Crosley 9-403M Restoration
 

Time to start another restoration. This one will be my Crosley 9-403M.
S/N 1528 112320.

Overall the tv is in good shape. The cabinet is in great shape except for some scratches on the side and a small piece of missing veneer in one of the top rear corners. All easily taken care of.

BTW, no back. Anybody have a picture of one so I can make a back for this tv?

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The chassis looks like it has never been worked on underneath. No evidence of any work. Of course there were some tube changes along the way.

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The metal chassis has the usual plating dust all over it. Everything steel has it. A quick trip to the quarter car wash and most of it is cleaned away. Though the metal will have to be scrubbed clean.

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The chassis looks like it was made from galvanized steel. It appears that something has "run" on the surface of the chassis. This makes me think it's from the galvanizing process.

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Now the one bit of bad news. When I got this tv I did a quick check on the CRT. It checked real good! Problem was is that the 10BP4 CRT is gassy. Yup, there is a purplish glow around the inside diameter of the tube. BTW, this tube is a rebuild. I have several 10BP4's that checked good from "donor" tv's.

Ah, it has one of them new-fangled invisible CRT's. Nice.

Crosley
 

Safer that way, no worries about implosion!:yes::D:D

Very nice looking Crosley, best wishes as you restore it!

What are the dimensions of the set? I may have a back that would work.

The width would be 20 1/2 inches and the height of 10 1/4 inches. I got the height from "witness marks" on the back edge of the cabinet.

I used a 1/2 inch square piece of hard maple to make a "stand" while I work on the underneath part of the chassis. I removed the tuning scales to keep them safe. I then tape some folded over paper towels to the top of the power transformer and to the top of the HV cage to protest them while inverted.
I used an existing hole in the chassis and bolted on a small cross-member so the stand will stay in place.
Much easier to work on when it is this way.

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I also use some spacers that I make up so I can grab the chassis when upright.

These spacers are 1" x 1/2" with a 3/16 hole down the middle. I then use a 5/16 drill bit and counter bore a hole about 1/4 deep. Then I round the "bottom" corner to prevent it from digging into my bench top.

For the hardware I use some #10 (3/16) x 1 1/2 long countersink head 10-24 bolts. I also use some 10-24 nylon lock nuts. Using my disc sander I reduce the head diameter so it'll fit into the counter bored hole.

Then the spacer is bolted to the chassis. Works great and I can grab and lift the chassis much easier. Been doing this type of thing for awhile now. Works great!

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As my usual practice, I labeled all the tubes, resistors, capacitors, coils, inductors, and transformers according to the Sams docs. I also label all the terminal strips.

There was only 1 resistor that was in the chassis that wasn't covered in the Sams. See if you can spot it in picture #2. I also found a mistake with the value with C56. Sams has it listed as a .002uf while it should be a .003uf which was installed and Riders has it listed as a .003uf.

Now I'm ready to start re-stuffing the E-Caps.

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While I'm posting pictures I thought I would show you guys 2 capacitors that this set uses.

C35 is a 4pf IF Coupling capacitor. C26 is a 2.5pf IF coupling capacitor.

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That set is a Dumont made or at least a Dumont based design. Dumont loved those zip-cord capacitors. One or two of my RA-103 chassis used those zip cord caps, the other used a regular capacitor.

O_o weirddddd.

I'm guessing the 'zip-cord' cap is to capacitors what fusible links are to fuses?

Also called gimmick capacitors. The (very small) capacitance depends on the wire length and how it is twisted/bent. So don't bend them into cute new animal shapes.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Seeing it is a Dumont based design, should it be a good playing tv?

Yup, gimmick capacitors. I won't bend them out of shape.

BTW, could I just use some micas instead?

I forgot to post this picture of the chassis with everything labeled.

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