View Full Version : 1984 RCA XL100 25" console with 2 problems


pac.attack76
05-17-2017, 08:29 PM
Not sure how to to describe it but one has been a tuner issue where sometimes, I have to wait a bit before signal finally comes in but the biggest problem just started recently with this rolling distortion as seen in the pics. Any ideas? I've never seen this before.

Eric H
05-17-2017, 08:42 PM
That looks like a very bad filter capacitor. Hook a good one of equal or better voltage across each section of the can filter and see if it goes away.

TUD1
05-17-2017, 08:58 PM
Definitely a filter cap. Had a CTC-120 do this to me last year. Open it up, there's a big can mounted right on the back of the chassis. IIRC, it was 600 mf.

zeno
05-18-2017, 09:42 AM
Yes, classic RCA Christmas tree. Bad main filter can. Very common.
Tuner problems almost always cold joints on these. Post a picture
of the tuner assy & we will help from there if needed.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

pac.attack76
12-08-2017, 09:04 AM
Forgot to get a pic of the tuner but will get to that. For now, I have this pic of the capacitor. Numbers beginning in 842. I'm guessing this is the one. Just need to know what type to order.

pac.attack76
01-01-2018, 11:50 AM
Anyone?

Tom9589
01-01-2018, 12:03 PM
Remove the strap and use an inspection mirror to see the values of each section. Don't know if this is a single section or multiple section from the photo. You will see the value of each section followed by the voltage, such as XX mfd YYY volts. Using those values you can order a replacement.

pac.attack76
01-01-2018, 12:07 PM
Remove the strap and use an inspection mirror to see the values of each section. Don't know if this is a single section or multiple section from the photo. You will see the value of each section followed by the voltage, such as XX mfd YYY volts. Using those values you can order a replacement.

Not sure. There are several pins all going to wires except for one mounted directly to the chassis. Probably ground.

brokenbroken
01-01-2018, 12:11 PM
There should be symbols next to the value markings that will correspond to markings near the terminals to tell you which is which.

pac.attack76
01-01-2018, 12:13 PM
I couldn't get in there any better with the camera and I couldn't figure out how to remove that strap.

brokenbroken
01-01-2018, 12:20 PM
I couldn't get in there any better with the camera and I couldn't figure out how to remove that strap.

It's been a long time since I've done one of those but IIRC you can use some sort of tool to push down on the part of the strap you can see coming through the back of the chassis. It should then line up with the opening below and slide through releasing it.

Electronic M
01-01-2018, 02:21 PM
If you are definitely changing that cap, then just cut the strap....They don't make new caps in that mechanical form factor anymore, so your replacement will be mounted differently.

That is an FP twist lock style can. It can contain 1 to 4 individual caps inside it. The can its self typically is the common negative (some common positive cans were made) for all caps it contains. All terminals that come out of the metal of the can are the (usually negative) common can terminal. The terminals that come out the brown/black insulative wafer on the end are the positive terminal(s) (the number of them tells you how many sections).

That can is definitely labeled with the values, you just need to get the can loose to read them.

zeno
01-01-2018, 05:44 PM
Thats the cap. Above apply.
IIRC it was a
820mfd @ 200V
10mfd @ 350V
Values will be on it.
If not post the chassis ## ( CTC###) & I will look her up.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !