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Remember most schematics don't reflect some or all production changes (Admiral had MANY), schematics (especially Sam's) had errors/typos, and that if it was factory wired the way it currently is then it is likely to work better being left alone than it will if you make it match the schematic. So it is most advisable to leave the factory wiring config alone till you finish recap and other avenues of troubleshooting.
Also you probably know this, but micas rarely fail and often are in circuits that require re-alignments after cap change (sometimes even lead dress changes can upset it). Leave micas under 1000pF alone unless you have good reason to believe they are bad. Ones over 1000pF often are not really micas, but paper caps in mica's clothing, and as a matter of policy I normally change them.
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