Quote:
Originally Posted by Freon
Do you suggest I try running the set with the cabinet off and maybe even the HV cage open? Definitely too afraid to do that, especially on a carpet floor. I could clear up a table for it, though.
Does anyone know if that 6LF6 I mentioned will be alright? I hope so, it's an expensive replacement. Speaking of tubes, the 6U10 looks like it is barely holding on... looks like almost all of the getter coating is burnt off. Thankfully THAT's a dirt cheap replacement. I will check the 3DB3/3DC3 tomorrow. It won't budge so Im guessing I will have to unscrew the cup first?
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That is exactly what I suggest. Once you loose count of the times HV has bit you (as I have
) you'll still avoid it and respect it, but the fear will fade away.
Unless the plate (large outer element) starts to glow in the dark or the tube arcs internally, if you still have healthy amounts of HV and decent raster width the tube is fine. It can handle the extra load of HV arcing reasonably well...The set that I had to drill out a carbon track from the HV cup on was arcing so bad the raster would disappear from the HV loading down, but the H output tube was fine....Even if your set was worse under 30 seconds of active arcing should not hurt it appreciably....When the going gets tough transistors die instantly, but tubes begrudgingly muddle on for a few minutes before biting it.
Madman: welcome to the world of late 60's-mid 70's hybrid TV chassis. Ever work on a set where there are ~12 tubes about as many discrete transistors, and a DIP IC....All chassis mounted?...I have. The makers had some STRANGE component combos in that transitional era. I know of an instant on knob tuned remote controlled set with tube based sweep and an OSD generated by a large DIP chip. Part of the fun of working on the later sets that the big money collectors scoff at is that you get to see some unique things that you'd never expect to see paired up.