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-   -   Needed - Chassis - D160255-4450293 Sylvania 1971. (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=262491)

rodmonster 08-29-2014 12:48 AM

Needed - Chassis - D160255-4450293 Sylvania 1971.
 
Model - CL813P1
Chassis - D160255-4450293
SAMS - 1178-3

Looking for a chassis that can replace the above. My board fried and I really want to bring the set back to life.

rca2000 08-29-2014 01:04 AM

So basically....you are in need of a D16 chassis. Sylvania.

None have. Have a nice D-12 set, that is going NOWHERE. I have waited on one since 1982. This one has a good tube and is remote...that one in 1982 was a 'plain jane" set.

STILL waiting for an E01 or E02 set...

sampson159 08-29-2014 09:25 PM

how bad is your board?those sets were well built and pretty reliable.worked n a bazillion of them and never saw one that was fried.

rodmonster 08-29-2014 10:55 PM

fried pic
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sampson159 (Post 3113798)
how bad is your board?those sets were well built and pretty reliable.worked n a bazillion of them and never saw one that was fried.

Its fried here.

Jon A. 08-29-2014 10:55 PM

I'd say whoever looked at your TV most recently is BSing you. If I were in your shoes I'd be posting some pictures and let the pros here help. Also, you may want to post about issues regarding this set in the rectangular screen forum from now on. The topics will be easier to find that way.

Oops, simultaneous post, heh. Never mind the picture advice.

rodmonster 08-29-2014 11:02 PM

area
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon A. (Post 3113807)
I'd say whoever looked at your TV most recently is BSing you. If I were in your shoes I'd be posting some pictures and let the pros here help. Also, you may want to post about issues regarding this set in the rectangular screen forum from now on. The topics will be easier to find that way.

Oops, simultaneous post, heh. Never mind the picture advice.

So that area there could be fixed - even with it being burnt up that bad?

Jon A. 08-29-2014 11:10 PM

As long as a competent person is working on it, absolutely. To the locals who have been in it, this set is likely "old junk" and was dismissed as such.

rodmonster 08-29-2014 11:28 PM

Well
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon A. (Post 3113809)
As long as a competent person is working on it, absolutely. To the locals who have been in it, this set is likely "old junk" and was dismissed as such.

I don't think he dismissed it. He is one of the VK folks here i just recently met. He may just not have the knowledge on how to repair the board without replacing it.
I know he knows a good bit. I have seen his other sets and they are beautiful... of course in his defense - he does primarily focus on TVs from the 40s and 50s - so my newer (1971) color is not what he is used to.

So - anything you could tell me on how i could get it repaired so that i could get the board to work again?

Jon A. 08-29-2014 11:35 PM

Unfortunately no, I've done little more than read on the subject of TV repair as I'm still lacking some supplies. One thing's for sure, whoever does get it going again is going to need experience with printed circuit boards and be able to think outside the box. I would say that the loss of horizontal sync you had a while back was due to more than a tube. I had a suspicion that something else was overloading. Did it burn right under where that tube goes?

rodmonster 08-29-2014 11:36 PM

yes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon A. (Post 3113815)
Unfortunately no, I've done little more than read on the subject of TV repair as I'm still lacking some supplies. One thing's for sure, whoever does get it going again is going to need experience with printed circuit boards and be able to think outside the box. I would say that the loss of horizontal sync you had a while back was due to more than a tube. Did it burn right under where that tube goes?

Yup - right under that spot

Jon A. 08-30-2014 12:07 AM

Sounds like it's either loss of grid drive or a shorted flyback transformer causing red-plating of the horizontal output tube. All I can say in regards to repairs is that the area is going to have to be cleaned up somehow and the burned-up traces jumped; the area may even need some kind of reinforcing. The underlying issue is going to have to be fixed first though.

sampson159 08-30-2014 09:30 AM

jon a is exactly right on this.this is not "fried".when you have a hole burned through is "fried".fairly common looking.this area has much heat and will be discolored even under normal operation.this particular model d16 was the very one that made people notice sylvania.the crts were excellent and made a beautiful picture.the following year brought the slide control model.same chassis with slides for color,brightness and tint.some had perma-lock and some had automatic afc.these were the finest tube set they made and equally as good as the zeniths of the era.love to find one of these!

Electronic M 08-30-2014 01:27 PM

The H out socket and traces on my d16 are crispier than that, and only one trace needed to be jumped to fix it. As long as the traces are not open or shorted together it makes NO difference how ugly it looks (matter of fact those traces could be fine as is). The others are right that sets that put the output socket on board are, with few exceptions, all heat discolored like that...Matter of fact if my board ever breaks where the socket is (such as the socket falls through the board) then I'll chassis mount a new socket, jumper it to the board, and fix any damage on the board. Why, because it is a hell of a lot easier to find another socket and do the work to chassis mount it then it is to find another board.

rodmonster 08-30-2014 02:25 PM

so
 
So are you saying to just put the tube back in and solder the socket in place and it may still work?

DaveWM 08-30-2014 02:57 PM

all depends on what what failed. a good tube tech would know what to do.
generally you look for damage, put a meter on the HO cathode and do a start watching for excessive current flow. IF if failed due to a bad tube then all that may be needed is a new tube. IF it failed due to no drive, then diagnosis will be to determine the problem.

If it was mine I would prob just put a tv analyst on the fly plate lead and see if the FLY is ok 1st as that is the quickest. then do a metered variac and cathode current check on the HO tube.


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