I have an old Sylvania CK3000 "chek-a-color" test rig, bag of adaptors, and a sales brochure. The unit will support "roundie" color sets with the A-112 (CRT Adaptor), A-113 (Yoke Adaptor), B-207 (Yoke Extension), B-230 (CRT Extension) plus one each of the YP-X (Yoke Programmer) and CVL-X (Convergence Ballast) plugs. I've got all the standard adaptors and YP/CVL plugs plus some of the later-model rectangular-tube plugs/cords, but no Setup Maual or User's Guide. The sales brochure says that the B-230 with the A-112 adaptor and B-207 with A-113 are designed for 70-degree color tube applications, but there's no cross-reference of which YP and CVL adaptor is to be used with which make and model of color chassis. Anyone have the manuals available? I'm still around, doing restorations part-time as a hobby/second job. I'm back in the telecom industry, working administration at an "inbound" (customer service / tech support) call center full-time.

Could we leave the male Chauvinism out please...some of us men do all of the housework plus multiple jobs.

It seems that some people missed the point of the comments I had made about why I've only been working part-time with vintage electronics lately.

It took me about two years to get through the "very dark night" that I was told by another widower would come after Jan's sudden passing. Now, I'm dealing with the inevitable bumps in the road that come with a new relationship. I'm among some old friends in my telecom job, though. Basically, this place is like a reunion of displaced MCI customer service reps. Most of us are in Administration now, though.

Getting back on topic, I'll be checking with several sources to find some setup documentation for the CK3000 and will share some of the most useful information here. Anyone else who might happen to find a CK3000 with all its standard cables could easily use it to speed up the restorations of their roundie sets if we posted which YP and CVL adaptors would fit CTC-7, 24MC32, etc. It will be a good teaching tool when my son is ready to explore the more complex circuitry of television sets. He's doing nicely with radio, hi-fi and music gear.

For the CTC 7 chassis here is the setup:
YP12
A-112 with B207 yoke extension
direct convergence adapter
CVL1 ballast
A113 with B230 CRT extension

For the 24MC32 use the following setup:
YP12 yoke programmer
A112 with B207 yoke extension
C319 or CC19 convergence adapter
CVL1 ballast
A113 with the B230 CRT extension

The RCA setup will be the same for the 7,9,10,11,12,15,16, and 20 chassis.
The Zenith setup will be the same for the 24mc32, 24mc42, 24nc31, 25lc20, 25lc30, 25mc30, 25mc33, 25mc43, 25mc70, 26kc20, 27kc20, 29jc20 Chassis.

Hope this helps,
Bill R.

Thank you for the setup info. I'll review the schematics of the Admiral and Philco chassis I'm currently servicing and determine whether their similarity to RCA's design would indicate that their setup is similar to that of RCA. I suspect that Sylvania might be similar to RCA as well. If I'm not mistaken, almost everyone EXCEPT for Zenith was manufacturing sets whose circuitry was almost identical to RCA's designs under license from RCA subsidiary "Hazeltine Corp." from about 1958-1968.

If you post the chassis number I have the setup guide and can post the information.
The Philco will likely be the same I don't know about the Admiral.

Bill R

Thanks. The Philco chassis is 16M91 and the Admiral is a 26UH6.

The setup guide does not list the Philco or Admiral chassis numbers. I suspect the Philco is a CTC15 clone, and would use the RCA setup. That Admiral is likely also a clone of one of the RCA chassis.

With many thanks to Ray, who posted the entire setup manual in reply to a USENET message I posted some time ago, I'll pass along the URL for the location of the manual. I just used the CK3000 to check out another roundie chassis (Admiral 25UH-series) which had an intermittent issue with color sync. The CK3000 allows much more systematic probing, tapping, and prodding to pin down touchy intermittents than would be possible with the chassis inside the cabinet.

Here's the URL posted by Ray on USENET ... http://staff.washington.edu/rrcc/uwweb/CK3000/

I have the setup manuals for that unit, which I would be happy to send copies of. Fax for free, or I can Xerox a set of hard copies by mail for $5 Prio Flatrate envelope. If you would like, PM me and I'll get them to you.

Charles

YP12 is the correct yoke programmer for ANY tube type color set. It sets the yoke up for series wired, 12mHY inductance.

The convergence load is almost ALWAYS a 150 ohm resistor from the cathode of the vertical output tube to ground. Use a 5 watt resistor and a couple of clip leads. This will replace the CVL.

The horizontal yoke leads come out of the jig on pins 4&6 of the octal plug. Vertical is pins 1&2, with a jumper between 7&8. Use an octal socket and some leads with alligator clips or flat slip connectors on the ends to make up a yoke adaptor.

With the above information, you will be able to make any adaptor for any tube chassis to hook up to this jig.

I have the pinouts to make adaptors for the CTC 4&5 chassis, as well as later tube chassis, so let me know if you need them, and I'll post here. All you will need to do is find a plug that mates with your yoke socket, or a good improvisation.

BTW...Older Sylvania, Telematic, RCA, and Dowd jigs are the same.

I hope this helps!

Hi-

I just picked up a Sylvania CK3000 test jig, complete with manuals and a bunch of adapters and the extension cables, etc. Even though I have decades of experience with electronics and restoration, this will be my first time working with a jig. I have a couple of questions for you experienced users:

-My A112 yoke adapter is an octal socket with four 1/4" male blade terminals. Is that what it should be? The setup for RCA roundie sets (CTC-7 to -16) does not describe anything like what yoke pins to connect on the chassis, etc.

-Regarding convergence connections, is the idea that you hang the CVL ballast onto the chassis instead of actually having any convergence connections to the jig? In that case, since the ballasts are octal plugs, do the RCA sets have octal sockets for their convergence yokes? (I have a CTC-5 that uses an octal socket for its deflection output and an odd connector for the convergence, and a CTC-16 that I have not yet opened to look at its connector types.)

TV Engineer-

I would like your CTC-4 and CTC-5 diagrams if you can post them, thanks. If the convergence hookup is as simple as you mentioned above, this jig should work OK on those models, too.

YP12 is the correct yoke programmer for ANY tube type color set. It sets the yoke up for series wired, 12mHY inductance.

The convergence load is almost ALWAYS a 150 ohm resistor from the cathode of the vertical output tube to ground. Use a 5 watt resistor and a couple of clip leads. This will replace the CVL.

The horizontal yoke leads come out of the jig on pins 4&6 of the octal plug. Vertical is pins 1&2, with a jumper between 7&8. Use an octal socket and some leads with alligator clips or flat slip connectors on the ends to make up a yoke adaptor.

With the above information, you will be able to make any adaptor for any tube chassis to hook up to this jig.

I have the pinouts to make adaptors for the CTC 4&5 chassis, as well as later tube chassis, so let me know if you need them, and I'll post here. All you will need to do is find a plug that mates with your yoke socket, or a good improvisation.

BTW...Older Sylvania, Telematic, RCA, and Dowd jigs are the same.

I hope this helps!

Thank you for this extremely useful information! The problem of interfacing my CK3000 to a chassis for a Sylvania 31C304M that I'll be restoring soon seems to have a solution now.

The ironic part is that it's so hard to hook a Sylvania rig to a Sylvania chassis:). Glad you finally got a possible solution.

The ironic part is that it's so hard to hook a Sylvania rig to a Sylvania chassis:). Glad you finally got a possible solution.

Lack of direct test rig support for most of the earliest color chassis designs is quite common, and that is especially true of sets using tubes older than all-glass 21" types like the 21CYP22, 21FBP22, and subsequent types.

Now that the solution to interfacing with sets from the era of the 21AXP22 is solved, I'm left wondering if some means of interfacing to sets using a 15GP22 or 15HP22 could be developed almost as easily. Perhaps a 20-pin base from an otherwise-unsalvageable 15G could be paired with a CRT socket from a junked "nothing special" Rectangular set and a set of inline resistive networks (values in the tens or hundreds of megohms, I would guess) to terminate the convergence electrode circuits? What would be the effect on chassis operation of leaving those convergence pins unconnected?

John (jshorva65)-

Is your A112 yoke adapter an octal socket with four wires each ending with a 1/4" male blade terminal?

Yes, the A-112 consists of an octal plug having four color-coded leads terminated with male blade connectors. Red and blue connect to the female blade connectors on the red and blue horizontal yoke leads from the chassis under test. The yellow and black leads connect to the corresponding vertical yoke leads (yellow and yellow-black). If the chassis has a fifth (usually orange) yoke lead, this lead is left unconnected when using the CK3000 (it normally connects to a fifth terminal on some sets' yokes, which is the junction of the two halves of the horizontal winding, when used). The octal plug of the A-112 then connects to the mating octal socket on the B-207 yoke extension cable. The Molex plug on the B-207 should be plugged into the Molex connector marked "Deflection" on the CK3000 patch panel.

Likewise, the A-113 CRT adaptor will plug into the CRT socket end of the B-230 CRT extension cable. The Molex end of the B-230 then connects to the Molex connector marked "CRT" on the CK3000 patch panel.

The red and black (Anode and Ground) leads will then connect to the Anode and Ground connections of the chassis under test. For "hot chassis" receivers, the chassis under test must be powered via an isolation transformer to minimize AC shock hazard.

Another adaptor having an RCA plug on one end and alligator clips on the other should be included with the CK3000 in order to connect the speaker leads of the chassis under test to the "Audio" connector on the CK3000 patch panel.

For all "roundie" setup codes (designated "1A" through "1M" by the manual's setup tables and chassis-setup cross reference) and other setup codes for tube-types chassis, the octal plug marked "YP-12" will be connected to the Yoke Program socket on the CK3000 patch panel.

Most of the "roundie" setup codes use Convergence Ballast "CVL-1" while some will use CVL-2, CVL-3, or none. For many chassis, the designated Convergence Ballast plugs directly into the Convergence socket of the chassis under test. Some models use an adaptor between the CVL-x ballast and the chassis Convergence socket (most Zenith "roundie" chassis use the CVL-1 ballast paired with the CC-19 adaptor).

Thanks for the detailed information, John. I hope to try out the jig soon.

Thanks for the detailed information, John. I hope to try out the jig soon.

You're very welcome! I also learned how to set up my CK3000 from information provided by other message board members, after obtaining my CK3000 and its bag of cables with no setup literature from a local seller. There should be a link in one of my earlier posts in this thread to the site where I downloaded my copy of the CK3000 manual. Thanks again to the poster of the manual!

I did some more research so I can connect my CK3000 to my CTC-5 chassis, and later possibly a CTC-4.

First, I did confirm that the CVL1 ballast/convergence load is just what TV Engineer said it was, basically a 150 ohm resistor between pins 1 and 2. Then, I studied the schematics for the RCA chassis from CTC-16X back to the CTC-2B to see what would be required to use the CK3000 with the pre-CTC-7 chassis. The older models each have different methods of connecting their convergence yokes to their chassis (none match each other, nor do any match the CTC-7 and later). All three of the older 21" chassis (CTC-2B, 4, and 5) use the same connector and wiring for their deflection yokes (that does not match the CTC-7 and later).

The deflection yoke on the '2B/'4/'5 has an octal plug and cable that appears to match up with the newer models using common-color yoke wires like this: Pin 1 = yellow, pin 2 = black (or yellow/black), pin 5 = red, pin 8 = blue. I may have pins 5 and 8 backwards; I will not know until I make the adapter cable I am planning to use.

Regarding the convergence yoke and load, it appears that the older chassis do not even need to have a load used when the yoke is disconnected. All three of the older models have their convergence circuitry on the chassis (or the separate CTC-3 with the CTC-2B), so the function of the load is already accomplished by the various pots that remain in-circuit even when the convergence yoke is unplugged.

I will make an update post when I have tried the CK3000 with my CTC-5.

Could we leave the male Chauvinism out please...some of us men do all of the housework plus multiple jobs.

I'm a house husband, and my wife & I both work about equally on wage earning... It's more work than when I worked as a TV repairman for two shops at the same time on call! I do all the housework, as she hates to do it and I don't mind. It's her house, so it's still a deal tilted in my favor.

Charles

With many thanks to Ray, who posted the entire setup manual in reply to a USENET message I posted some time ago, I'll pass along the URL for the location of the manual. I just used the CK3000 to check out another roundie chassis (Admiral 25UH-series) which had an intermittent issue with color sync. The CK3000 allows much more systematic probing, tapping, and prodding to pin down touchy intermittents than would be possible with the chassis inside the cabinet.

Here's the URL posted by Ray on USENET ... http://staff.washington.edu/rrcc/uwweb/CK3000/

Excuse me for bringing this old thread around. Is there any chance that someone copied the above manual file, and could send me the file via email? The above link is no longer working.

Do any of you guys that have these CK3000's know what CRT type is in your jig? Mine has a VT13VAHP22, and it's showing way too much g1 leakage on the green gun. The guy I got mine from said it was working when used last about 10 years ago. Not sure what to make of it. Thanks for any help.

Kevin

Eeeeek: 6-year-old thread bumped again????!!!!!

If anyone has a spare A-113 CRT adaptor, that is the only thing keeping me from connecting mine up. I can make one, but I don't have anything to cannibalize the 14-pin CRT connector from. I have the other end that connects to the CRT extension cable.

Kevin

I have the Sylvania test fixture with probably evary adaptor made or close to it. Also have a home made set up for RCA solid state thru ctc 169. The RCA one uses all kinds of adaptors and focus adaptors. Some adaptors are made by Telematic. I never had to pull a 35 inch set. I have also the RCA interface boards so I usually did not have to pull the push buttons unless there was one I did not have.

Also have the Chipper check unit. All this is available for sale if there is any interest. I will not be interested in selling just an adaptor. The fixture and it's adaptors will be a package.

I have no intention of repairing a TV again. After doing that for almost 45 years, I'm done.

If you people saw what I've thrown away, you'd cringe.

Can anyone list the pin basing for a 13VAHP22? It's not listed in my 1975 RCA manual, so it must be a later tube.

I'm attempting to make a CRT adaptor (Sylvania #A113) to go from the newer small 14 pin to the older large (14AU) basing. I don't think they're pin for pin identical? Thanks for any help.

Kevin

I finally got my CTC-11 chassis hooked up to my CK3000 jig. The CRT in my unit has some major convergence issues. I can get the center ok, but there's no control over the outer edges. Maybe this is normal for these?

I'm also having a problem with vertical height. I can't get the jig to match the height of the CRT in my set. I assume that would be controlled with the yoke-programming plug?

My 11 has a lot of smearing on text. Probably needs alignment, but I'm not ready to go there. :no:

The poor thing still has all it's original caps in it.

Kevin

I finally got my CTC-11 chassis hooked up to my CK3000 jig. The CRT in my unit has some major convergence issues. I can get the center ok, but there's no control over the outer edges. Maybe this is normal for these?

I'm also having a problem with vertical height. I can't get the jig to match the height of the CRT in my set. I assume that would be controlled with the yoke-programming plug?

My 11 has a lot of smearing on text. Probably needs alignment, but I'm not ready to go there. :no:

The poor thing still has all it's original caps in it.

Kevin

It is normal for the edges of the jig not to be in convergence.

It is normal for the edges of the jig not to be in convergence.

That's good to know.

Should I also not worry about the picture size and centering, basically use it as a go, no-go test for basic receiver function? Sort of like a dummy speaker load.

Kevin

Can anyone list the pin basing for a 13VAHP22? It's not listed in my 1975 RCA manual, so it must be a later tube.

I'm attempting to make a CRT adaptor (Sylvania #A113) to go from the newer small 14 pin to the older large (14AU) basing. I don't think they're pin for pin identical? Thanks for any help.

Kevin

I'm not sure, but the 14VAHP22 uses a 14BH basing:

Pin
1=Heater
2=Red Cathode
3=Red G1
4=Red G2
5=Green G2
6=Green Catode
7=Green G1
8="C" - not sure what that is..
9=G4 (Focus)
10=not used/not present
11=Blue Cathode
12=Blue G1
13=Blue G2
14=Heater

Empire (now part of Video Diplay/VDC lists the 13VAHP22 as a replacement for 13VAF, 13VBG, and 13VBTP22 CRTs.

Hope this helps,

I'm not sure, but the 14VAHP22 uses a 14BH basing:

Pin
1=Heater
2=Red Cathode
3=Red G1
4=Red G2
5=Green G2
6=Green Catode
7=Green G1
8="C" - not sure what that is..
9=G4 (Focus)
10=not used/not present
11=Blue Cathode
12=Blue G1
13=Blue G2
14=Heater

Empire (now part of Video Diplay/VDC lists the 13VAHP22 as a replacement for 13VAF, 13VBG, and 13VBTP22 CRTs.

Hope this helps,

Brian, Thanks for trying to help. As it turns out it's not a 14BH basing.

Ron L actually came up with the correct basing over on ARF.

Hi Kevin Kuehn,
according to my 1979 sylvania tube book,
a 13VAHP22 connections are:

pin1= heater, pin2=green g2, pin3= green g1,pin4=red cathode, pin5=red g2, pin6=red g1, pin7= green cathode, pin9=red green blue g3, pin11=blue cathode, pin12=blue g2, pin13=blue g1, pin14=heater.

anode = red green blue g4.
Hope this helps,
RonL

VDC actually had NOS of this tube up until a couple weeks ago. I sat on the fence for too many days and missed out on their last one. :(

Kevin

As for the smearing issue, the longer CRT wires from the socket to the test jig will cause that to occur.

It has been years since I've used or been around a jig but at one of my first jobs in a shop during the mid-seventies we had a Tele-Matic model jig. (I remember that smearing!) It wouldn't support roundies so we used a gutted CTC-10 metal cabinet set mounted at the end of the bench.

I started using a jig in the early 70's. The Telematic jig did in fact support the round crt type chassis. So did the RCA jigs as well as the Sylvania jigs.

I started using a jig in the early 70's. The Telematic jig did in fact support the round crt type chassis. So did the RCA jigs as well as the Sylvania jigs.

That's good to know. Maybe my boss was just cheap as we didn't have those adapters!

Thanks for the comments. I suppose the stray capacitance with the longer CRT cable is causing ringing. I'm also seeing some green ghosting behind images, that I suspsect is because of the green gun leakage in my jigs CRT. Also, the convergence is so poor on this CRT, that I'm seeing multi colored images of text on the outside edges of the screen.

Are there any newer larger rectangular CRT's that are functionally equivalent to the 21FJP22?

Kevin

As others said, since there is way to send dynamic convergence signals from the specific chassis being tested to the jig, the jig's CRT will have poor convergence everywhere except its center area (which should be able to be adjusted using static convergence components on the back of its CRT).

There could not be a truly "equivalent" rectangular CRT to match the roundies, since round-CRT chassis do not have pincushion adjustments, for example. I would also expect a rectangular CRT's yoke to be different as well, perhaps significantly. If you have access to them, try comparing a CTC-16 schematic to a CTC-17; those are probably pretty close except round vs. rectangular.

Are you missing your yoke programmer and/or convergence load (CVL) devices from your CK-3000? I know the CVL is really just a resistor (as discussed earlier in this topic), but I don't know about the yoke programmers, however, I could try to measure mine to help you make your own replacement.

Are you missing your yoke programmer and/or convergence load (CVL) devices from your CK-3000? I know the CVL is really just a resistor (as discussed earlier in this topic), but I don't know about the yoke programmers, however, I could try to measure mine to help you make your own replacement.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the pointers. As you can tell I have very little experience working on color, or even b&w TV's. I went to school for some of this way back in the early 80's, but unfortunately was never able to apply any of it until becoming interested as a hobby. Now it's like learning all over again, and I'm a pretty slow learner unless I can put things into actual practice.

I understand the lack of dynamic convergence issue on the jig, I just didn't realize how dramatic it would be without the adjustments. We're talking horizontal color separation of 1/8-1/4" at the outer edges.

I made my own CRT adaptor, CVL and Yoke programmer. My CK3000 came with a 1990/91 supplementary setup manual; they actually have the Yoke jumper connections listed for the various inductances in the back of the manual. For an YP12 (12.6 mH) I have pins 1&7 and 2&3 jumpered.

Setting up this test jig has been a good learning experience in itself. I even accidentally found out that I can run my 21FJP22 without the CTC-11 convergence board plugged in. It looks very similar to the test jigs very poor convergence.

Kevin