Zenith Green Halo
 

What's the best and method to remove bonded safety glass from 20" zenith color tube to remove green halo?
Perry

I've never actually done it, but some here will say to use a hot piano wire to cut through the material. I have successfully removed a green halo using a heat gun, but there is a high risk of cracking the glass with that method. It works perfectly for the RCA style though.

Most tubes don't even need the wire or tube to be hot! I've done it with a cold wire on a 45f night. Having warm sun on the face can be beneficial to the ease of the process.

I use no. 18 steel guitar string. I had a video on photobucket, but photobucket don't work right anymore.

Once the safety glass has separated peeling/cleaning the glue off the 2 surfaces can be a much bigger undertaking than the easy string cutting process.

What Tom said.

I put the tube face up in a plastic garbage can, and covered it in a black plastic garbage bag to let it get warm in the sun, for a few hours. Then, I removed the garbage bag, and used a guitar string, wirh a handle on either end made from a length of dowel, to saw through the silicone, starting from one corner and working my way to the opposite corner. I had a few strings snap on me, make sure you have some spares.

Removing the silicone takes a mix of elbow grease, frustration, acetone, alcohol, plastic scrapers, finger nails, and every other solvent I could find, along with hours of scrubbing. The really deteriorated stuff comes off easy but the inside part was about like cleaning half a pound of butter burned on to the bottom of a stainless steel saucepan.

Then I used four pieces of foam tape to elevate the safety glass off the tube, and then caulked around the edge with clear caulking.

During the whole process, I wore thick coveralls, and a full face shield, with particular attention given to protecting my neck. Speaking of necks, never lift the crt by its neck or apply any pressure to it.

The result was excellent and I would do this job again, but be aware it's a pretty major job which has some risk associated with it, and you shouldn't forget that it the tube legs go, it could be fatal if you don't take every possible precaution.

Zenith Green Halo
 

Thanks very much for your answers.
Perry

Let us know how it goes, that's an ambitious job.. Must be a very worthy tv

Zenith Green Halo
 

It's a 20" Color Zenith metal table top SC600 From 1968 Model Y6206W CRT very strong.
Perry

I would also advise putting a lot of weight in the bottom of the garbage can to prevent tipping over the top-heavy CRT-in-a-can by pets or children, or even yourself when performing the operation. 10 or so gallons of water would work well.

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Ah, I forgot to mention that part, I had a bunch of bricks in there. This is a very good point!

leave it alone and get used to it. I don't like the idea of removing the bonding material on a zenith without replacing it. I don't think they were ever designed to operate that way. Banding could be an option if the specs were known. I have found that the green on the zeniths to just not bee that big a deal.

I did that for 3 years on a daily use set...By the time I had practiced enough to fix the cat on that favorite set I was completely sick of the green ring. That set has been 3' away from my bed for more than 5 years since I fixed the cataract. It has been through a house move, bumped, shaken, jumped on, frozen and heated beyond human comfort, face exposed to uneven direct sun light from windows, and ran countless hours...It is still fine, and I don't worry about it...The only way I see that tube going is by intentional destruction by human(s), or the cathodes wearing out from overuse (inevitable).

Some mid-late 70's 23V tubes from Zenith consoles did not yellow. I know my 1971 with a 23VATP22 is the standard shade of chartreuse like most by now. I had a 23VCMP22 I traded to another VK member that had no hint of yellow. It saw sunlight, heat and cold.