No lets start a food fight
On most sets from the mid 60's on I would not recap. Best thing to do
is do only what you need to do to get a raster & evaluate the CRT.
After that there are certain caps that should go. Can caps are often
bad. Most will run hot or be leaking mung out the bottom if bad.
When you get to early solid state sets cans almost never failed.
Example is Zenith CC2 sets. I probably fixed an easy 1000+ of them
and only changed 2 or 3 cans all causing white hum bars due to bad
filtering on the 24 V supply.
Best bet is as you start on your pile post the brand, model & chassis
numbers along with a nudie of the chassis. That way you can be forewarned
of any special care needed when you restart it for the 1st time.
Changing cans in consoles is no different. With Zenith sets from abt
1975 on the chassii were almost the same from 13" - 25". If your 13"
sets are solid states they have a console chassis stuffed into a small
box but still serviceable !
Enuf fer now
73 Zeno
LFOD !
Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks
Thanks so much!
I have about 5 consoles waiting to get started on. Would the electrolytic replacement procedure be the same on those or should I get more practice with table tops before moving on to the consoles? I've got two 13" Zeniths I can do next as well.
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