyond 50% till you fix the short.
Two additional things to watch out for: Your thermistor may have gone open as a result of the overload. Your rectifires may have shorted (or less likely opened) from the overload. The first will cause no B+ the second could burn up your transformer.