Probably natural, but from the years and heat. Mike is concerned about the heat in the cage. It has no ventilation holes, unlike the CTC-2B. He is going to add ventilation by drilling holes and adding a fan.

When I asked Mike why RCA would engineer a flyback with no ventilation, I said was this a money grab to get repair tech's to the home, he said, "well the fly backs were readily available but possibly to minamize arcing."

Still want a backup when this one fails.

The ctc 7 was my 1st color set, that set used to pop 5u4's like Christmas tree bulbs.

Nick Williams has mentioned time and time again that these sets need to be run between 115 VAC and 117 VAc to avoid stressing components, and I wholeheartedly agree with him. If you dial back the line voltage, a CTC-7 will run forever and a day without popping a 5U4, or worse, a flyback or some other unobtainable part. I use a 500 VA Sola CVT for the job. I get a rock solid 117 VAC regardless of what Detroit Edison is doing.

It's a 10-15 minute job to properly adjust the horizontal drive control, linearity slug, and HV adjustment control, but few people take the time to actually do it. Recapping is not enough. A happy horizontal section is less likely to nuke a flyback...

I agree as well. Why not take the extra step to try and protect something that is hard to replace? Yes, pro and con. It's an insurance policy.

Our entire A/V system is protected, cleaned and filtered by a Furman DSP Model IT-Reference 7. In part, we credit the longevity of a 6 year old flat panel which is run 18 hours a day, every day since purchase with over 39K hours on it. That plus doing an ISF calibration to tone down the retina burning images of an off the self unit.

There is a service tag from 1966 in the CTC7 cabinet. I've been told the set sat idle for many years in a controlled AC environment. The set when purchased was stuck,on channel 10.

You'd be surprised how much horizontal cathode current changes with just a few volts difference AC input, it can mean the difference between a hot sweaty flyback and an ice cool happy one. Having said that, I also agree that going through the horizontal circuit setup procedure is essential to proper operation. Beware faulty parts though, the 7 I sold Ed in Buffalo always had cathode current slightly higher than I would have liked. He later told me he replaced the LIN coil and it dropped even father, which I can only attribute to either copper winding breakdown (the wire itself increasing in resistance), or the slug losing permeability over time.

I guess the lesson there is don't assume your flyback is toast because it's drawing more current than you'd like, failure of some other part is always an option.

It is my opinion that copper wire corrosion in the HV cage is not uncommon. I had this problem on my Hallicrafter 820 set. I think this is exacerbated inside the HV cage due to corona that can cause ozone, which is highly corrosive. A small knick in the varnish covering the wire can expose bare copper which will oxidize over time and physically weaken the wire.

Thanks. The insulation broke away with very little effort exposing this broken wire coming out of the windings.https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...8/DSC_5996.jpg

After repair.https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...8/DSC_5998.jpg

Nice, but I would j hook the copper wire to make the connection long term stable. In your case it could be better not to touch the connection any more to avoid further damage. I usually clean flybacks (from our european b&w sets) with WD40 to protect them from moisture and soften dried out isolations. Take care if there are carbon track pots and don't use WD40 in this case.

The thing looks so fragile. We don't know if the wire broke just then, when the insulation fell away or if it was pre-existing. The set was working well prior to the discovery. Hate to think about the condition of the rest of it.

I have two extra ctc 9 Chassis with good flys.

Also my first. I lived in an apartment block with 1920s wiring, and the line was usually below 110 volts. I put a pair of GZ-34/5AR4s in my 7, along with a line thermistor. Never had another problem with sweep "shrinkage". :thmbsp:

Would they work in a CTC-7 late model?

The restoration of Ed Reitan’s CTC-7 Worthington is completed.

Mike Doyle brought the two chassis’s, master control panel and remote back today. After reinstalling everything, we double checked the emissions of the 21CYP22A CRT. At full emissions, all three guns were pegged and at cut off all three guns were good on the meters. Next, a full complete setup. Mike did the alignment at his shop.

We loaded a DVD, powered the set up and were rewarded with very well saturated colors. We are pleased to say that both the wired control panel and the remote control work well on all 14 functions. Since this is a mechanical servo driven system, there is lag in the response time and it’s noisy. We used two 3 volt photo batteries in the remote and swapped out the one transistor.

All that remains is to touch up the convergence at the extreme left and right and reduce the image size.

I’m very pleased with the results and now, on to producing the video playing “An Eveing With Fred Astaire” on Ed Reitan’s former television. Tap on any image for full view.

To view full resolution images of the below screenshots, go to this link:

https://visions4netjournal.com/2017/...-carousel-3614

It’s an image carousel which loads full size images.





https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...92CF53514.jpeg

Damn good looking set. Very nice picture.