slyvania roundie
 

Photos soon (got to find the camera).

the goood and the bad and the odd...

The good is the cabinet, very nice. Also the chassis, no rust or other damage, looks like the set was nver moved.

the bad

CRT is acting flakey, red gun pulses, socket glue is loose, Fly is toast (burned up), flame and smoke on the intial test run.

the odd

the CRT was unpluged, hmmm, most of the screws were missing from the back.

My guess is someone tried plugging it in, and after smoke came out it decided in typical DA logic that unpluging the CRT (and prob breaking the socket joint) would make it ok. Just a guess, OR at some time the CRT was tested, and at that time the fly was also bad so the owner just told the service guy to button it up and not fix.




I am searching my stash of flys and have put out some calls. it takes a fly 277. the sylvania PN is 50-16016-1. hopefully I can find one or cobble something togehter. I am not sure what to make of the CRT. Hope its not on its last legs.

Sounds like a nice score!

FWIW, there is a NOS Thordarson FLY-277 available for $1 here:

http://www.collectibles-articles.com...541510134.html

fly and back

wow! you are so lucky that flyback didnt start that magnesium chassis on fire and burn your garage and all your other sets up. This what happens when the manufactures dont bother to put fuses and use highly flammable metal chassis.

Fly 277 has to be the most desirable of all the flys. Not much chance of getting one of those, I have seen them on ebay but they grab a hefty price. I love the sweet smell of burning flybacks, please send me the old one

Try re-flowing the solder on the CRT pins, also, add a little new solder and that intermittent may disappear. Two part epoxy is good for gluing the socket back to the glass. Looks like she'll be a nice one.....Sylvania made some nice stuff.

This appears to be an RCA CTC15 clone...

If it is, I have a few of those flybacks in the RCA brand, NOS. The RCA part number is 113382.

PM me if you want one.

What are the main differences between the ctc15 and 16 other than the hv rectifiers connection to the flyback?

Almost nothing.

I figured. It looks like most of the parts are electrically identical between all the rca clone round tube sets and rectangular tube sets, but not between round and rectangular. Seems like 80% of the sets were basically RCA circuit designs.

PM Sent

Besides a major physical reconfiguration of the HV cage and relocation of the 6BK4, The 16 was the first with auto-degauss.

And as a matter of course on both CTC-15 and 16, always reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. These crack and cause the 6GU7 heaters to go out. This is also true of the CTC-17 and 25.
oc

Unfortunately, that site is one of those Ebay-reposting-conglomeration-with-their-own-ads pages. It showed the flyback as available, but the real Ebay auction ended in March...

Is it really magnesium, or were you using poetic license?

Phil "just curious" Nelson

I hear it's up before the poetic license Review Board.

:twak:

update. I managed to find a fly in my stash that was close, so while waiting for the correct fly from another member I was able to get it up and running. the HV was a bit low, and width was low (cathode current was about 175ma, basicly I had NO head room for bright scenes). Everything was working as it should but for the lack of headroom (the shunt tube current would drop to 0 on max bright scenes, and the HV would sag to about 19kv.

I received another flyback (the correct one) from a VK member, and just finished installing all the parts to it, and reinstalling the assy. I left my test fly intact as I know it works "somewhat". The only think I did was to use a miller focus coil 6350 instead of the orig since the orig was on the subbed fly, and like I said I did not want to disturb that until I get a chance to at least try the correct fly.

the only other issues were a weak contrast cap, and the normal weak color amp grid caps (.01's the one on the middle of the board seems to always be weak.

the vert lin was a bit to close to the end of the range, the 2.2meg resistor had drifted up to over 2.4, not much but as long as I am in it I replace that.

the vert electro cap tested fine. the doublers test ok, but were a bit slow to fully open, for example a new cap of the same value would open in about 13 seconds, the old ones would take about 30. I have all the caps I need to completely rebuild all the cans and will prob do that later...

only thing left to do is replace the 2kv tube cap on the primary of the audio out, its one of those ceramic tube types.

once I do that I will do the whole HV setup again and hopefully will have the head room to keep the HV constant.