When I was a kid we had a set just like that. This was in the early 70s. Oure didnt have the legs on it. It sat right on the floor. It broke down a few times and my dad would tinker with and get it working again. He finally got tired of messing with it and got rid of it,probably about 73 or 74. It sat in the back of an old store building he owned for several yaers and then it finally got tossed. It would be nice to have it back now.
John

They are shorter than the picture in the brochure - don't know if they could be substitutes.

Here's a quick look in the back. I thought the flyback cover was gone - turns out it was stuck beside the chassis along with the screens from the bottom openings. For some reason, I didn't hear them bouncing around when it was carried in.

Can anyone tell me where the date code would be on this "Colorama" tube? Hidden under the yoke or cover perhaps?

Old_tv_nut-

I am going to be repairing a CTC-5 that I got from another AK member recently, and it does not have the flyback cover. Could you take a few pictures of just the cover for me while yours is off? I will need to make one for mine. Thanks for your help.

Chris

Here are views from each edge, and being installed - looks like it needs a long screw to fasten at the near left corner as viewed here.

Hi I see the cover from here.

Thank you! I really appreciate the pictures. "14 views"-it looks like others have wanted to see them as well. :)

Just found this post,, very very nice set indeed!
Dan

Now for a littlle cold water - just drove 60 mi and back to borrow the CRT tester from DRH, and found out I shouldn't have bothered because the heater is open. (measures 180k ohms, actually - don't know where that is coming from). NO visible heaters when the tester is attached.

Has the tube gone to air? I can't tell - doesn't spark or anything when the tester is applied, but I suppose the tester voltage may be too low to do that.

Does anyone know if anyone is rebuilding metal cone 21AXP22A CRTs? (And is it worth bothering if it went to air, in case it has an air leak at the face seal?)

Tried knocking on the base a bit with no results. Anyone with experience that some other treatment (e.g. heating the pins?) might have success?

Anyhow, unless I could find a CRT, working on the rest of the set is not such a rush job anymore. :pity:

I'm sorry to hear that, truly a bummer. :sigh:

You could try heating the pins and dabbing a little solder on the ends so it wicks into the pin, I'm doubtful though in this case.

How hard is it to remove the yoke?
The getter is somewhere in that area, usually a ring of clear glass on the neck with the getter showing through.

Yes by all means try soldering the heater pins. I have had at least a couple of bad solder joints on the filiment pins. Heat it up with a 100 watt iron and let it suck some solder into the tip of the pin. If the original solder connection was marginal, it is possible that the heat of the tube combined with the heavy current of 3 filiments going through the pins, may have caused the solder joint to fail.

Hawkeye can rebuild it if it is under vacuum. He can not guarantee that it will be a success, because sometimes a metal tube will crack the face of the tube during the rebuilding. That said, another AK member has had Hawkeye do a successful rebuild of a 21axp22 and was very pleased with the results. I believe the cost is about $350 plus shipping.

Good luck and let us know what you find. Hope it has not gone to air.

If the getter flash still appears mirror-like, then the tube is certainly under vacuum. If it's milky-colored and is flaking off, then the tube is garbage.

I'm sorry to hear this news-the fact it is not infinity could be reason to have hope. Let us know how you do with pin resoldering, etc.

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It sounds like you have a high resistance connection in the base. On several occasions I had to remove the base and re-tin the oxidated leads. Fred