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-   -   Restoration begins on Ed Reitan's CTC-7 (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269144)

etype2 06-10-2017 02:25 PM

Restoration begins on Ed Reitan's CTC-7
 
For those interested, you can follow the restoration at this link. We expect it will take several months. Link:https://visions4netjournal.com/2017/...tv-page-three/

https://visions4netjournal.files.wor...5/img_0298.jpg

BigDavesTV 06-16-2017 09:50 AM

Such a beauty, I'll be watching it's progress, looking forward to someday seeing that great RCA Color!

Electronic M 06-16-2017 11:39 AM

That should be an interesting read. I've always wondered what the control system is like on a Worthington.

The commercial for the Worthington is on youtube. You should play it on yours once the resto is done as a demonstration video....It would be fitting and cool. :thmbsp:

etype2 06-16-2017 01:26 PM

Thanks BigDavesTV.

Electronic M: I saw that video and yes it would be cool. We plan to play Ed Reitan's restored "An Evening With Fred Astaire" on this set as a tribute and do a video about him.

Josef 06-20-2017 04:11 PM

Congratulations to this outstanding set!

I know the YouTube Advertising video for a long time and was curious if one of these sets survived. It's great to see this set in good hands to be restored :thmbsp:

Josef

benman94 06-21-2017 03:16 PM

I'm sorry to hear about the wrong CRT in the set. The 7s and early 9s came with the 21CYP22. The late 9s and all of the 10s came with the 21CYP22A. The "A" version has a strange looking red phosphor.

etype2 06-21-2017 04:30 PM

Josef: Nice to here from our friends in Austria. Thank you.

benman94: I'm okay with it. The tube tests good.

stromberg6 06-21-2017 06:04 PM

Interesting observation about the red phosphor difference between the 21CYP22, and the "A" version of the same CRT. I have an blond Anderson CTC-7B with a very poorly rebuilt (by RCA) "A" tube. The red phosphors tend to look rather dull, and lean toward orange, but not as bad as the 23EGP22 junk from Motorola :thumbsdn:. The green is amazingly bright, and football games look pretty good. The blue appears normal, whatever that is for this particular tube. It's loaded with dead phosphor dots, and doesn't focus well.
I am reminded of discussions about the differences among the 21AXP22, and 21AXP22A about the difference in screen phosphors. Of course we know why the tube was re-designed for HV flash protection, but the phosphor composition of the screens also were changed, IMO. Great thread ! So happy that the set is in good hands! :thmbsp:

zenithfan1 06-21-2017 07:26 PM

The A version also doesn't need the edge purity magnets. Mine are all turned to the defeated position. My 21CYP22A's were rebuilt nicely or are new tubes altogether.

miniman82 06-21-2017 07:28 PM

FWIW I haven't noticed any difference whatsoever between the A and non-A 21AXP22 phosphors, it's just that the earliest versions had a greenish hue to them like the 15GP22 had. The rest of them have that paper white look, and I can't tell the difference with my calibrated eye.

benman94 06-22-2017 08:35 AM

I've done tests with a colorimeter on the following tubes:
  • 15GP22
  • 21AXP22 (green screen)
  • 21AXP22A (paper white screen)
  • 21CYP22 (grey-blue screen)
  • 21CYP22A (grey-blue screen)
  • and finally an early 21FBP22 (puke green screen)

The blue shifts slightly toward violet and away from a more cyan color over the years, the red also shifts toward orange, but the greatest shift is in the green. The P1 "Kelly greens" are gone by the time you get to the 21AXP22A; the green phosphor is already substantially more yellow, and the trend gets worse with time.

The persistence of the phosphors seemed to vary somewhat as well, with some tubes, like the 21CYP22A having a bit more lag (something I've noticed, and apparently Pete Deksnis has as well according to his website).

The strange red phosphor I'm referring to in the 21CYP22A blows out to orange with high beam current more readily than the non-A version, at least in my experience. But, the 21CYP22A is much, much brighter than the non-A version. You pays your money and you takes your choice.

I'm unusually picky about how my color sets are set up however; I always drag out a colorimeter to set the white point, check grey-scale tracking, and I ONLY watch my sets in a blackened room. If you're eyeballing the grey-scale and watching in a room with any light, you more than likely will never notice the smaller differences between the CRTs, only the larger ones (say the difference between a 15G and a 21FB).

etype2 06-22-2017 12:21 PM

Appreciate the comments from veterans who know these sets intimately. I'm learning from you. Thanks stromberg6.

We have had our sets calibrated by ISF (Image Science Foundation) since the purchase of a Mitsubishi 40 inch CRT over 20 years ago and appreciate the improvements after calibration.

Because of the rarity of the ageing 15GP22 trough 21FBP22 sets, just happy we can finesse a decent image at all.

Viewing and evaluating color sets (especially old CRT sets) in darkened rooms is well taken and a must for screen shots in my opinion.

jstout66 06-23-2017 08:51 AM

Good luck, and it will be fun to see the progress. Several years ago, my friend had a Worthington that I helped him list on eBay. I can't remember what it brought (I think a tad under $1000) However... I was upset with many of the members here at that time, because a few of the "elites" started tearing that set apart and there was a huge controversy weather the legs had been shortened on his or not. (they weren't) and I can see from the pictures of yours, that they didn't have long legs on them at all. It was the typical "Oh.. a rare set is listed, so lets make something up in hopes we can get it for $10.00, but we sure won't want to drive more than 50 miles to get it" Ed's Omaha house was just around the corner from my friends and he even looked at the set and said it was fine. I wonder who ended up buying my friends. I just remember they paid Creighters and Freighters to come pick it up.

Sandy G 06-23-2017 09:59 AM

Maybe its just MOI, but there's just SOMETHING extra special in one of these VERY early roundies.. I'm sure that even the great Gen Sarnoff' s posterior was beginning to get a bit TOASTY, especially since Sarnoff had sold RCA's bankers on this whole "Color" bit, & , up ttil... then, Color had been a big, nasty THUD

Findm-Keepm 06-23-2017 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benman94 (Post 3185711)
I've done tests with a colorimeter on the following tubes:
  • 15GP22
  • 21AXP22 (green screen)
  • 21AXP22A (paper white screen)
  • 21CYP22 (grey-blue screen)
  • 21CYP22A (grey-blue screen)
  • and finally an early 21FBP22 (puke green screen)

The blue shifts slightly toward violet and away from a more cyan color over the years, the red also shifts toward orange, but the greatest shift is in the green. The P1 "Kelly greens" are gone by the time you get to the 21AXP22A; the green phosphor is already substantially more yellow, and the trend gets worse with time.

The persistence of the phosphors seemed to vary somewhat as well, with some tubes, like the 21CYP22A having a bit more lag (something I've noticed, and apparently Pete Deksnis has as well according to his website).

The strange red phosphor I'm referring to in the 21CYP22A blows out to orange with high beam current more readily than the non-A version, at least in my experience. But, the 21CYP22A is much, much brighter than the non-A version. You pays your money and you takes your choice.

I'm unusually picky about how my color sets are set up however; I always drag out a colorimeter to set the white point, check grey-scale tracking, and I ONLY watch my sets in a blackened room. If you're eyeballing the grey-scale and watching in a room with any light, you more than likely will never notice the smaller differences between the CRTs, only the larger ones (say the difference between a 15G and a 21FB).

Just curious, but were any of the CRTs prefixed with RE? There was a time in the TV repair world where "RE" tubes were shunned out of ignorance, with technicians believing the tubes to be "rebuilt" tubes vice those with the newer/replaced Rare Earths, with increased brightness and deeper reds. They made the scene i the 1960s, with RCA and Sylvania touting the improve characteristics of the tubes.

http://www.americanradiohistory.com/...-Page-0026.pdf

The funniest part is that rare earths were already in use, it's just the shift to different rare earths (and marketing) that brought about the prefix.

Sylvania advertised the tubes and mentioned the prefix, but still many techs stuck to the ignorant idea that they were rebuilds. Somewhere there is a Jack Darr or Art Margolis article about the fallacy/idiocy...

When I started back in the 1970s, all I ever saw was rebuilt tubes from Channel Master and Empire Video, so the tube labels with any identifying info were long gone..


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