View Full Version : Scored an Admiral 19A11


Crist Rigott
08-31-2017, 09:19 PM
Scored this today. Paid a whopping $25 for it. It'll be a while before I get to restoring it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950343a_zpsc3etv5pq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950343a_zpsc3etv5pq.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950345a_zpsus0vehhf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950345a_zpsus0vehhf.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950348a_zpsyiwlied2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950348a_zpsyiwlied2.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950349a_zpsfbgefmsi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Admiral%2019A11/IMG950349a_zpsfbgefmsi.jpg.html)

MadMan
08-31-2017, 10:37 PM
Noice! Looks real clean.

kvflyer
09-01-2017, 04:10 AM
They are hard to find in good condition. Mine (still in queue) has a broken corner underneath. But JB Weld should fix it.

Congratulations, especially on the price! Even if the CRT is bad or weak, they are out there.

Crist Rigott
09-02-2017, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the nice comments.

Crist Rigott
09-03-2017, 03:37 AM
The story behind this TV is that the neighbor's husband died and the elderly widow didn't want to be alone so she decided to move in with her daughter. So she downsized and the seller bought it and a few other pieces before the estate sale.

Crist Rigott
12-25-2017, 11:20 PM
While I'm waiting on parts for the Zenith and better weather to take care of the cabinet, I decided that this would be my next project.
I brought it in and put it on my bench and after the customary pictures, I pulled off the back. Dirty but nice! No rust anywhere. It is a 19A1-SA chassis with a serial number of 38290. It has the rear mounted Vert. Lin pot and the extra .005uf 6Kv cap coming off the Vert. Cent pot.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8843a.jpg

More pictures of the chassis.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8855a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8862a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8863a.jpg

A good look underneath revealed a virgin chassis! I could not see anywhere where there was a component changed. As a matter of fact, it had all Admiral tubes except a RCA 5Y3GT LV rectifier tube. I pulled the HV cover, I was the first one to ever remove it, and while being a little dirty it looked factory "fresh" too.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8873a.jpg

Time to test the CRT. I plugged it into my Philco 50T-702 and got this:

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8890a.jpg

Yup, the CRT looked pretty good. Time to order some HV caps and stuff I need. This looks like it'll be a good restoration. BTW, the cabinet is crack free and with some small scratches that should buff out.

Dude111
12-26-2017, 03:45 AM
Very nice buddy :)

Crist Rigott
12-26-2017, 11:09 AM
Does anybody have a better scan of Sams 59-2 than what's on the ETF website?
Thanks.

Crist Rigott
12-26-2017, 04:27 PM
Does anybody have a better scan of Sams 59-2 than what's on the ETF website?
Thanks.
I could use the schematic only from Sams 59-2. Thanks.

Celt
12-26-2017, 05:13 PM
Very nice set!

Crist Rigott
12-27-2017, 11:25 AM
I'm going to add the retrace blanking circuit that Phil shows on his website. It shows a 250pf 1Kv cap and a 22K resistor. What type of cap should I use? A ceramic, mica, other?

https://antiqueradio.org/Admiral19A12Television.htm

jr_tech
12-27-2017, 04:11 PM
Does anybody have a better scan of Sams 59-2 than what's on the ETF website?
Thanks.
The biggest problem that I see with the ETF copy is missing info in the page fold.... just where does that B+ connect, anyway? :scratch2:

Perhaps this will help

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/38630970724_89cb19bd56_z_d.jpg


jr

Crist Rigott
12-29-2017, 01:01 AM
Thanks guys.

I've ordered the HV caps, 630V caps, and picked the other stuff from Mouser. They are only a 20 minute drive away! Will Call so there is no shipping. :banana:

Working on stuffing the 3 section E-Cap C1. Pics to follow.

Crist Rigott
01-04-2018, 09:49 PM
Been busy over the holiday. Things have settled down a bit.
I re-stuffed C1 with 3 Nichicon 10k hour caps in the usual manner that I do.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8943a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8946a.jpg

Then I labeled all the components like I usually do.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8956a.jpg

I noticed that the 3 wires coming from the HV coil going to the Osc. 6V6 tube were hard and the insulation just crumbled away. So I'm in the middle of replacing those wires along with the HV wire going to the plate cap of the 1B3GT. That wire was cracking too.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_8978a.jpg

mr_rye89
01-07-2018, 11:14 AM
Very cool set! I've been after a tabletop set like that for a while. Those crumbly rubber wires remind me of that Philco radio I restored

decojoe67
01-07-2018, 11:30 AM
Continued success with the resto. That is one of the best of the small early post-war 7" sets. I was watching mine the other day and they perform so well. This one was from the son of the original owner, from the original house and never stored away! The picture, as usual, looks more washed-out than it really is:

Crist Rigott
01-08-2018, 12:34 AM
Very cool set! I've been after a tabletop set like that for a while. Those crumbly rubber wires remind me of that Philco radio I restored

I think it is a cool set too! Yeah, the Philco crumbly wires on 38 and 39 radios!

Crist Rigott
01-08-2018, 12:35 AM
Continued success with the resto. That is one of the best of the small early post-war 7" sets. I was watching mine the other day and they perform so well. This one was from the son of the original owner, from the original house and never stored away! The picture, as usual, looks more washed-out than it really is:

Thanks for the kind words. Your set looks awesome!

Crist Rigott
01-08-2018, 12:48 AM
An update of my progress. The HV caps came in so I started with the HV section. I replaced all the caps and resistors, and thouroughly cleaned all surfaces. I removed the phenolic board and pots and cleaned them too.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9005a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9006a.jpg

I then installed a fuse holder in the AC line going to the ON/OFF switch. I used an existing holes and just removed the wire from the interlock and folded it back to the fuse holder and installed a new brown wire from the fuse holder to the interlock.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9007a.jpg

I then installed C1 and wired that.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9008a-e1515390251128.jpg

Then C2 was replaced with a terminal strip and 2 E-Caps. The ground terminal was soldered to the chassis like all ground terminals are. The terminal strip was placed in the same location as the clip was for C2. The wires were then just tacked in place so I could do a power up.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9009a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-08-2018, 08:38 PM
I'm replacing the components in the Horizontal and Vertical sections right now. I thought that I would include a picture of how I arrange things when I'm doing a section of the chassis.

First thing I do is take some close up pictures of the area. Then using some lined notebook paper and a pencil, I draw out what is connected. For example let's say a tube we'll call V12. I draw a circle and place the key way and 8 dots which represent the terminals. I then draw a resistor going from pin 1 and the other end of the resistor I list where it goes like #3 V13, and so on. I also draw in what ever is connected to that terminal like wires, coils, etc.

Then I clip out the components that I'll be changing out. I lay then next to the chassis then I measure the resistance of the clipped out resistors and record them on my spreadsheet. I then get a new resistor and measure that and again record it on my spreadsheet. I dig out the the new caps too. I placed the new components next to the old ones. I then clean up the terminals and clean them using an acid brush and acetone. I then make any repairs needed to wiring etc.

Then I start to install the new components. It's like building a kit now! After soldering, I again clean the terminals with acetone.

Then take a break.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9015a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-09-2018, 08:53 AM
The Horizontal and Vertical sections are finished. Today I'll power it up and see my progress.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9017a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-09-2018, 05:05 PM
I did the audio section today. Here are the before and after pictures.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9025a-1.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9028a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-10-2018, 10:41 PM
Today I worked backward through V9 the Ratio Detector, V8 the sound IF, V7 the Video Amp, V6 the video detector, V5 the 3rd Video IF, and V4 the 2nd Video IF. All that's left is V3 the 1st Video IF and the Tuner.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9038a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9039a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-10-2018, 10:53 PM
BTW, I got a original Sams Photofact for this TV. It's Sams 59-2. I scanned it and sent Steve at ETF a compressed pdf copy that is much better than what's up there now. Looks like Steve did some further compression and the copy isn't all that good.

Never fear. I've uploaded the full resolution pdf in my dropbox. You can enlarged it at least 400X and it is still very readable. Here's the link. Caution large file @16Mb.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o0f1yge36vw1h1a/Sams%2059-2.pdf?dl=0

Crist Rigott
01-11-2018, 11:00 AM
OK, I have a concern that I need cleared up. There are these ceramic capacitors used in this TV, mostly in the IF stages. I call them "Hot Dog" caps because they look like hot dogs. Seeing they are ceramic I haven't paid too much attention to them when I do a recap. On this chassis I'm down to the last tube, tube V3, and decided to check some of these caps because they were already disconnected while I'm replacing the resistors. Well, to my amazement the 5 I checked were well out of tolerance......I think.

According to the the Sams parts list, C12-C16 (the ones I checked) can use Aerovox 1468, Cornell-Dubilier 1W series which both are mica caps. I looked in the 1951 Allied catalog and the C-D mica caps have a tolerance of +/- 20% while there was no tolerance listed in the Allied catalog for the Aerovox caps.

In the picture of the schematic below I have penciled in the readings I get for each capacitor. They are:
C12 - 1623pf
C13 - 1431pf
C14 - 1931pf
C15 - 1707pf
C16 - 1230pf

Should I check all of those hot dog caps and replace them too? I've never replaced those before because I've always thought they were good. Now I'm not so sure.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9044a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9041a.jpg

bandersen
01-11-2018, 01:55 PM
Those are ceramic caps used as RF bypass and coupling and very reliable. Probably the most reliable components in vintage electronics. The value is not critical. I would leave them alone.

kvflyer
01-11-2018, 02:12 PM
Also, don't forget that you capacitor checker leads could be adding to the value of these capacitors. They are very low in value. Try separating the leads and measure them again.

As Bob mentioned, I would be inclined to leave them alone.

Crist Rigott
01-12-2018, 06:09 PM
OK guys I left them alone. I appreciate your feedback.

Crist Rigott
01-12-2018, 06:38 PM
Guys, I've got another problem! Some background first.
all through this recap and recarb, when I powered up the TV, the picture seemed weak. I had to twiddle the Contrast, Brightness, V. Hold, and H. Hold controls just right to get a picture. The picture was always a bit unstable. It would flicker and when I adjusted the Contrast control, the V. Hold would need readjusting. Though I think this might be a nature of the beast. As I went through the recap, the picture got just a little bit better. Then when I was finished with all the recapping, the picture was still a bit unstable but the flickering all but stopped.
Then I changed the 8 resistors in the tuner. Now here's my problem. I have very good audio but no video. I have a raster but no video. No amount of twiddling the controls will produce a picture. I even tried another CRT with the same results. I replaced the 6AU6 Video Amp tube and even changed 6AL5 Video Detector tube and still no joy. I checked the 2 coils (Sams L14 and L15) or ( Riders, Wallace, and Admiral L9 and L10) and they checked good for continuity.
Could this problem be caused by something in the tuner? I figured that with good audio, the tuner was doing its job.
Any ideas as to where to look?
In the meantime, I'll hook video directly to the Video Amp and see what I get.
Thanks for your help.

Here's a link to the Wallace schematic. Thanks to Phil Nelson.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vtr06fdq1zs73un/19A1Schematic%20With%20Lin.%20Pot%20Cropped.jpg?dl =0

Crist Rigott
01-12-2018, 07:27 PM
OK, when I hook the video directly to the Video Amp tube, I get decent video.
Then I went back to the original set up and now I'm getting a very faint picture.

I'm thinking that maybe I need to just do the IF/Video alignment.

Can a problem with the tuner cause this problem? Just wondering.

old_coot88
01-12-2018, 07:49 PM
Please don't mess with video alignment without first checking for plate and screen voltage on the IF tubes, and that their heaters are lit.

The set uses intercarrier sound. So you'd think that with a dead video IF stage, it'd kill the sound too. But since the sound carrier is FM, it could be going through by capacitive coupling.

Crist Rigott
01-12-2018, 08:19 PM
Please don't mess with video alignment without first checking for plate and screen voltage on the IF tubes, and that their heaters are lit.

The set uses intercarrier sound. So you'd think that with a dead video IF stage, it'd kill the sound too. But since the sound carrier is FM, it could be going through by capacitive coupling.

Fair enough. I'll check those voltages.

Crist Rigott
01-12-2018, 09:07 PM
OK, here's what I measured. There was no signal to the antenna terminals.

Also the "mains" was only at 114VAC. Hence the low voltage on the heaters and B+ was only 237V. When the mains was brought up to house voltage of 124VAC, the heaters went up to 6vac and B+ went to 257V.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9061a.jpg

jr_tech
01-12-2018, 09:46 PM
Got to get some plate voltage to pin 2 of the 6J6 for openers...perhaps the 15 k resistor in A4 is open?

jr

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 12:25 PM
Got to get some plate voltage to pin 2 of the 6J6 for openers...perhaps the 15 k resistor in A4 is open?

jr

Yeah, I agree. I checked that resistor. It ohmed out to 21K. I'll pull A4 and replace that resistor too.

I went through the tuner last night in great detail. No problems found except that resistor.
I have another tuner and I'll clip lead the tuner in and try it then swap tuners and try it again.
Then go on to an alignment.

jr_tech
01-13-2018, 01:53 PM
If it has only increased to 21K, I doubt that the voltage would drop that much (75 to 8.2 volts)... is the 6J6 ok? :scratch2:

jr

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 02:02 PM
If it has only increased to 21K, I doubt that the voltage would drop that much (75 to 8.2 volts)... is the 6J6 ok? :scratch2:

jr

Yeah, I agree. I'll swap out the 6J6 next time.

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 02:06 PM
I pulled A4 1st IF transformer off the tuner to replaced the 15K resistor. It consists of the 15K resistor, a coil, and 2 mica caps at 10pf and 130pf.

Here is what it looks like:

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9066a.jpg

I was expecting some "real" mica caps. Now I'm concerned that those caps could develop silver mica disease. I'm having some real trouble getting a cap reading on each of those with my cap checker. I could cut them in half and install real mica caps.

What do you think?

jr_tech
01-13-2018, 04:36 PM
Is the 10 pf leaky to ground? that could pull down the plate supply to the 6J6. Otherwise, I think that I would leave them alone, and try to figure out the reason the 6J6 plate voltage is so low first.

jr

old_coot88
01-13-2018, 04:55 PM
With the 6J6 removed, check the voltage at pin 2 (plate), and see if it still lugs down.

Dittos to jr_tech on leaving the caps alone unless one is leaky/shorted. Their values are for bandpass-shaping so are fairly critical.

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 08:58 PM
With the 6J6 removed, check the voltage at pin 2 (plate), and see if it still lugs down.

Dittos to jr_tech on leaving the caps alone unless one is leaky/shorted. Their values are for bandpass-shaping so are fairly critical.

I checked the voltages on V1 and V2 with the tubes removed.

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 09:04 PM
Well Late this afternoon I decided to replace the mica caps in A4. I thought that while I had it out, why take the chance. I replaced them with 500V 5% micas. I had the 10pf but didn't have the 130pf so I put 2 in parallel. When I checked them with my cap checker I got 129pf. Good enough. And I also changed out the 15K resistor which read 23K once removed. BTW, all the caps in the tuner were replaced using carbon film caps.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9069a.jpg

I re-installed the tuner and I now have a much better picture.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9078a.jpg

On to the alignment.

jr_tech
01-13-2018, 09:26 PM
Excellent! did the plate voltage on the 2 6J6 plates change?

jr

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 09:30 PM
Excellent! did the plate voltage on the 2 6J6 plates change?

jr

I haven't checked it. I'll do that and report back.

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 09:52 PM
Yeah, I have 137V at pins 1 and 2 of V2 the 6J6.

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 11:24 PM
Oops! Made a recapping error! Before I do an alignment I take small pieces of masking tape and ID the places I need to hook to during the alignment. In the Sams these consist of letters A thru F. All went well till finding test point F. Test point F is at the junction of R22, R20, and C13. When examining that spot I noticed that C13 wasn't at the junction! It was at the "bottom" of R20. I checked my notes and sure enough I soldered C13 to the wrong terminal. I soldered it to terminal 3 (counting L to R) instead of 4. I easily moved it to the right spot and labeled test pont F. I never would have caught that if I wasn't pre-labeling those test points. Excuse me while I go buy a couple of Lottery tickets!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9084a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9079a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-13-2018, 11:55 PM
The picture is getting better by just watching TV. Star Trek to be exact.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9088a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-16-2018, 01:55 PM
I'm done with the alignment and now on to some details.
I noticed this from the beginning. There some white horizontal lines that "flash" every so often. They are usually near the top of the screen. This happened before I did the retrace blanking mod. They increase in brightness with the "Brightness" knob. If the picture is just a little too dark, they almost disappear.
I've cleaned all the tube sockets and their pins.
Any ideas. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/cFoYIfubVkY

jr_tech
01-16-2018, 02:38 PM
Is that an example at Spocks chin?

Is that perhaps a 60 hz "hum bar" from the bright line down to the chest insignias on both characters? (does it slowly move up through the picture?)

jr

Crist Rigott
01-16-2018, 02:56 PM
Is that an example at Spocks chin?

Is that perhaps a 60 hz "hum bar" from the bright line down to the chest insignias on both characters? (does it slowly move up through the picture?)

jr

Yeah, it sure looks like one of those lines.

I haven't noticed the hum bar moving. It seems that it is always just below a white line.

Crist Rigott
01-16-2018, 06:52 PM
I injected the video directly into the Video Amp tube and I still get those same white lines.

Crist Rigott
01-17-2018, 12:10 AM
I'm starting on the cabinet now. I remember reading somewhere what it takes to remove the channel plate that is usually warped. Can anybody point me to where I read that? I don't want to break that Channel number plate!
Thanks.

Crist Rigott
01-17-2018, 12:53 AM
I got the channel plate off with no problems.

decojoe67
01-17-2018, 05:31 PM
I got the channel plate off with no problems.
You're daring! I never had the nerve to pry one off. I adjusted my tuner by simply taking the chassis out.

Crist Rigott
01-17-2018, 05:37 PM
You're daring! I never had the nerve to pry one off. I adjusted my tuner by simply taking the chassis out.

What I did was to use a 3/16 dowel and a small hammer to "drift" it out from the inside. Tapping lightly on each "pin" and move it a little at a time. No prying. 2 of the brass retainers stayed in the cabinet. I used my flush cutter to get them out from the front side.

Crist Rigott
01-20-2018, 09:25 AM
I've cleaned and polished the cabinet. Then I refilled the lettering on the front of the cabinet like Bob did on his video. I used some satin acrylic paint from Walmart and it turned out pretty good. Then I got to thinking that he used white on his black cabinet and I also used white on my brown cabinet. Looking at it now, I'm thinking I should have used perhaps a light tan or Khaki color. I scrapped the lines on the Channel Plate and they stayed a Khaki color. What color did Admiral use on their brown cabinets?

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9257a.jpg

decojoe67
01-20-2018, 03:56 PM
I looked closely at my original brown example and it looks like the lettering is a cream color rather than stark white. I would say redoing all the lettering in stark white would be acceptable though.
It seems the white dots on the channel plate must've been molding injection marks that were just filled along with the lettering at the factory.

Electronic M
01-20-2018, 04:22 PM
It will probably fade/dirty to a cream eventually anyway.

jr_tech
01-20-2018, 05:03 PM
Ivory/Cream for sure on mine... original, un-restored:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4721/25931165838_fa8c50c128_z_d.jpg

jr

decojoe67
01-20-2018, 07:20 PM
My set. It basically looks white in the photo, but in person it's more a cream color. Notice how swirled the knobs are on this example!

Crist Rigott
01-20-2018, 11:05 PM
Guys,
I really appreciate those photos. I have to agree it's cream color.

A trip up to the local Walmart produced another bottle of paint. "Toasted Marshmallow" it is.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9264a.jpg

I redid the lettering on the cabinet and Channel Plate. After it dries tomorrow, I'll clean them both up and outline what I'm doing to mount the Channel Plate.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9259a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9258a.jpg

decojoe67
01-21-2018, 07:00 AM
Perfect Crist! It's those little details in restorations that make a set look just right.

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 08:53 PM
Perfect Crist! It's those little details in restorations that make a set look just right.

Absolutely!

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 09:01 PM
Channel Plate.
I used my heat gun and gently heated and flattened out the plate the best I could. After trying to fit it back onto the cabinet, I could see that the plate had shrunken some. To get the plate to lie flat I filed the round mounting holes till it fit properly and centered over the hole in the cabinet.
With the holes filed out I knew the brass retaining clips won't work. So I came up with the idea of using some #6 flat washers and some 1/8" model airplane fuel line. The fuel line is a tight fit over the mounting posts. The washers are just the right size to go over the posts and then the fuel line can press against the washers "pulling" the Channel Plate onto the cabinet. The pieces of fuel line were left long so if I had to remove them I could grab it with a pair of pliers.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9271a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9272a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 09:08 PM
I then recreated the 3 labels. Two for the chassis and one for the back. Not an exact copy but real close!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9276a-e1516586574896.jpg

Once the 2 labels were applied the chassis was done!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9277a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9280a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9281a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9284a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9285a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9288a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 09:12 PM
The cabinet parts were reassembled and the chassis slid home and screwed down tight!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9291a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9302a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9304a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9308a.jpg

compucat
01-21-2018, 09:27 PM
Wow. That set looks like it just came out of the box. The channel number plate is made of Tenite which always shrinks and warps to some extent. I had a Westinghouse wood radio with Tenite knobs that we’re slightly misshapen. It is unavoidable. Congratulations on such a fine and detailed restoration. I have bought two of those years ago but both arrived with the cabinets smashed. No one knows how to properly pack and ship something as heavy as a Bakelite TV.

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 11:28 PM
I changed out the interlock cord and replaced the label.
On the interlock I used 2 small nylon spacers 1/4 diameter and 1/4 long. Then used 2 rivets and peened the end over.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9316a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9317a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9319a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9322a.jpg

Crist Rigott
01-21-2018, 11:31 PM
Wow. That set looks like it just came out of the box. The channel number plate is made of Tenite which always shrinks and warps to some extent. I had a Westinghouse wood radio with Tenite knobs that we’re slightly misshapen. It is unavoidable. Congratulations on such a fine and detailed restoration. I have bought two of those years ago but both arrived with the cabinets smashed. No one knows how to properly pack and ship something as heavy as a Bakelite TV.

Thanks for the kind words.

Crist Rigott
01-22-2018, 01:19 PM
I missed posting these photos of O'scope curves I took during alignment. The first one shows the initial response curve before I tweaked anything. Then the rest are self labeled.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9095b.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9096a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9097a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9098a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9099a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9100a.jpg

Then these are from the RF and Mixer adjustments for channel 4. BTW, channel 3 looks very similar.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9102a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9103a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_9104a.jpg

Notimetolooz
01-22-2018, 01:43 PM
Looks pretty good!

Crist Rigott
01-22-2018, 01:56 PM
Looks pretty good!

Thanks.

Crist Rigott
01-22-2018, 02:15 PM
Just to include a summary of what was changed during the restoration.

Capacitors:
This chassis has about 72 caps.
21 paper caps that were all changed
6 electrolytic caps that were all changed
There were 4 disc caps that I changed that were on the high side of tolerance.
There were 6 mica caps that were changed. 2 were from the IF can on the tuner. 2 were 1Kv caps that were in tolerance but were changed because of the high voltage rating, the other 2 were in tolerance but changed anyway.
For a total of 37 caps changed or 51%.

Resistors:
This chassis has about 72 resistors. All were changed.
54 resistors were out of tolerance. Some just barely all the way up to 278%.
Of the 18 left, 6 were just a few points from being out of tolerance and were changed anyway.
Of the 12 left, they were well within tolerance. 4 of them from the tuner that got changed while I was "in there" changing the 4 resistors that were out of tolerance.
So looking at percentages:
75% out of tolerance
8% close to being out of tolerance
17% well within tolerance.

Tubes:
18 tubes - 1 was shorted when I received the TV.
4 were on the low side of green.
The 5Y3G rectifier tube was installed but should have been a 5U4G tube due to the transformer being one of the small percentage chassis that got a transformer from a vendor that didn't quite meet the specs for using a 5Y3G tube.
The 7JP4 CRT displays a good picture, not a great one but a very good one though.

decojoe67
01-22-2018, 10:25 PM
Wow Crist, that really is a jaw-dropping resto! It looks like the day it was bought new. I would call Admiral the "Chevrolet" of vintage TV's. Great lines and great performance.

jr_tech
01-23-2018, 02:33 PM
Lookin good :thmbsp:
Were you able to totally eliminate those white lines/streaks in the video?

jr

Crist Rigott
01-23-2018, 05:57 PM
Wow Crist, that really is a jaw-dropping resto! It looks like the day it was bought new. I would call Admiral the "Chevrolet" of vintage TV's. Great lines and great performance.

Thanks!

Crist Rigott
01-23-2018, 06:00 PM
Lookin good :thmbsp:
Were you able to totally eliminate those white lines/streaks in the video?

jr

Thanks.

No I wasn't. I'll live with them.

jr_tech
01-23-2018, 06:57 PM
So they are intermittent? I don't see them on the last picture.

jr

Crist Rigott
01-23-2018, 08:05 PM
Yes, they come and go.