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-   -   Knight KG-687 Sweep/Marker Generator (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269068)

Crist Rigott 05-25-2017 11:13 PM

Knight KG-687 Sweep/Marker Generator
 
Guys,
I could use an Operator's Manual. I have the assembly manual and a schematic.

Also does anybody know if the test leads that are coax is it RG58?
Thanks.

Crist Rigott 05-26-2017 04:54 PM

I'm trying to ID a Zener Diode. It is CR-5 in the parts list with a number SZ11714. Here is a section of the schematic where it is used. Any ideas what it is? Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaqwgepy.jpg

Notimetolooz 05-27-2017 10:47 AM

I can reverse engineer it. So you know it is a 24V zener. From the current through R61, 40V-24V= 16V. 16/220 = 72.7 ma. If the circuit fed by the 24V was removed, (some kind of a malfunction), the zener power dissipation would be 24V X 0.0727A = 1.745 W. Call it 2 Watt. So look for a 24V, 2 W zener. Mouser has a 2EZ24D5-TP by MCC. This might be overkill but at least it could handle the current if something goes wrong.

Crist Rigott 05-27-2017 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz (Post 3184538)
I can reverse engineer it. So you know it is a 24V zener. From the current through R61, 40V-24V= 16V. 16/220 = 72.7 ma. If the circuit fed by the 24V was removed, (some kind of a malfunction), the zener power dissipation would be 24V X 0.0727A = 1.745 W. Call it 2 Watt. So look for a 24V, 2 W zener. Mouser has a 2EZ24D5-TP by MCC. This might be overkill but at least it could handle the current if something goes wrong.

Cool! 24V 2W. Thank you.

Crist Rigott 05-28-2017 07:58 PM

I'd like to add a BNC so that my frequency counter can read the marker frequency. However I have no idea as to where to "pick off" the signal. Below is a link to a hi-res schematic of the KG-687. Maybe somebody with a lot more knowledge can use the schematic and figure it out.

Many thanks.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d9uq4v8zda...matic.pdf?dl=0

Notimetolooz 05-29-2017 09:19 PM

I believe someone on the other forum suggested the point between C18 and R33. That seems reasonable. If you have a scope you can check, if the scope can display the frequency well enough. Also you could just try a makeshift connection to your counter. It would probably be a good idea to put a 100pf cap in series with the connection to the counter for DC blocking and isolation. If the signal is large enough, a 100 ohm resistor in series with the line to the BNC would help isolation also, so the counter doesn't load the marker so much it doesn't work right.

Crist Rigott 05-29-2017 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz (Post 3184678)
I believe someone on the other forum suggested the point between C18 and R33. That seems reasonable. If you have a scope you can check, if the scope can display the frequency well enough. Also you could just try a makeshift connection to your counter. It would probably be a good idea to put a 100pf cap in series with the connection to the counter for DC blocking and isolation. If the signal is large enough, a 100 ohm resistor in series with the line to the BNC would help isolation also, so the counter doesn't load the marker so much it doesn't work right.

Thanks Tim. I see the post on the other Forum. Been very busy lately with family.
I'll try the cap and the resistor too when I get around to changing out the E-caps first. Maybe this coming week.

Crist Rigott 06-01-2017 12:21 AM

What kind of diodes are these? The parts lists them as Silicon with a number of FR-1P.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psetcphebs.jpg

N2IXK 06-01-2017 09:28 AM

Look like typical 1960s/70s Japanese silicon rectifiers. I believe the manufacturer was "Origin".

Should be no problem replacing them with a generic 1N4007.

Crist Rigott 06-01-2017 04:40 PM

Great. Thanks.


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