Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcomm
The extension of full color into fine detail on the CTC2B was startling! Color persisted in fireworks until extinction which I never saw before. The CTC4 fireworks turned into white long before extinction. The CTC2B carried full color way into the shadows, the CTC4 went gray to black.
I'm sure I'll be disappointed with the PQ of network SDTV, but then its free.
Big problem now is the poor quality of off-screen digital camera images. ....So I grab my Canon S40 digital and try to capture what I see. ....If I manage a good shot, its got moiré that I can't get out. .....Tom
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A few comments:
Color saturation on fireworks details - yep, that's what wideband chroma will do for you - you get the same effect only better when you run a digitally mastered DVD through component inputs into a modern set.
Full color into the shadows - actually, in a dark room, any set *should* do that - but the CTC-4 and some other sets after yours apparently had very non-linear chroma amps, since the color control operated by changing the bias of the amplifier tube. We noticed this at ETF when trying to adjust the color level on "The Wizard of Oz."
Screen shots - On the moire' problem, it of course comes from the phosphor dots on the TV screen vs. some other regular structure - maybe the pixel structure of the camera, but maybe in the computer program that is scaling the image for viewing on the computer monitor. Try zooming your viewing program to 1:1 view and see if you have a clean image without moire'. If so, then try looking for some other viewing software. Sometimes the viewing software does a cleaner job of reducing resolution for file storage than for display. Try reducing the resolution and viewing the reduced file. If nothing works, you may need a different camera with more Megapixels. Note also, if you are really clearly resolving the phosphor dots, your image will either look somewhat dark, or the dots will be overexposed since they are only a part of the image area. The latter can ruin the contrast and saturation of the image. [Note: There used to be a similar problem taking film pictures of black and white sets that had clearly resolved scanning lines.] So, examine what you are getting at 1:1, and try reducing the exposure somewhat when you take your pix if necessary. Slightly dark will look better than compressed gray scale and chroma.