View Full Version : Rca 621TS


Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 01:22 AM
I picked up this TV this evening. Drove to Houston, sealed the deal and drove back. Got in about 11pm.

Overall the set looks nice. It is an older s/n like C 0003445. Pretty clean inside and no rust except on the surface of the transformer. Here are a few pics of it:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5747a_zpslqa1bprd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5747a_zpslqa1bprd.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5751a_zpsoa8lfd0a.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5751a_zpsoa8lfd0a.jpg.html)

I tested the 7DP4 picture tube with my BK 467 CRT tester. Here is the result:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5780a_zps4lshiq8q.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5780a_zps4lshiq8q.jpg.html)

And the LIFE TEST:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5781a_zpsum3dnh5j.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5781a_zpsum3dnh5j.jpg.html)

The HV lead was disconnected and in faint letters the word BAD was written on the top of the CRT:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5782a_zps0l6y2nt0.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5782a_zps0l6y2nt0.jpg.html)

What gives? The tube looks to be in excellent condition.

Very pleased with the purchase.

But wait, there's more!
I also got this from the same seller:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5789a_zps4lodvbw7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5789a_zps4lodvbw7.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5790a_zpsxg1qiszj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5790a_zpsxg1qiszj.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5793a_zps24qexnsn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%20H-2010%20Safari/100_5793a_zps24qexnsn.jpg.html)

EdKozk2
02-02-2017, 02:45 AM
Crist,
Glad you were able to buy the 721 with a good CRT, and that Philco. They will keep you busy for awhile.:yes:
Ed

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 09:39 AM
Thanks Ed. They will.

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 09:43 AM
I rechecked the CRT this morning. Yup, it checked that good and no shorts or anything like that. No rattles either. This CRT looks brand new and is a genuine RCA 7DP4 CRT. No evidence of being rebuilt either. I'm not sure those could be rebuilt anyway.

Also the TV does not have a back. So, if anyone has one let me know. I'm going to see if I can find a good picture of a back and see it one can be made without too much difficulty too.

Next up, I'll pull the chassis. Stay tuned.

bandersen
02-02-2017, 10:48 AM
Yes, they could be rebuilt. Scotty at Hawkeye was doing them before he shutdown a few years ago. Pretty much the same gun as any other early B&W CRT. Only difference being the electrostatic focus.

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 10:54 AM
Bob,
OK, I didn't think they were re-buildable. Good to know. Why I think this tube is not rebuilt is that the neck is straight with no evidence of an extension being fused on.

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 10:58 AM
OK, pulled the chassis. There very minor rust spots on the chassis but no big deal. The bottom line is it looks like somebody did a partial resto on it. I should have noticed the fuse holder as my first clue. This one will be a good one that's for sure. Seeing it has been partially restored, should I take the chance and power it up using a variac?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5806a_zpsb56dewa0.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5806a_zpsb56dewa0.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5811a_zpspomjesfd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5811a_zpspomjesfd.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5838a_zpstz0viznw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5838a_zpstz0viznw.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5845a_zps1v8zqigw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5845a_zps1v8zqigw.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5850a_zpslclyyu4b.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5850a_zpslclyyu4b.jpg.html)

Kevin Kuehn
02-02-2017, 11:27 AM
Well that sure is a nice clean chassis. Apparently the previous restorer didn't have the perseverance and/or resources to complete the project. Some folks very quickly jump to the conclusion that the big bulb must be at fault. At any rate this should be a very educational project.

[edit] Forgot to ask - is there any indication that the electrolytic cans have been restored?

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 11:48 AM
Well that sure is a nice clean chassis. Apparently the previous restorer didn't have the perseverance and/or resources to complete the project. Some folks very quickly jump to the conclusion that the big bulb must be at fault. At any rate this should be a very educational project.

[edit] Forgot to ask - is there any indication that the electrolytic cans have been restored?

Thanks Kevin.

Looks like the E-Caps have been re-stuffed. I looked closely and I might just power this thing up.

Eric H
02-02-2017, 11:50 AM
That circle on the base of the CRT with a date code seems to indicate it's a replacement tube, either new or rebuilt, I know they used that style at least as late as 1960.
What are the numbers?

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 11:52 AM
that circle on the base of the crt with a date code seems to indicate it's a replacement tube, either new or rebuilt, i know they used that style at least as late as 1960.
What are the numbers?

3
---
48

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 01:13 PM
I powered the set up.
First with the low voltage rectifier removed. All the tubes lit up. Then with the low voltage rectifier in but the H output tube plate cap removed. I measured 263 volts! Riders says 265 volts. I received good audio from a local OTA broadcast! Then on goes the H output tube cap connection. No raster. Bummer. Then I remembered the ION trap. Moved it around a little. Nice bright raster!

Hooked up my converter box and now the audio isn't so good on channel 4. But I got a picture! Horizontal sync needs lots of help. I'll bet its a mica cap. All-in-all, this set looks like it'll do good.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5853a_zpskgpdn2ox.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5853a_zpskgpdn2ox.jpg.html)

dieseljeep
02-02-2017, 02:12 PM
It looks like someone eliminated the PM ion trap and used the resistor in its place. :scratch2:

Crist Rigott
02-02-2017, 02:53 PM
It looks like someone eliminated the PM ion trap and used the resistor in its place. :scratch2:

I think he eliminated the electro-magnet, installed a resistor in its place, and installed a permanent magnet ION trap.

Crist Rigott
02-03-2017, 12:26 AM
BTW, I'm making a list of all the resistors and capacitors used in this set.

I'll do my usual practice of going up in wattage on the resistors.

I'll use the yellow tubular film caps from Sal or Just radios all rated at 630V.

All micas will be at least 5% 500V rated.

The E-Caps will be 450V or 500V except for the few odd values and much lower voltages. Those will still get at least 250V simply because the leads are thicker and less prone to breakage.

I know there is a door knob cap rated at 500pf but no voltage is given. I'm guessing at least 10K?

Are there any other caps that are rated at a higher voltage? I see C141 a 56pf cap in the yoke. Would this be like a 1KV or higher?

broadcaster
02-03-2017, 09:24 AM
Be sure to check the string of 6.8 meg resistors in the HV supply. Those were a problem for changing value.

Electronic M
02-03-2017, 11:49 AM
The more I see the more I kick my self for not making an offer when I had the chance...I did not want to try to make a new offer-up account at work.

Crist Rigott
02-04-2017, 11:52 AM
Guys,
I've scanned the Riders info on this TV. It's from Riders TV 1 pages 44 thru 75. I then enlarged the Schematic and Wiring Diagrams and made separate files for those whose size is 36x24 for us old geezers.

I've uploaded them on Dropbox.

The Manual is about 12megs and the Schematic and Wiring Diagram are about 1meg each.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/awm0knizurcrzkf/Riders%20RCA%20621TS%20Manual.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/52cxfm9klnraprv/RCA%20621TS%20Schematic%2036x24.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ajfa53b9r97bxr9/Riders%20RCA%20621TS%20Wiring%20Diagram%2036x24.pd f?dl=0

M3-SRT8
02-04-2017, 12:50 PM
Be sure to check the string of 6.8 meg resistors in the HV supply. Those were a problem for changing value.

Looks like there's been some repairs there already. But I agree. A problem area with 621TS's.:smoke:

dieseljeep
02-04-2017, 02:06 PM
It looks like someone eliminated the PM ion trap and used the resistor in its place. :scratch2:

I meant it the other way around! Subsituting a PM ion trap for the EM ion trap and using a resistor in its place. :scratch2:

miniman82
02-04-2017, 02:41 PM
Yes, the 7DP4's were rebuildable. I have a Dunbar rebuild in mine, couldn't have seen many hours either since it tests like brand new. That's in my blonde model, I still need to pick up the mahogany one I won out of Connecticut recently.

Crist Rigott
02-06-2017, 09:23 PM
Just a quick update. I ordered what I need from Just Radios, Digikey, and eBay. Tomorrow I'll enlarge the schematic and Wiring Diagram/Parts Placement drawing.

Crist Rigott
02-07-2017, 07:12 PM
I got the schematic and Wiring/Parts Placement Diagram enlarged to 24 x 36. Just right!

I then started to work on the chassis. It is bit grimy and it has a layer of white corrosion all over. I think the plating did its job! To clean the chassis right, I decided to pull what I could off the chassis.

I pulled the yoke, the big resistor in the HV cage, HV cage, flyback, and HV rectifier tube and mount, and the resistor cage.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5913a_zpse3512l58.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5913a_zpse3512l58.jpg.html)

The big resistor had opened some tome ago and was replaced by 2 10K 20W resistors.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5918a_zps7z6hruzq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5918a_zps7z6hruzq.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of the bottom of the socket from the 1b3GT HV rectifier tube.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5930_zpsfizvksz4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5930_zpsfizvksz4.jpg.html)

While removing the resistor heatsink cage I found a wire that had barely been soldered on to one the resistor's terminals!
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5956a_zpsbfr5lf4z.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5956a_zpsbfr5lf4z.jpg.html)

I'll have more pics later. Lots came off the chassis.

Gregb
02-07-2017, 10:24 PM
Hey Crist, if you look closely it almost looks like they were soldered correctly at some point in time but the resistor had gotten so hot the solder has run down and has formed a drip on the bottom end of the terminal.

Gregb

Crist Rigott
02-07-2017, 10:31 PM
Hey Crist, if you look closely it almost looks like they were soldered correctly at some point in time but the resistor had gotten so hot the solder has run down and has formed a drip on the bottom end of the terminal.

Gregb

Yeah, I can see where you'd think that. But the terminals are shaped like that! I have no reason why.

Crist Rigott
02-07-2017, 11:41 PM
Here is a picture of the chassis as of right now. I'm going to install the yoke support so when I work underneath, it'll sit on the support and protect the IF Cans. I also cleaned and masked off the sockets to protect them while cleaning.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5977a_zpskzwgpoju.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5977a_zpskzwgpoju.jpg.html)

Here is a close up of the area where the support was screwed to the chassis. It is a good indicator of how dirty the chassis is.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5979a_zpsdaim5bdj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5979a_zpsdaim5bdj.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-08-2017, 12:26 PM
I started on cleaning the chassis. I'm using a green colored cleaner that the wife uses as a general purpose cleaner, and a fine grit Scotch-Brite pad. Then I followed it up using the cleaner and 000 steel wool. Then a wiping down using WD-40. Cleaned up nice.

Anybody know the name of the stuff that you wipe on and it protects the bare metal?

I've got my work cut out for me for the rest of the day.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_5995a_zpsytbly3yq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_5995a_zpsytbly3yq.jpg.html)

bandersen
02-08-2017, 04:12 PM
I use Boeshield on bare metal

Reece
02-08-2017, 07:18 PM
Steel wool can work havoc if the fine wires get into things. Inspect closely and be sure they're not in there.

Crist Rigott
02-08-2017, 08:54 PM
steel wool can work havoc if the fine wires get into things. Inspect closely and be sure they're not in there.

10-4

Crist Rigott
02-09-2017, 11:58 AM
I'm pretty much done cleaning up the chassis top. I still have to do underneath. I didn't use the steel wool. It started to shed and I didn't want those little shavings getting everywhere.

I did remove the big solder blobs that were at each adjustable coil. these will be re-soldered, but neatly this time.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6007a_zpsnynhdag4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6007a_zpsnynhdag4.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-09-2017, 09:43 PM
I cleaned up the adjustable coils on the top of the chassis in preparation to solder the caps to the chassis. I used my 150 soldering iron to apply a small amount of solder to form a nice fillet.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6012a_zpsp2drm7yr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6012a_zpsp2drm7yr.jpg.html)

I then noticed that the hold down screws on T107 were over torqued. It looks awful.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6013a_zps9ctcfkxl.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6013a_zps9ctcfkxl.jpg.html)

So I pulled the transformer and disassembled it. I straightened the screws. While I had it apart I dusted it off and cleaned it gently with some alcohol. These pics are before I cleaned the coil.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6024a_zpseie9brcq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6024a_zpseie9brcq.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6025a_zpso1pg7rl7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6025a_zpso1pg7rl7.jpg.html)

I reassembled the transformer and cleaned up the case and terminals. Ready to install.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6027a_zpsjgqefk4m.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6027a_zpsjgqefk4m.jpg.html)

Re-installed and ready to wire. I'll do that later while I'm recapping etc. I also cleaned up the case on T108.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6030a_zpsj7ghizq7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6030a_zpsj7ghizq7.jpg.html)

Next up will be to paint the top transformer cover. The transformer underneath looks very good.

My order from Digikey came in already and while the transformer paint is drying, I'll re-stuff the caps.

Crist Rigott
02-11-2017, 07:13 PM
Time to re-stuff the E-Caps!

There are 5 of them. The ones that came off the set are on the left and what I'm going to use is on the right. 4 of them use the cardboard covers. One cardboard cover on a shorter caps was already removed when somebody did the partial restoration.

What I plan on doing is to use 5 new bases because I don't want the twisty mounting ears to break off when installing them in the chassis. The cans that use the cardboard covers will be cut off about 1/2 above the base. Then I'll epoxy a PVC sleeve to the base. Install the new caps and slide on the cutoff can. Then slide on the cardboard cover.

The 1 E-Cap that does not have a cover, the can will be cut off right at the base. The base and can will be trued up and again a PVC sleeve will be epoxied to the base. I'll install the new caps, and slide on the polished up can.

I'm using all Nichicon 105 degree caps and most are at least 10,000 hour caps.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6034a_zpsbiifbeee.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6034a_zpsbiifbeee.jpg.html)

Reece
02-11-2017, 08:16 PM
That chassis looks great all cleaned up. Was just thinking, if makers of slug-tuned radio IF transformers had made them that way, with the little ceramic caps instead of the silver mica jobs, we wouldn't have SMD today. But I'm sure it would have cost more.

Crist Rigott
02-11-2017, 08:22 PM
That chassis looks great all cleaned up. Was just thinking, if makers of slug-tuned radio IF transformers had made them that way, with the little ceramic caps instead of the silver mica jobs, we wouldn't have SMD today. But I'm sure it would have cost more.

Right! As I'm working on this TV, I have noticed the "step up" on the quality of the design. That coil was beefy and well made.

Crist Rigott
02-11-2017, 10:09 PM
I started by cutting of the base of the donor cap for the tall uncovered capacitor (C116). I use my band saw and shim the can up from the table of the saw using a piece of 1/16 plywood. This gives me a more even cut.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6037a_zpsjntyewwv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6037a_zpsjntyewwv.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6038a_zps0ew8tfax.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6038a_zps0ew8tfax.jpg.html)

Then on the 4 other donor caps I marked up from the base 3/8. I know I said 1/2 but 3/8 will work just as good.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6039a_zpszfaeqdt7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6039a_zpszfaeqdt7.jpg.html)

Here is what it looks like inside of the donor caps after cutting off the bases.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6040a_zps0y5cjnq8.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6040a_zps0y5cjnq8.jpg.html)

And a shot after I removed the guts from them.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6042a_zps2oftay99.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6042a_zps2oftay99.jpg.html)

Then I took the old uncovered C116 and cut its base off as low as I can go. You can see a little bit of the phenolic base still attached to the upper cans guts.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6044a_zpsjysbgyhg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6044a_zpsjysbgyhg.jpg.html)

C116 the tall uncovered cap with its guts pulled.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6045a_zps324eibjc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6045a_zps324eibjc.jpg.html)

The other 2 tall covered E-caps (C127 and C128) with the bases cut off. These bases were cut off with a 3/8 lip to them so that when these cans are mated to the donor bases they will be the correct height.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6046a_zpshdvi1x0s.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6046a_zpshdvi1x0s.jpg.html)

Here C127 and C128 with their guts pulled.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6049a_zpsmygkr209.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6049a_zpsmygkr209.jpg.html)

And finally here is the line up of the 5 E-Caps. L to R are the 2 short covered ones C131 and C132, then the 2 tall covered ones C127 and C128, and finally the tall uncovered cap C116.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6051a_zpsuopgwzwn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6051a_zpsuopgwzwn.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-12-2017, 11:34 PM
I cleaned and deburred the cans and bases.

I then made the PVC sleeves from PVC pipe I got at the Home Depot. I true up 1 end on my disc sander using the 90 degree guide. Then I mark the trued end with an arrow. This is the end that will be glued to the base. I true that end up so the can will stick straight on the assembly.
I then mark off a 1 inch cut line and cut it off using my band saw. I then clean up both ends using my #11 hobby knife and sandpaper. This is repeated for all 5 sleeves.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6052a_zpscymhkfna.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6052a_zpscymhkfna.jpg.html)

The sleeves are then epoxied to the bases using 15 minute epoxy. I only apply the epoxy to the edge that will rest on the bottom in the base. In the case of C116 were the base is cut off even, I visually align the sleeve to the base.

I then made up my capacitor assemblies. I used Nichicon 105 degree caps that I get from Digikey. The caps are hot glued together and wired using 6oo volt wire. The assembly is put into position in the base and the the insulation of the wires are marked. The assembly is removed from the base and the wires are stripped at the marks.

I use hot glue to glue the caps into the bases. I usually glob on a big dollop and then insert the caps into the bases. This is allowed to set up and the the wires are soldered to the proper terminal. The ground wire is left unconnected till the cap is inserted into the chassis, then it is soldered to a twisty tab.

Here is a picture of C127. BTW, I used 47uf caps instead of the 40uf called for, a 22uf instead of the 20uf, a 82uf instead of the 80uf, and a 270uf instead of the 250uf.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6054a_zpsygpojphn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6054a_zpsygpojphn.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of C116 before the caps are inserted into the base. It has 4 caps.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6057a_zpstso4zg9y.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6057a_zpstso4zg9y.jpg.html)

Another view.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6058a_zps5ftcyrsi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6058a_zps5ftcyrsi.jpg.html)

The base of C116 with the wires soldered to the terminal.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6059a_zpsd3hp7dfy.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6059a_zpsd3hp7dfy.jpg.html)

Top side of C116.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6060a_zpsv0xbjuf1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6060a_zpsv0xbjuf1.jpg.html)

Kevin Kuehn
02-13-2017, 12:40 AM
Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures. :)

Crist Rigott
02-13-2017, 12:52 AM
Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures. :)


I think it is an Olson 1/4 .014 14tpi. Haven't cleaned them up yet.

Kevin Kuehn
02-13-2017, 01:02 AM
So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator. :thmbsp:

Crist Rigott
02-13-2017, 11:26 PM
So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator. :thmbsp:

The band saw is a Delta 9" table top. I use it primarily for my model airplanes. Usually 1/4 5 ply plywood at the most. Also the blade is fairly new since December.

Crist Rigott
02-13-2017, 11:32 PM
I'm done with the E-Caps.

I cleaned off the Mallory labels on the 3 tall caps. I then polished C116 can using Mothers Mag wheel polish. Followed by 2 coats of wax.

I then placed the cans on each cap and taped them so the can wouldn't come off when simply removing the cover. I use 3M Multi-Task tape for this. It is not like scotch tape. It goes on smooth and you can remove it in one piece. I use this stuff to seal the hinge gap on my control line model airplanes.

C116, the tall uncovered cap, the can is simply placed on the base. It is protected from getting all scratched up.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6063a_zpsulbyriwb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6063a_zpsulbyriwb.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of the tape that I use:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/RCA%20621TS/100_6066a_zpsf7tv640m.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/RCA%20621TS/100_6066a_zpsf7tv640m.jpg.html)

old_coot88
02-14-2017, 12:48 AM
Oh wow! You're into model planes? :banana: Is there a forum where you hang out? Do you fly stuff other than CL? 'Pologies for the thread hijak.

Crist Rigott
02-14-2017, 02:57 PM
Oh wow! You're into model planes? :banana: Is there a forum where you hang out? Do you fly stuff other than CL? 'Pologies for the thread hijak.

I hang out at "Stunt Hangar".
Here is a link to my latest build. It is a control line stunter. I fly stunt in competition. We are judged on how well we do mandatory stunts like loops, squares, triangles, figure 8"s etc. We are also judged on well the airplane is built and finished.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/2016-electric-stunter-build-log/

I also fly some R/C. Here is a link to a build log on my Falcon 56.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1601652-Falcon-56-Scratch-Build

Crist Rigott
02-14-2017, 03:06 PM
I'm cleaning up the yoke mount today and noticed that there is some black paint looking stuff under and aft of the rubber bumpers for the CRT. I thought it just might be some black paint at first. Then I thought why would they paint that area black? It doesn't make sense.

Then when cleaning it off, it seemed to be almost rubbery? Then I remembered that when full sized airplane have rubber deice boots installed, we used to apply a small amount of black conductive paint to the boot and overlap on to the aluminum. This was used to conduct the static electricity built up on the rubber boot during flight to the airframe where it can be disapated off the airframe through the static wick dischargers.

Do you think that what this stuff is?

Here are 2 pictures showing what I mean:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5810a_zpsqfkl7uy9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5810a_zpsqfkl7uy9.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5808a_zpsb9xckmye.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5808a_zpsb9xckmye.jpg.html)

Tom Albrecht
02-14-2017, 10:11 PM
That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.

Crist Rigott
02-14-2017, 11:08 PM
That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.

Yeah, you're right. Overthought that.

Crist Rigott
02-16-2017, 10:54 PM
I started putting things back together today.
I cleaned and painted the volume pot and cover because the tin plating was well worn in areas. This pot is in full view with the chassis out of the cabinet so I wanted it to look good.
One of the wires had a very old piece of friction tape on it and sure enough the wire was spliced. I cut it off at the splice and followed it down into the chassis. I cut the wire and spliced in about a 4 inch piece of wire. This way the original wire came out of the top of the chassis while the extra length wire that was spliced is hidden under the chassis. If you look close into the tuner hole, you'll see some black heat shrink where one end of the wire was spliced. The other end is just inside the chassis. I used some clear heat shrink over the fraying cloth insulation on the pot element and wiper wires to neaten them up.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6076a_zps3xqnvtun.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6076a_zps3xqnvtun.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6083a_zps6oqj8mmu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6083a_zps6oqj8mmu.jpg.html)

Next up was the Brightness and Picture (contrast) pot. Pretty tight quarters. Black heat shrink was used here because the wires are hidden under the box.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6080a_zpszpmxy5ex.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6080a_zpszpmxy5ex.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6079a_zps0mdwqyk2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6079a_zps0mdwqyk2.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6081a_zpsrwvh1bsy.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6081a_zpsrwvh1bsy.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-20-2017, 10:30 PM
It's been a few days since the last post.

I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6084a_zpsfmovwyb3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6084a_zpsfmovwyb3.jpg.html)

Here are some pictures of sections of the wiring underneath. Not very good and low skill level of the person who attempted to do a previous restoration on this TV. Disc caps where tubulars and micas go! He used the hook method when he wasn't winding the lead on.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6086a_zpspe2yu3re.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6086a_zpspe2yu3re.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6087a_zpsnpyxk6bu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6087a_zpsnpyxk6bu.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6089a_zpsscqidbir.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6089a_zpsscqidbir.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-20-2017, 10:38 PM
Here is a picture of the installation of the new E-Caps. I started with C128 and then did C127. While I was at it, I decided to redo the entire area. Much better now! C116 is in left hand side of the first picture. I cleaned the H and V Hold pots and buffed up the shafts, then oiled them.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6095a_zpseizkkitp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6095a_zpseizkkitp.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of C132 after re-wiring.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6097a_zpsewlytavo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6097a_zpsewlytavo.jpg.html)

Electronic M
02-20-2017, 10:48 PM
I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6084a_zpsfmovwyb3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6084a_zpsfmovwyb3.jpg.html)


Hope you used high temp paint...If it is anything like a 630 chassis those power resistors get hot enough to solder with! The heat shrink is probably going to degrade after ~100 hours run time too.

Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.

Crist Rigott
02-20-2017, 10:50 PM
Hope you used high temp paint...If it is anything like a 630 chassis those power resistors get hot enough to solder with! The heat shrink is probably going to degrade after ~100 hours run time too.

Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.

Rust-Oleum BBQ paint. :)

Crist Rigott
02-21-2017, 02:44 PM
As I usually do, I ID each component with a little piece of masking tape according to the schematic/parts list. This helps me ID the parts and their location. Also alerts me to any irregularities that might be present. Here is a picture of the entire underneath followed by each quadrant.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6103a_zps82iqi9kn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6103a_zps82iqi9kn.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6104a_zps99kiiuqa.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6104a_zps99kiiuqa.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6105a_zpsctml44sw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6105a_zpsctml44sw.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6106a_zpsel91dgml.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6106a_zpsel91dgml.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6107a_zpshhfdgyql.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6107a_zpshhfdgyql.jpg.html)

M3-SRT8
02-21-2017, 06:31 PM
Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.

Crist Rigott
02-21-2017, 09:23 PM
Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.

Wow, OK. I'll redo them with out the heat shrink. Thanks for the heads up.

Crist Rigott
02-21-2017, 09:29 PM
This evening I reinstalled the yoke and CRT wiring. When hooking up the yellow CRT wire to a terminal strip, I found this. First off you know that I clean off all excess solder and old component leads. Then install the wiring and components. After cleaning off the terminal, I had what looked like a small ball of solder left. I tried to pry it loose, but that didn't work. Upon real close inspection, I saw that it was a clipped off lead soldered to the lower portion of the lug! I used some solder wick to free it from the lug. It was very close to the chassis, very close. I don't know if that was there before I messed with it or not. In any case I'm glad I found it!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6114a_zpsedb7ok4e.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6114a_zpsedb7ok4e.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6115a_zpspzdt2pym.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6115a_zpspzdt2pym.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-21-2017, 09:33 PM
I thought I'd show you another use of clear heat shrink. I use it over wires that have been damaged by either the soldering iron or by close proximity to a soldered joint. I know I could have used black heat shrink here. But it works very well on the other wires.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6116a_zpsmtdperbs.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6116a_zpsmtdperbs.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-22-2017, 12:00 AM
I redid the resistor and capacitor network between the Sync Separator and the Vertical Oscillator simply because it was very close to the section I finished yesterday and it drove me nuts every time I looked at it. So I made it nice!

Here is a before and after shot.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6118a_zps9nsyfuh0.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6118a_zps9nsyfuh0.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6119a_zpsdfqbrfli.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6119a_zpsdfqbrfli.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-23-2017, 12:49 AM
Tonight I worked on the HV section. After removing all the old resistors and HV wires I cleaned them.

I installed 2 Watt resistors and some new 20Kv wire. I installed the Flyback and tube socket back onto the chassis along with the stationary HV cage. I have to wire the HV section to the chassis next.

Here are some pics before they went back onto the chassis.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6178a_zpslacfujiv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6178a_zpslacfujiv.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6177a_zpspslsmnkq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6177a_zpspslsmnkq.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6176a_zpshhjjskea.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6176a_zpshhjjskea.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6174a_zpsjdkuy81s.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6174a_zpsjdkuy81s.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-23-2017, 11:25 AM
Well, the doorknob cap is bad. That's the 2nd one I've found recently. The other one was on my Admiral 14R12.

It's supposed to be 500pf and it measures out to 36pf. The docs doesn't list a voltage. But the schematic shows 7.5Kv HV. I would think I would need at least a 10Kv rating.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6179a_zpsz2ted2jr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6179a_zpsz2ted2jr.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6180a_zpsp6yu0bar.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6180a_zpsp6yu0bar.jpg.html)

miniman82
02-23-2017, 05:54 PM
Wouldn't worry about it too much, long as the dag on your crt is in good condition it'll have way more capacity than the doorknob anyway.

Crist Rigott
02-24-2017, 12:45 AM
The Dag is very good. Thanks.

Crist Rigott
02-24-2017, 12:46 AM
I finished wiring the HV section tonight. Here are some pictures of the completed assembly.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6187a_zpsgyij47ii.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6187a_zpsgyij47ii.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6183a_zpsci3gewov.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6183a_zpsci3gewov.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
02-25-2017, 11:56 AM
Well, I decided to re-stuff my doorknob cap. I ordered 10 ea 470pf 20Kv caps from eBay for $6 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/282085716087?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I cut off the bottom end right at the bottom portion of the main body. See the red arrow. I used my trusty band saw and took my time. No room for error.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6180b_zpsdhbcejce.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6180b_zpsdhbcejce.jpg.html)

Here is a picture after the bottom is cut off.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6190a_zpsvbdina8i.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6190a_zpsvbdina8i.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6188a_zpstuz5laym.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6188a_zpstuz5laym.jpg.html)

I then used my Dremel with a Robart 3/8 ball carbide cutter
http://robart.com/collections/hobby-tools-carbide-cutters/products/carbide-cutter-3-8-ball-coarse
to grind out a cavity to house the new cap. I kept at least a 3/16 edge so there will be room for the epoxy to glue to when gluing on the bottom. I ground down till I can see the copper end post.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6192a_zpsw0v9sf10.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6192a_zpsw0v9sf10.jpg.html)

I then used some flux and solder to coat each end till my caps arrive.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6191a_zpssolajq2k.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6191a_zpssolajq2k.jpg.html)

More to follow when the caps get here.

old_coot88
02-25-2017, 12:56 PM
Wouldn't worry about it too much, long as the dag on your crt is in good condition it'll have way more capacity than the doorknob anyway.

Yeah, doorknobs came into use with metal cone CRTs which needed the extra filtering. When all-glass CRTs with internal/external aquadag came along, doorknobs kinda got 'grandfathered' along for a while, though not strictly needed.

Crist Rigott
02-25-2017, 06:40 PM
Yeah, I know they are not really needed on this set. I'll re-stuff this one and reinstall for authenticity.

Eric H
02-25-2017, 06:48 PM
So what was inside this thing? Silver Mica?

miniman82
02-25-2017, 07:31 PM
Metalized ceramic usually.

Crist Rigott
02-25-2017, 08:24 PM
Just a little grey but mostly powered phenolic.

old_coot88
02-25-2017, 09:00 PM
I would be leery of re-using that casing because of leakage concerns.

Crist Rigott
02-25-2017, 09:28 PM
I would be leery of re-using that casing because of leakage concerns.

Why? When I solder in a new cap where will it leak?

old_coot88
02-25-2017, 10:51 PM
Now that the innard's exposed to ambient air/moisture, seems like it'd be prone to corona and arc-over inside. Or maybe I'm just being a fuddyduddy. :p:

Crist Rigott
02-25-2017, 11:55 PM
Now that the innard's exposed to ambient air/moisture, seems like it'd be prone to corona and arc-over inside. Or maybe I'm just being a fuddyduddy. :p:

Maybe you are. But we will see together when I get the caps in.

Crist Rigott
02-26-2017, 12:03 AM
I reassembled the TV to power it up. As a recap of what was done so far, was to replace the E-Caps, clean the on-off volume pot, clean the brightness contrast pots, clean the V and H hold pots, clean the focus pot, replace some caps and resistors.
I powered it up using my variac and all seemed good using my 5AXP4 CRT. (EDITT: I then installed the 7DP4 CRT.) After a little warm up, I adjusted the Ion Trap and had a very bright raster. The HV is good! I could hear good audio from channel 6 a local FM station, but when I had a good picture from my converter box, there was no audio. I could hear static and some clicking. A lot of hash when I changed channels. I haven't gone through the audio section yet.
Over all a decent picture and good audio but not together. Of course I have a lot of caps and resistors to replace. I'll do some more power ups as I go through each section. And I haven't even touched the tuner yet.

Here is what I have now:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6196a_zpshdmzysbz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6196a_zpshdmzysbz.jpg.html)

A composite of before and after:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5853c_zps1cr8zppb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5853c_zps1cr8zppb.jpg.html)

EdKozk2
02-27-2017, 02:18 AM
Hi Crist,
You said you heard clicking? Does it sound more like ticking, intermittent or continuous? I ask because if you stuffed the old doorknob with a modern ceramic or mica cap, you may have arcing between the cap leads. When I repaired my Admiral last fall I used a 15kv cap as a substitute for the old doorknob. When I first tested the set I would hear ticking. Lowering the brightness would increase the amount of ticking, increasing would decrease the amount. I had to operate the set on its' side and in darkness to see the source of the ticking. Turned out the gap between the capacitor leads right at the body of the cap needed a greater gap. The proper dressing of the leads solved the problem I had. I didn't reuse or stuff the old doorknob. I mounted the cap under the chassis.
Ed

bandersen
02-27-2017, 10:00 AM
...
I powered it up using my variac and all seemed good using my 5AXP4 CRT. After a little warm up, I adjusted the Ion Trap and had a very bright raster...

You don't use an ion trap or focus coil with a 5AXP4. They use a straight gun and are self focusing. Not having to mess around with the trap is very handy on the workbench.

Crist Rigott
02-27-2017, 10:51 AM
You don't use an ion trap or focus coil with a 5AXP4. They use a straight gun and are self focusing. Not having to mess around with the trap is very handy on the workbench.

Bob,
You are correct. I didn't make my post very clear. I used the 5AXP4 for the initial power up, then switched to the 7DP4 and Ion trap.

I correct the post.
Thanks.

Crist Rigott
02-27-2017, 10:59 AM
Hi Crist,
You said you heard clicking? Does it sound more like ticking, intermittent or continuous? I ask because if you stuffed the old doorknob with a modern ceramic or mica cap, you may have arcing between the cap leads. When I repaired my Admiral last fall I used a 15kv cap as a substitute for the old doorknob. When I first tested the set I would hear ticking. Lowering the brightness would increase the amount of ticking, increasing would decrease the amount. I had to operate the set on its' side and in darkness to see the source of the ticking. Turned out the gap between the capacitor leads right at the body of the cap needed a greater gap. The proper dressing of the leads solved the problem I had. I didn't reuse or stuff the old doorknob. I mounted the cap under the chassis.
Ed

Ed,
The clicking I heard was as if a mica cap goes bad. I was touching the ceramic cap on the big coil on the tuner (I forget the name) and got the clicking sound. It also could be coming from somewhere else.

I didn't have the door knob cap installed at all. I'm still waiting for them to arrive. Good info though. Thanks.

BTW, the HV on this TV is listed as only 7.5Kv so the possibility of arcing between the 20Kv leads should be reduced by a lot.

Crist Rigott
02-28-2017, 12:23 AM
I worked on the Horizontal and Vertical sections today. They have been recapped and recarbed for the most part. I forgot to take a picture of my progress before starting this post.

Here is a picture of what I was working with. Caps and resistors seemingly wired "in the air"!
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6206a_zpswjotpcyh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6206a_zpswjotpcyh.jpg.html)

Anyway here is a picture of the picture as of tonight. Some change. Getting better. I think the audio will have to be aligned before I get any audio that matches the CRT.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6208a_zpsra1mwoqb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6208a_zpsra1mwoqb.jpg.html)

Next up the Sync Separator and on to the Audio section.

Crist Rigott
02-28-2017, 11:27 AM
Here is a after picture of what was worked last night.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6209a_zps78zo1vyi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6209a_zps78zo1vyi.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-02-2017, 12:39 AM
I finished with the Sync Separator and audio sections. All sections are done except the IF strip and tuner. I still have to go through the back chassis control pots to clean them up and check them.

Here is a picture of the completed Sync section.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6215a_zpsy41vmb32.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6215a_zpsy41vmb32.jpg.html)

And the audio section:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6216a_zpskyyp27xp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6216a_zpskyyp27xp.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-02-2017, 11:31 PM
I did the IF strip today. The chassis is basically been re-capped etc.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6222a_zpsczxaqfzc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6222a_zpsczxaqfzc.jpg.html)

I installed some Y2 safety caps and one of them went to the switched AC power from the on-off switch to the transformer. Remember when I redid the volume pot? The one wire was chaffed pretty good on the chassis and I cut out that section and installed about a 4 inch piece of new wire under the chassis. That wire was the one that needed the safety cap. I installed a terminal strip and spliced a wire into the switched AC power and ran it to the terminal strip. I then installed the safety cap.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6224a_zpsf5akwlrl.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6224a_zpsf5akwlrl.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6223a_zpsebi27078.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6223a_zpsebi27078.jpg.html)


I'm in the middle of cleaning, lubing, and checking the back panel pots. When those are done, then the speaker and mount gets cleaned up and re-installed.

BTW, I have a APB for a electrical dual coil Ion Trap in the classifieds. Mine came with a resistor across the leads and a Dual PM Ion Trap.

miniman82
03-03-2017, 08:01 PM
Yours for the cost of postage.


http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194025&d=1488589222

Crist Rigott
03-03-2017, 09:09 PM
Yours for the cost of postage.


http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=194025&d=1488589222

Check your PM. Thanks.

Crist Rigott
03-03-2017, 10:23 PM
The back panel pots are done. On to cleaning up the speaker, then the tuner.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6226a_zpszyx2yesm.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6226a_zpszyx2yesm.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-04-2017, 12:43 AM
I cleaned up the the speaker and re-installed it.

I then decided to clean up the bottom of the chassis a bit. Cleaning up the dirt, rosin splashes, etc. I was thinking how can I get down into the tight spots with my Q-Tips? Then I had the idea of making an extension. One thing about Q-Tips is that they bend when you're really trying to scrub something clean. My extension worked perfectly!

Here are the details.

I used a piece of 5/32 aluminum tubing by K&S. You can get the tubing at a hobby shop, or hardware store. Not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot has this stuff. I then used my round nosed pliers to crimp some detents. I crimped twice and the second set of crimps was 90 degrees to the first and about 3/8 between them. I cut a Q-Tip in half using my cutters and then I push the Q-Tip into the tubing. The detents hold the Q-Tip in place yet it is easily removed and another inserted. The aluminum tubing is small enough in diameter to get the Q-Tip down into some pretty small places.

Another thing I tried with my cleaning tool was to use some lacquer thinner to clean. I used acetone before but lacquer thinner works much better. From now on I'll use lacquer thinner to clean off the rosin on a newly soldered joint.

Here are some pics to show you what I mean.

A close up of the crimped end.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6227a_zpswnbjq29u.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6227a_zpswnbjq29u.jpg.html)

Q-Tips and tubing.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6228a_zpsyskrrevk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6228a_zpsyskrrevk.jpg.html)

Ready to dip into the lacquer thinner!
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6229a_zpscmmr9qzd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6229a_zpscmmr9qzd.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-05-2017, 01:27 AM
Finished the tuner today. I managed to changed out all the resisters. I changed out the shielded wire for some nice aircraft grade wire.

I'm almost done with the chassis. Left to do is the doorknob cap, finish mounting the high power resistor in the HV cage when the parts arrive, the dual coil Ion Trap has to be installed, mount a fuse block, and use the correct hardware for the yoke mount.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6255a_zpsakfqatbf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6255a_zpsakfqatbf.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-07-2017, 04:08 PM
Took care of some details and this is the picture I have. It seems that the vertical sweep isn't high enough. I changed out the V. Osc and V. output tube (6SN7GT). My V. height pot is maxed and my V. Lin pot is very near maxed out (full CW). There appears to be some rollover at the top. B+ checks very good, HV is very good. I double-checked the component locations and values and they are correct.

Any ideas?

Here is MeTV:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6275a_zpss7svwtzp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6275a_zpss7svwtzp.jpg.html)

Here is my 4:3 test pattern:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6276a_zpsfywsrmse.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6276a_zpsfywsrmse.jpg.html)

And here is video:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6277a_zpsbxywjal9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6277a_zpsbxywjal9.jpg.html)

miniman82
03-07-2017, 04:52 PM
Most common offenders tend to be drifted height/lin pots, but you can also futz with the values of the dropping resistors feeding the vertical section B+ to squeeze more height out of it. I have to do that with color sets sometimes, not sure why. For example if there's a 1.8 meg fixed resistor feeding boost voltage to the vertical section and it's in spec but the picture isn't tall enough, I'll stick a 1 meg in there and see what happens. Could be that the magnetic parts of the circuit like output transformer are getting tired, so compensation is required. Not sure, but it seems like giving it a little more voltage to work with is a sensible solution.

Electronic M
03-07-2017, 05:19 PM
Took care of some details and this is the picture I have. It seems that the vertical sweep isn't high enough. I changed out the V. Osc and V. output tube (6SN7GT). My V. height pot is maxed and my V. Lin pot is very near maxed out (full CW). There appears to be some rollover at the top. B+ checks very good, HV is very good. I double-checked the component locations and values and they are correct.

Any ideas?

Here is MeTV:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6275a_zpss7svwtzp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6275a_zpss7svwtzp.jpg.html)


You see the ~4 dashes above the man's head, and the 1 above the kid's head? those are closed captioning data which is placed at the VERY top of the picture...The bright part of the picture should be ~3-10 horizontal scan lines away, but is is not (it is much farther). Your video source is giving you a letter boxed and pillar boxed signal (you can see the extra horizontal black bar faintly on the left side as well). It looks like the below where the picture is shrunk by the signal source and black is added around the edges (please excuse the lack of right perimeter VK's posting system dislikes ASCII art making a right border impossible).

_______________
| b ___________
| l | picture
| a |
| k |___________
|______________

Crist Rigott
03-07-2017, 05:58 PM
You see the ~4 dashes above the man's head, and the 1 above the kid's head? those are closed captioning data which is placed at the VERY top of the picture...The bright part of the picture should be ~3-10 horizontal scan lines away, but is is not (it is much farther). Your video source is giving you a letter boxed and pillar boxed signal (you can see the extra horizontal black bar faintly on the left side as well). It looks like the below where the picture is shrunk by the signal source and black is added around the edges (please excuse the lack of right perimeter VK's posting system dislikes ASCII art making a right border impossible).

_______________
| b ___________
| l | picture
| a |
| k |___________
|______________

Tom,
You're right! Duh. However the problem (if it is a problem) I think I'm having is that there is too little height to the overall picture.

Crist Rigott
03-07-2017, 06:02 PM
Here another picture of the problem I'm having. I have the brightness turned up pretty good and reduced the contrast pretty low so the quality isn't that good. You see that portion at the top of the picture? Loos like it is scanning but not "painting" anything worth seeing. If it would be painting the picture would be a lot larger. Do you think that doing a full alignment help. I plan on doing one anyway.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6279a_zps2rraf6ye.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6279a_zps2rraf6ye.jpg.html)

bandersen
03-07-2017, 06:09 PM
Keep in mind this set has a pretty small viewing area. The 4:3 rectangle should almost fit entirely within the CRT face. Only a little of the corners gets clipped. You've got too much width and height. I think that might just be the retrace blanking interval on top.

Crist Rigott
03-07-2017, 06:46 PM
Bob,
I think I forgot about the small viewing area. Though I have seen Youtube videos fill the entire screen area. In any case I put the mask up against the CRT and centered it and here's what I have now:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6281a_zps1rnszagn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6281a_zps1rnszagn.jpg.html)

I think I'll move on to aligning the thing.

Thanks guys.

Kevin Kuehn
03-07-2017, 06:54 PM
That looks good. If you want a big round picture you need to get yourself a Zenith Porthole. :D

BTW a lot of pictures have gone missing at the beginning of the thread.

Crist Rigott
03-08-2017, 05:57 PM
I thought I'd show everybody how I attach the power cord to the HV cage. The previous "technician" had replaced the cord and used JB Weld to hold in the original drilled out rivets. Of course he used way too much and I had to grind out a lot of the JB Weld.

I get the small plastic spacers and rivets from my local ACE hardware store. They are in those bins that are along the hardware aisle. I used plastic spacers that are 1/4 long, 1/4 diameter, with a #6 screw hole. The rivets are 1/8 diameter and 3/8 long. The rivets are a solid shank except for the last 1/16 inch or so.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6292a_zpsn9dnofpn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6292a_zpsn9dnofpn.jpg.html)

I use my heat gun to gently soften the plastic ears and insert the plastic spacers into the plug. If you have a keen eye, you'll see that one of the spacers is for a 4-40 screw while the other is for a 6-32 screw. Later on I removed the 4-40 spacer and inserted a 6-32 spacer. A 4-40 spacer is too small for the 1/8 rivet to pass through.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6285a_zpsd6p4ivsr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6285a_zpsd6p4ivsr.jpg.html)

I also use a 4-40 fender washer under the head of the rivet. Here you can see how much of the rivet needs to protrude through the HV cage. Not much at all.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6287a_zpsoyujbcl4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6287a_zpsoyujbcl4.jpg.html)

Once the rivet with the washer is in place, I put the head of the rivet on my bench vise anvil and support the HV cage using empty chip dip containers stacked to the correct height to have the HV cage level. I then use a small tack hammer and a center punch to begin to flare out the rivet. The center punch is the type that is pretty "blunt". Once the rivet firmly set with the center punch, I use a domed shaped bolt head to finish flatten out the rivet. You don't have to beat these rivets real hard. Just some gentle taps with the tack hammer. Here are the tools I use to set the rivet.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6293a_zpseuctazqc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6293a_zpseuctazqc.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6294a_zpssj5kzcbm.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6294a_zpssj5kzcbm.jpg.html)

Here is what it looks like when I'm done setting the rivets.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6291a_zps3nn5pgas.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6291a_zps3nn5pgas.jpg.html)

And the finished product.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6295a_zpsmqfixgid.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6295a_zpsmqfixgid.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-09-2017, 12:38 AM
I need some help guys. I'm reproducing the labels for this TV. I'm doing the label that goes on the back of the chassis that is a "Caution" label warning not to service the picture tube. I'm guessing that in the lower right hand corner is some small numbers that designates the part number of the label. My label was deteriorated enough that those numbers are no longer with the label.
Is anyone out there that has a 621TS that has a good label that could get me those numbers? Maybe the RCA 630TS sets had the same label?

Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/100_5753b_zps1ugz8ue7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/100_5753b_zps1ugz8ue7.jpg.html)

Tim
03-09-2017, 03:21 AM
932023-1

Crist Rigott
03-09-2017, 10:53 AM
932023-1

Thank you Tim.

I have what I need now.

Crist Rigott
03-09-2017, 11:02 AM
On a slightly different note.

I've read about a database listing all the 621TS known to be in existence. Does anybody know where or who is keeping it?

Eric H
03-09-2017, 11:44 AM
I was keeping a list but it got to be too much hassle.
Not the least of the problems was the lack of serial numbers from many submissions, without that there's no way to tell if a listing is a duplicate of a set that changed hands.

Crist Rigott
03-09-2017, 03:42 PM
OK Eric. I could see that would be a real hassle if s/n weren't provided.

Mine is C 003445. I was wondering if it was on the list?

Crist Rigott
03-10-2017, 10:26 PM
My high voltage caps came in for the doorknob cap.

It was a tight fit because I didn't want to grind out any more than I had too. I used a 1000pf 10Kv cap with a 25-40% decrease of capacity at rated voltage.

I epoxied on the bottom plate and that is curing while I type.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6307a_zps5r8rxha8.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6307a_zps5r8rxha8.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6308a_zpsqkqh2cwp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6308a_zpsqkqh2cwp.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-11-2017, 11:47 AM
I would be leery of re-using that casing because of leakage concerns.

You're right! In full disclosure the re-stuffed cap leaked. I didn't even mess with it. I took it out and replaced it with a similar cap. Oh well.

decojoe67
03-11-2017, 11:04 PM
You're right! In full disclosure the re-stuffed cap leaked. I didn't even mess with it. I took it out and replaced it with a similar cap. Oh well.
It certainly was a good try! I'm a novice, but would've expected it would have worked.

Crist Rigott
03-12-2017, 07:40 PM
OK, I'm ready to do an alignment. I want to do the Video IF and Sound alignments. Any words of wisdom?

Thanks.

miniman82
03-12-2017, 09:02 PM
If you have a crystal stabilized rig you can run through video first, then go through audio and make sure it matches up channel for channel. If you don't have crystal stability it doesn't much matter, since you'll likely wind up doing both multiple times till they get close.

Crist Rigott
03-19-2017, 08:17 PM
OK, here is where I am on the alignment.

The video IF response curve is a bit peaked but I'm getting a great picture.
The audio curves look real good too.

When I'm playing a DVD the picture and sound are great.

When I'm OTA using my converter, the picture is great but the sound is pretty muffled. When I change channel 3 or 2 I get real good strong audio from the local FM stations.

I can't play OTA using channel because there is too much interference with the FM stations.

I tried adjusting the slug for channel 4 and the audio improved but there is still a marked difference between a DVD and OTA audio.

Any suggestions as to where to look? Does the tuner frequencies need tuning on channel 3 and 4?

Thanks.

Crist Rigott
03-19-2017, 10:17 PM
Well, it looks like my converter is bad. I tried my other converter and had great sound! Too bad the picture quality isn't as good as the one with bad audio.

The good thing is that the TV is playing very well.

Kevin Kuehn
03-20-2017, 10:36 PM
Don't those digital converter box thingies have separate composite video and audio outputs that can be run into a high quality agile modulator? I'm assuming the internal modulator is the weak link. Believe it or not I've never dealt with one of those converter boxes as we haven't had any broadcast TV signal entering our home since a few years back when we cut the local cable company off. :eek:

Crist Rigott
03-20-2017, 10:44 PM
Don't those digital converter box thingies have separate composite video and audio outputs that can be run into a high quality agile modulator? I'm assuming the internal modulator is the weak link. Believe it or not I've never dealt with one of those converter boxes as we haven't had any broadcast TV signal entering our home since a few years back when we cut the local cable company off. :eek:

Kevin,
Yes, they do have some separate outputs. I'll give those a try.

Crist Rigott
03-22-2017, 12:27 AM
I finished making the masters for the labels on the back of the chassis. Now I need to get some of the grey/silvery paper and some off white paper for the "Caution" label. Then run them through my laser printer and then glue them on the chassis. Pictures to follow when I have them printed out.

Crist Rigott
03-22-2017, 12:31 PM
Here are the labels on the back of the chassis. What do you think?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6358a_zpszt0jxium.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6358a_zpszt0jxium.jpg.html)

Electronic M
03-22-2017, 12:43 PM
Very professional. :thmbsp: Wanna make a set for my 8TS30? :D

Crist Rigott
03-22-2017, 09:22 PM
The labels looked great, but they were the wrong color. I went looking for a better match tonight. I didn't find one at least for the adjustment pots. Those labels are a lighter color than the big model and serial number label. I bought some sign vinyl at Michaels and ran it through my Brother laser printer. The labels turned out great! Again the pots labels are a little too dark, but the model/serial number label looks great!
Tomorrow I'll visit some sign shops to see if I can come up with a closer match for the pots and UL labels.
This stuff is called Oracal and is 3mil thick and has a very good adhesive back to it.

Here is an overall view of the back:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6359a_zpsmx9cglz9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6359a_zpsmx9cglz9.jpg.html)

A close up of the model/serial number label:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6361a_zpsawwwthr3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6361a_zpsawwwthr3.jpg.html)

The pots and UL labels:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6362a_zpspo1mny6c.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6362a_zpspo1mny6c.jpg.html)

Side-by-side comparison of the model labels:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6364a_zpsk8ssrpz1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6364a_zpsk8ssrpz1.jpg.html)

Side-by-side comparison of the pots label:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6365a_zpsgrqkcjjq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6365a_zpsgrqkcjjq.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-22-2017, 09:40 PM
Once I get the right color for the pots, I'll give full details and make my files available to anyone that needs them. More details to come.

kvflyer
03-23-2017, 10:24 AM
The labels looked great,
Side-by-side comparison of the model labels:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6364a_zpsk8ssrpz1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6364a_zpsk8ssrpz1.jpg.html)


That looks rather... Excellent! I like that you were able to duplicate the fonts for the various information on this label. And, the Logo etc. is perfect.

Bravo! Thanks for sharing.

Crist Rigott
03-23-2017, 09:43 PM
Thanks! The labels are very good indeed. Not a perfect match, but pretty close.

I had to order some material today so it'll be a few days till I get the new material and then see if it's a better color. So it'll be about a week till we know. Stay tuned.

decojoe67
03-24-2017, 10:04 AM
Very impressive work. It's so great seeing how a classic set like this looked when it left the factory.

Crist Rigott
03-26-2017, 08:50 AM
Here is the artwork of the latest iteration:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6373a_zpsuqiu7hpq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6373a_zpsuqiu7hpq.jpg.html)

decojoe67
03-26-2017, 01:29 PM
Very nice. I'd call that finished!

Crist Rigott
03-26-2017, 07:35 PM
Now, it is finished! Final iteration.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6374a_zpsrfejgbm2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6374a_zpsrfejgbm2.jpg.html)

Samuel1981
03-27-2017, 08:35 AM
:thmbsp::thmbsp:

Crist Rigott
03-27-2017, 01:36 PM
OK, I'm starting in on the cabinet. I have it taken apart except for the latch for the hatch. It seems to be riveted to the wood top. Any suggestions as to what I should do? I really want to clean up that latch. What did others do with their 621's?

Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6386a_zps4jrwjknj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6386a_zps4jrwjknj.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6424a_zpsj3zqycy5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6424a_zpsj3zqycy5.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-27-2017, 11:17 PM
The label material came in today. Looks very promising. Too tired to mess with them. After a good night's rest, I'll tackle them.

Eric H
03-27-2017, 11:48 PM
I've never seen that latch before, I wonder if it was added by someone, or maybe only the early sets had them?

Eric H
03-27-2017, 11:58 PM
I just checked some pictures of other sets and one does show a latch, I don't recall one on my set, but it's been years since I had the lid off, maybe I just forgot.

I don't think I'd remove it, if you must make it look better maybe you can apply some paint stripper to it to remove the lacquer, it's far enough from the cabinet that should be possible.

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 12:32 AM
I'm pretty sure that the latch is factory stuff. I'll let everybody know how I got it cleaned up.

Kevin Kuehn
03-28-2017, 12:43 AM
Soda blaster. :)

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 10:04 AM
The labels are done!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6435a_zpsmcszqcec.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6435a_zpsmcszqcec.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6438a_zpszwo0jqsd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6438a_zpszwo0jqsd.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6440a_zpszl4p6yro.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6440a_zpszl4p6yro.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 11:43 AM
I stripped the finish off the hatch, grille, and face plate yesterday. After cleaning them up and sanding them, I'll then filled the dents, etc with wood putty. Then I'll sand them smooth again.

The cabinet is under clamps and glue right now. That will be ready to strip tomorrow.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/100_6442a_zps1qaefkja.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/100_6442a_zps1qaefkja.jpg.html)

decojoe67
03-28-2017, 06:27 PM
I stripped the finish off the hatch, grille, and face plate yesterday. After cleaning them up and sanding them, I'll then filled the dents, etc with wood putty. Then I'll sand them smooth again.

The cabinet is under clamps and glue right now. That will be ready to strip tomorrow.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/100_6442a_zps1qaefkja.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/100_6442a_zps1qaefkja.jpg.html)
If I could offer some advice it would be not to make these parts and the trim black. I've seen these restored beautifully, but the very dark trim is too much of a contrast against the lighter finish. Mine is original, and I've seen a lot of these, and the color is actually a rich dark brown which looks so much better.

bandersen
03-28-2017, 06:30 PM
Right and it's a transparent type toner lacquer so the wood grain shows through. I'd be careful using wood putty as it may show through the finish. I'd try steaming out the dents and dings or just live with them. Here's mine with original finish.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8106/8601441347_661e4763cc.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/e75CQT)

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 08:56 PM
If I could offer some advice it would be not to make these parts and the trim black. I've seen these restored beautifully, but the very dark trim is too much of a contrast against the lighter finish. Mine is original, and I've seen a lot of these, and the color is actually a rich dark brown which looks so much better.

I just stripped my cabinet. The edge trim was indeed black. While the mask, grill, and hatch are a solid dark brown.

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 08:58 PM
Right and it's a transparent type toner lacquer so the wood grain shows through. I'd be careful using wood putty as it may show through the finish. I'd try steaming out the dents and dings or just live with them. Here's mine with original finish.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8106/8601441347_661e4763cc.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/e75CQT)

Bob,
Thanks for the heads up but where I used the filler are only on the mask, grille, and hatch. These were solid in color with no grain showing and a dark brown color.

The rest of the cabinet will have the grain showing just like it was before me.

Here are some pictures of the TV when I first brought it home. It'll be like this only a new finish.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748a_zpsdppgksds.jpg.html)


Here are pictures from the ad:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/cd239625eded43609caf29883b5e5642_zpswj5njxjv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/cd239625eded43609caf29883b5e5642_zpswj5njxjv.jpg.h tml)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/96bfa11c844c4c5082ab71a7098c98d5_zpsvdxizxmz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/96bfa11c844c4c5082ab71a7098c98d5_zpsvdxizxmz.jpg.h tml)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/12f43f41b0cd4f61ab4f8e1b5686ab38_zpsrct5knnq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/12f43f41b0cd4f61ab4f8e1b5686ab38_zpsrct5knnq.jpg.h tml)

decojoe67
03-28-2017, 11:14 PM
Yes, I looked at mine and the edge trim appears black, although with a bright light on it, it actually is a VERY dark brown!
By the way, mine does have the top latch like yours. I had mine for 25 years and have left it 95% original. Amazingly it's only been on my repairman's bench once in that time, since it's full chassis resto, for just a slight "tune-up", and works very well!
PS - If you read this thread from ARF, you'll see people mention the "very dark brown" trim:
"....My speaker grill and mask are very dark brown. (RCA was into "Burnt Umber in these days.) The beveled borders around the cabinet are also this same dark color, maybe a a shade darker..."
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=115077

Crist Rigott
03-28-2017, 11:53 PM
Yes, I looked at mine and the edge trim appears black, although with a bright light on it, it actually is a VERY dark brown!
By the way, mine does have the top latch like yours. I had mine for 25 years and have left it 95% original. Amazingly it's only been on my repairman's bench once in that time, since it's full chassis resto, for just a slight "tune-up", and works very well!
PS - If you read this thread from ARF, you'll see people mention the "very dark brown" trim:
"....My speaker grill and mask are very dark brown. (RCA was into "Burnt Umber in these days.) The beveled borders around the cabinet are also this same dark color, maybe a a shade darker..."
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=115077

Thanks for the link. Looks like I'll go with very dark brown on the grille, mask, hatch, and trim borders.
My set is definitely a mahogany finish.

Eric H
03-29-2017, 01:03 AM
I just looked at mine, the top cover/mask and edge trim are the same dark brown color, I thought the edges were black also but they aren't.
They look opaque in low light but under bright light you can see the grain of the wood underneath.

Crist Rigott
03-29-2017, 11:09 AM
I just looked at mine, the top cover/mask and edge trim are the same dark brown color, I thought the edges were black also but they aren't.
They look opaque in low light but under bright light you can see the grain of the wood underneath.

OK. What I use is Mohawk toners. These allow the grain to show after I use grain filler.

Crist Rigott
04-01-2017, 04:30 PM
I needed a "Golden Throat" label and saw that Vintage Radio Labels carries these. Great! I ordered 1 in a gold border and dark brown.

I received it today. Not good. Here is a picture of the label that is advertised and the one I received. The one I received was paper and not foil. My bad for not asking ahead of time.

I've emailed him and we'll see what happens.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/Vintage%20Radio%20Label%20Golden%20Throat%20Combin ed2_zpsknexrpmw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/Vintage%20Radio%20Label%20Golden%20Throat%20Combin ed2_zpsknexrpmw.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-01-2017, 11:51 PM
I also discovered that the label supplied was of the wrong dimensions.

He is going to give me a full refund.

Dave S
04-05-2017, 08:47 PM
I use Boeshield on bare metal

Bob,

Please tell us more about Boeshield. I wasn't even aware of it until you mentioned it. Seems like a pretty interesting product.

Thanks,
-- Dave Sica

bandersen
04-05-2017, 09:13 PM
Bob,

Please tell us more about Boeshield. I wasn't even aware of it until you mentioned it. Seems like a pretty interesting product.

Thanks,
-- Dave Sica

Here's a good product description: https://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3.aspx

Notimetolooz
04-07-2017, 02:32 PM
Crist, if it isn't a trade secret, could you give some info on the various materials you tried in making the labels? Where did you find them?

Crist Rigott
04-07-2017, 07:34 PM
Crist, if it isn't a trade secret, could you give some info on the various materials you tried in making the labels? Where did you find them?
This what I ended up with.

Oracal 631 Light Grey #631-072

H&H Sign Supply Company

http://www.hhsignsupply.com/productcart/pc/24-Light-Grey-Oracal-631-Removable-Wall-Vinyl-By-The-Foot-538p44760.htm

I also tried Oracal 651 Light Grey and Silver Grey

Notimetolooz
04-07-2017, 09:35 PM
I didn't realize it was vinyl.
Looks good.

Crist Rigott
04-07-2017, 09:45 PM
I didn't realize it was vinyl.
Looks good.

Yes, sign vinyl.

Thanks.

Crist Rigott
04-08-2017, 09:26 PM
Update on my progress on the cabinet. Lots of pictures. Hold on tight.

After messing around with the dings and gouges on the sides, I decided that the only way I'd be happy is to apply new veneer. So I checked out eBay and found some real nice Ribbon Mahogany strips about 8 x 40. The grain very closely matched what I had and the "leafs" were about $8 each. I'll need 2. Here is a link of what I bought. BTW, very good service and he joined several other eBay purchases of veneer into 1 package and saved me a lot on shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390827726618?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I then trued up all the long edges because there will be 1 seam on the cabinet on each side.
I used the iron on method to attach the veneer. I used Elmers Carpenter Glue thinned about 10% by weight and rolled on the glues using a small roller. Here is a picture of the side of the cabinet with the glue rolled on as it dries.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6470a_zpsrtj1heqz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6470a_zpsrtj1heqz.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of the veneer after the glue is rolled on. It curls up pretty good. Once the glue starts to dry, the veneer lays out flat again.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6469a_zpspowligmf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6469a_zpspowligmf.jpg.html)

I applied 2 coats of glue to each side of the cabinet and to each piece of the veneer.

I then positioned the lower piece in place with the edge even along the bottom. And ironed it on using medium high heat and some brown craft paper in between the iron and the veneer. Then the second piece was ironed on with about 1/64 inch overlap at the seam. Once the second piece was good and "tacked" in place, I ran the iron over the seam and it laid down nicely. Not perfect but a little sanding would take care of it.

I then trimmed the veneer with my #11 hobby knife and then carefully sanded it down along the edges. I cut out the cooling slots on each side by piercing the outline from the inside with a "T" pin. I then connected the dots with my pencil. Then cutout along the pencil line with my hobby knife and then some rolled up sandpaper took care of the rounded ends.

Some final sanding and I'm done.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6476a_zpseetm36ch.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6476a_zpseetm36ch.jpg.html)

decojoe67
04-08-2017, 09:56 PM
Looking great. Leave it to John Vassos to have made such a pleasing looking cabinet. He had a great eye for clean streamline design.

Samuel1981
04-08-2017, 10:02 PM
Laying veneer is a talent - great job!. Can't wait for more pictures.:yes:

Crist Rigott
04-08-2017, 10:04 PM
I then had to add a little filler around the edges because the veneer on the cabinet had its edges slightly rounded.

I then noticed that on the front face, the lower left hand edge along the bottom was not "square" with the front of the bottom. The outer edge was forward a bit and the edge closet to the middle was back some. I removed some wood screws and using a hammer and a wood block, I broke the stiffeners loose both along the bottom and the side. I then glued and clamped the front face even along the bottom edge and reinstalled the screws. After a little wood filling and some sanding, the cabinet was ready for finishing.

I sprayed on a coat of sealer on the cabinet, grille, mask, and hatch in preparation for the grain filler.

I used Mohawk "Mahogany" grain filler #M608-4236 thinned a little with lacquer thinner. I used a credit card to apply the filler and went across the grain and again at 45 degrees to the grain. After a little bit, I used burlap and rubbed the filler across the grain. The color now is a deep chocolate brown. I did the same for the grille, mask, and hatch. This will dry overnight.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6488a_zpswogdgvu9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6488a_zpswogdgvu9.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6489a_zpsswj8ruuf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6489a_zpsswj8ruuf.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6490a_zps9av7m5xv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6490a_zps9av7m5xv.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6491a_zpsestpcnoz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6491a_zpsestpcnoz.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6495a_zpslumfkyar.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6495a_zpslumfkyar.jpg.html)

decojoe67
04-08-2017, 10:38 PM
Very nice. I think yours is going to have the most authentic looking refinishes of all that I've seen. When these are refinished with a light tone against nearly black trim, they just don't look right. It needs to be all shades of brown.

Crist Rigott
04-10-2017, 09:32 PM
Thanks Decojoe67.

I'm going to spray the inside while the grain filler is on the outside. Looks like a mahogany stain and some very dark toner was used. The bottom is the darkest. I'll probably use Mohawk Extra Dark Walnut.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6498a_zps5mznv28m.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6498a_zps5mznv28m.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-10-2017, 10:37 PM
I did a test strip on the new veneer I applied. I glued down some of the veneer I trimmed off on a piece of 3/4 ply. I then applied my grain filler and when it was dry, I sanded it off. I then divided it into 3 sections. The left section was stained with Mohawk "Brown Mahogany" #M545-2296, the middle section was stained with Minwax "Red Mahogany" #225, and the right most section was left bare.

I think the front face and top will get the Brown Mahogany because it is much lighter and I don't want that part of the cabinet too dark. I think it will match the original color pretty good.
The sides, seeing they are new veneer and pretty light so they will get the Minwax Red Mahogany. This will be a light application of stain to help control how dark the sides get.

When done staining, I'll look at a light application of some toner. We'll see. We have to get there before I decide what needs to be done.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6501a_zpstxexhnlp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6501a_zpstxexhnlp.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-11-2017, 07:36 PM
Today I sprayed the inside of the cabinet while the grain filler is still on the outside.

I used Mohawk "Dark Red Mahogany" #M101-0227 and sprayed the entire insides. I then used Mohawk "Extra Dark Walnut" #M101-0209 on the bottom and the aft edges where the back gets screwed to.

Then I used a small touch up brush and brushed on some black in the cooling holes on each side along with the knob cut outs etc. For this I used Mohawk "Black Satin Lacquer" #M104-S224.

Here are a couple of pictures of the inside. One before and one after.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6498a_zps5mznv28m.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6498a_zps5mznv28m.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6504a_zpszqg4pnmj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6504a_zpszqg4pnmj.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6509a_zpste4af0wt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6509a_zpste4af0wt.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-12-2017, 09:27 PM
Over the last several days, I sanded off the grain filler. I used some 150 grit and an orbital palm sander at first, then switched to 220 grit. Then final sanding of 600 grit. I then wiped and vacuumed off all the pieces in preparation to staining.

Here are the pieces ready for stain.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6514a_zpsf2boxemf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6514a_zpsf2boxemf.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6515a_zpsv5pbtqcc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6515a_zpsv5pbtqcc.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6518a_zps5wpzuthl.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6518a_zps5wpzuthl.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6519a_zpsgar61nya.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6519a_zpsgar61nya.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6521a_zpswbqs2yal.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6521a_zpswbqs2yal.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6522a_zpszorq7rq9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6522a_zpszorq7rq9.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-12-2017, 09:32 PM
I then stain the pieces tonight. The sides were stained using Minwax "Red Mahogany" #225 and all the rest with Mohawk "Brown Mahogany" #M545-2296. I used a clean soft cloth to wipe on the stain and another clean cloth to wipe it off.

Here are the pieces after staining.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6525a_zpsjbweav9d.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6525a_zpsjbweav9d.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6526a_zpsndgwabga.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6526a_zpsndgwabga.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6528a_zpsgr6io5tw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6528a_zpsgr6io5tw.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6529a_zpsqtmaxynh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6529a_zpsqtmaxynh.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6530a_zpsqiq6jtjc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6530a_zpsqiq6jtjc.jpg.html)

Eric H
04-12-2017, 10:15 PM
Hey Crist I had a question about laying the Veneer.

I believe you said you overlapped the seams by 1/64" and then sanded them?
How does that work exactly, does the edge sticking up just drop into place as you sand through it?

I've always tried butting the edges together, but that's difficult if they're not completely square.

Crist Rigott
04-12-2017, 10:41 PM
Hey Crist I had a question about laying the Veneer.

I believe you said you overlapped the seams by 1/64" and then sanded them?
How does that work exactly, does the edge sticking up just drop into place as you sand through it?

I've always tried butting the edges together, but that's difficult if they're not completely square.

With the overlap, I then take one edge and butt them together and then run the iron down the seam forcing them to butt together. The sanding comes when the butt joint doesn't lay down completely flat.

Crist Rigott
04-14-2017, 08:56 PM
Today I applied 2 light coats of Mohawk #M101-0229 Brown Mahogany Toner. Then 2 light coats of Mohawk #M102-8000 E-Z Vinyl Sealer which is a 13 oz. aerosol can. I use the aerosol can because it is easier at this stage. After the side and bottom bands and all the trim is painted, then I'll use my sprayer and spray on 2 final coats of the E-Z Vinyl Sealer.

I kept thinking that I got the toner on a little too "heavy" thus the finish is too dark. But when I compared it to the original pictures, the color and tone is pretty close! Of course when I add the side bands and bottom trim, which are very dark, that might make the "field" appear a little lighter. We'll see. On the top hatch I did a little sunburst and left it a little lighter because I wanted to show some grain.

Here are some pictures of the cabinet side-by-side for comparison taken with basically the same light and in the same room. I included a picture of the hatch too.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748combinedh_zpsczskrl1k.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748combinedh_zpsczskrl1k.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748combinedv_zpsa0wcwjwj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748combinedv_zpsa0wcwjwj.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6541a_zpssleupunt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6541a_zpssleupunt.jpg.html)

decojoe67
04-14-2017, 09:49 PM
I think you're doing great so far. Although under bright light my original lid/mask/grill does not appear very dark and shows a lot of grain, in normal lighting it still is quite dark. I feel it's better a tad too dark than too light.

Crist Rigott
04-14-2017, 10:08 PM
I think you're doing great so far. Although under bright light my original lid/mask/grill does not appear very dark and shows a lot of grain, in normal lighting it still is quite dark. I feel it's better a tad too dark than too light.

Thanks for the comments. I think I might have the hatch and mask a little too light right now. I'll sleep on it and see what it looks like in natural light.

decojoe67
04-16-2017, 08:23 AM
Just wanted to mention that I got one of those "Golden Throat" repro tags from Vintage Radio Labels. Well, I'll start with the good - it'll add a bit of interest to my repro back for an RCA radio. The bad - it's washed out looking on a low grade paper with rough edges. It's not even a sticker. Just a card. The picture on their site is 100% deceiving. I'd put the value at $1.00-$2.00 tops - that should include postage!

Crist Rigott
04-16-2017, 10:48 AM
His labels are junk! And his customer service is just as terrible. He tried to tell me that the label he sent was what I ordered. I told him it looked like nothing from the website. Also that it wasn't even the correct size. He then told me those labels come in different sizes and I should have told him what size I needed. I told him a decent merchant would include that info on the website especially if they come in different sizes. I think all along he was trying to BS me. In the end he refunded my money and told me not to order anything anymore. I told him that won't be a problem.

The guys products aren't very good and his merchant skills match his products.

decojoe67
04-16-2017, 07:52 PM
His labels are junk! And his customer service is just as terrible. He tried to tell me that the label he sent was what I ordered. I told him it looked like nothing from the website. Also that it wasn't even the correct size. He then told me those labels come in different sizes and I should have told him what size I needed. I told him a decent merchant would include that info on the website especially if they come in different sizes. I think all along he was trying to BS me. In the end he refunded my money and told me not to order anything anymore. I told him that won't be a problem.

The guys products aren't very good and his merchant skills match his products.
As much as I hate to bash a guy who tries to repro needed items in our hobby, what's right is right. I think it's good to give fellow collectors the heads-up.

Gregb
04-16-2017, 08:26 PM
I have to agree with Crist, his merchant skills are terrible. It very clearly says on his web site that he will make any labels not listed. I have requested two from him now that were not listed and both times got an email back, after two or three requests from me, saying that he is too busy to make them. As far as I am concerned he should take his site down if he has no intensions of meeting his customers expectations. I did buy one of his reproduction photo finish kits and it most certainly is better than nothing but a little more effort on his part would have produced a really nice product. The grain structure on mine looks like the camera was out of focus.

Gregb

Crist Rigott
04-19-2017, 07:53 PM
Yesterday and today have been spent on applying the sealer coats along with the initial clear top coats. Hopefully tonight I can apply the decals and continue on with the top coats.

Crist Rigott
04-19-2017, 10:46 PM
I shot 5 coats of Mohawk DuraCoat Pre-Catalyzed Semi-Gloss 60 Sheen Lacquer #M614-24607 thinned 20% with Mohawk Lacquer Reducer 2255.

I waited about 10 minutes between coats.

Later on tonight I did a little wet sanding to see how things are turning out. I used 800 grit wet sandpaper dipped in water and Dawn dish washing soap.

I wrapped the sandpaper around a hard balsa block and did a little sanding on the hatch.

Here is how it looks when it is sanded a little bit. Notice how "rough" the surface is and how the sanding starts to "level" the finish.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6581a_zpsrs4efbzz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6581a_zpsrs4efbzz.jpg.html)

Here is the same spot after a few more minutes of sanding. Notice how it is nearly all the same sheen? The finish is "leveled" and ready for the next coats.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6582a_zpswdd0erzv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6582a_zpswdd0erzv.jpg.html)

Lots more sanding on the whole cabinet before the next coats. Of course after sanding, I'll put on the decals and continue on with more coats.

Crist Rigott
04-20-2017, 11:31 PM
Got the cabinet sanded today. Ready for the decals.

Crist Rigott
04-23-2017, 09:20 PM
Put on the decals today and the weather cooperated and I shot at least 10 more topcoats. 75 degrees and 35% humidity. The decals are almost buried. I'm sure after the lacquer gases off some there will be more showing.

Here are some pics of the decals and the final picture again with how it looked the first night I got it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6602a_zpsbesaidly.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6602a_zpsbesaidly.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6603q_zpsjywpqci7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6603q_zpsjywpqci7.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6604a_zpsmujb7zlt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6604a_zpsmujb7zlt.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6612a_zpscbrmpwkn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_6612a_zpscbrmpwkn.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748d_zpst67z0cih.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_5748d_zpst67z0cih.jpg.html)

Crist Rigott
04-23-2017, 10:45 PM
Some eagle eye notices that there is a "S" missing from the "Brightness" decal. Looks like some extra sanding is due now.

Eric H
04-23-2017, 11:28 PM
Some eagle eye notices that there is a "S" missing from the "Brightness" decal. Looks like some extra sanding is due now.

This is why I hate refinishing/painting, there's always some last minute goof that just ruins your day.

Looks good otherwise though!

Crist Rigott
04-24-2017, 12:05 AM
This is why I hate refinishing/painting, there's always some last minute goof that just ruins your day.

Looks good otherwise though!

Thanks Eric. I take this stuff in stride. To take my mind off of that, I started to restore my GE 212 radio to go with my GE 810 TV.

decojoe67
04-24-2017, 05:32 AM
Looking good Chris. You have the toning perfect as compared to my original set. Very nice work!

Titan1a
04-24-2017, 08:15 AM
Your work is very nice. The quality shows though!

Crist Rigott
04-24-2017, 10:26 AM
Thanks for the kind words guys.

Sandy G
04-24-2017, 04:07 PM
Looks "Store Bought".. Most of mine look they've been at a dog fight///

Crist Rigott
04-26-2017, 08:37 AM
I think I'm going to darken the top hatch just a little bit. What do you think?

decojoe67
04-26-2017, 05:50 PM
I think I'm going to darken the top hatch just a little bit. What do you think?
It looks good as-is, but a very slight darkening wouldn't hurt it if you think it needs it.

Crist Rigott
05-01-2017, 10:14 PM
OK, here is where I am.

I wet sanded the cabinet using 600 wet/dry to level the surface.

I did darken the hatch ever so slightly with a very light coating, dusting? using my Mohawk Brown Mahogany toner.

Then yesterday I shot about 6 to 8 coats more of clear.

Today I'm wet sanding it again with 600 grit to again level the surface in preparation of the final clear coats. Maybe tomorrow.

Electronic M
05-01-2017, 11:10 PM
Emits low whistle...A few more coats of lacquer and you'll probably be able to shoot it and not hit wood.

Looking good so far.

Crist Rigott
05-01-2017, 11:18 PM
Emits low whistle...A few more coats of lacquer and you'll probably be able to shoot it and not hit wood.

Looking good so far.

Yeah, the lacquer is on a bit heavy. There's a reason for that though. In a nutshell, I screwed up a bit and ended up wiping some of the grain filler away. The front and top could not go through a sanding again because the veneer was very thin in places. So the only thing that I could do is load up on the clear coats, sand, more clear coats, sand, etc till the surface was smooth.

Then I had a problem with the decals (self induced) and had to redo the left side which needed the lacquer built back up till the decals disappeared.

Over all, it is looking good!

I'm leaving for ETF on Wednesday morning so tomorrow will be the last day to shoot some "final" clear. Otherwise I'll have to wait till I get back.

Electronic M
05-02-2017, 10:47 AM
Yeah, the lacquer is on a bit heavy. There's a reason for that though. In a nutshell, I screwed up a bit and ended up wiping some of the grain filler away. The front and top could not go through a sanding again because the veneer was very thin in places. So the only thing that I could do is load up on the clear coats, sand, more clear coats, sand, etc till the surface was smooth.

Then I had a problem with the decals (self induced) and had to redo the left side which needed the lacquer built back up till the decals disappeared.

Over all, it is looking good!

I'm leaving for ETF on Wednesday morning so tomorrow will be the last day to shoot some "final" clear. Otherwise I'll have to wait till I get back.
I've heard it said that "the mark of a professional woodworker is the ability to hide ones mistakes"...You've done an excellent job of that.:thmbsp: The set looks absolutely flawless. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of it with the chassis installed.:yes:

I'm planning to leave for the ETF Friday morning so I can get there friday evening. I'm looking forward to picking up the big RCA from you.:tresbon:

Crist Rigott
05-02-2017, 11:01 AM
I've heard it said that "the mark of a professional woodworker is the ability to hide ones mistakes"...You've done an excellent job of that.:thmbsp: The set looks absolutely flawless. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of it with the chassis installed.:yes:

I'm planning to leave for the ETF Friday morning so I can get there friday evening. I'm looking forward to picking up the big RCA from you.:tresbon:

Thank you for the kind words. I'll PM you later today and we'll exchange phone numbers and such.

Crist Rigott
05-14-2017, 11:21 PM
Just a quick update.
I did some traveling lately and attended the ETF Convention. I'm back home now and will resume on the 621TS cabinet this week.

Crist Rigott
05-22-2017, 11:04 PM
Well, this is going to be a long road. There were 2 small areas that needed a little help before the final top coats. The repairs didn't go so good, so I stripped the front and top and I am starting over on those surfaces. The sides are fine.

Tonight I applied several coats of sealer on the sanded veneer, let that dry. Sanded with some 600 very lightly and applied the grain filler.

In a couple of days I'll sand that off...etc.

Gotta do it right!

Crist Rigott
09-09-2017, 12:23 PM
Here's an update.
The above refinish didn't go well enough for me. So stripped it again and refinished it. this time I'm pleased with the outcome. My previous attempts at grain filling didn't go so well. I learned that I was sanding the grain filler too much and ended up with little grain being filled. The last time I didn't sand so much and the grain was nicely filled for the clear top coats.

I used gloss clear and then the semi-gloss for the final 5 coats.

I'll start sanding with some 1200 that I have and move on with 1500 and finally with 2000. then rub out, polish and wax.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7233a_zpskuyefhq3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7233a_zpskuyefhq3.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7234a_zps3p5mwlqp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7234a_zps3p5mwlqp.jpg.html)

Steve D.
09-09-2017, 01:41 PM
Fantastic job so far. Looks like new decals. Curious, how will the final sanding affect the decals?

-SteveD.

broadcaster
09-09-2017, 01:53 PM
Chris, be sure to check the 6.8 meg resistors in the HV anode area. These all went out of tolerance.

Crist Rigott
09-09-2017, 01:53 PM
Fantastic job so far. Looks like new decals. Curious, how will the final sanding affect the decals?

-SteveD.

Thanks.
The decals have enough of the clear coats on them so sanding through to them won't be a problem. As a matter of fact, there is enough clear coats so that the decals edges are completely disappeared.

Crist Rigott
09-09-2017, 02:38 PM
Chris, be sure to check the 6.8 meg resistors in the HV anode area. These all went out of tolerance.

Thanks for the heads up. They were all replaced with 3 watt resistors.

Sandy G
09-09-2017, 08:11 PM
Now that the innard's exposed to ambient air/moisture, seems like it'd be prone to corona and arc-over inside. Or maybe I'm just being a fuddyduddy. :p:

Uhh, yeah...I'll be the 1st to admit that I know "Bupkis" about the ins & outs of this stuff, but on a set as rare & valuable as this one is, don't think I'd be trying to "cut Corners" or anything like that. Maybe searching 30 yrs B4 a 621 dropped into my lap, as it were, has made me a bit Jaded. That's just ME, however, YOUR experience likely is far different.

Sandy G
09-09-2017, 08:30 PM
I wonder how these things were done at the factory? Something tells me Sarnoff would never agree to a tenth of the "One on One" treatment THIS one has received..

bandersen
09-10-2017, 11:29 AM
I used gloss clear and then the semi-gloss for the final 5 coats.

I'll start sanding with some 1200 that I have and move on with 1500 and finally with 2000. then rub ]

Be careful not to sand or rub through to the gloss or you'll have shiny spots. Also semigoss is made by adding a fine particulate to gloss. If its uneven in thickness, you can get an uneven sheen. Another option is to only use gloss and control the sheen by rubbing it out with a courser grit

Crist Rigott
09-10-2017, 02:01 PM
Be careful not to sand or rub through to the gloss or you'll have shiny spots. Also semigoss is made by adding a fine particulate to gloss. If its uneven in thickness, you can get an uneven sheen. Another option is to only use gloss and control the sheen by rubbing it out with a courser grit

Bob, good info. Thanks.

Crist Rigott
09-10-2017, 03:28 PM
I started to sand the finish with some well used 800 grit then switched to 1200 grit. Next up 1500 grit then followed by 2000 grit.

Crist Rigott
09-13-2017, 09:56 AM
Finished sanding with 1500 then 2000 grit. Next up rubbing compound.

Crist Rigott
09-19-2017, 10:47 AM
I'm cleaning up the knobs and such and I'm going to put out a call to see if anybody has a channel selector escutcheon. Mine is plastic and it was cracked when I bought the TV. I'll list it in the classifieds too. Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7272a_zpszxbuyth2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7272a_zpszxbuyth2.jpg.html)

Steve D.
09-19-2017, 11:41 AM
I'm cleaning up the knobs and such and I'm going to put out a call to see if anybody has a channel selector escutcheon. Mine is plastic and it was cracked when I bought the TV. I'll list it in the classifieds too. Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7272a_zpszxbuyth2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7272a_zpszxbuyth2.jpg.html)

Crist,

A new or uncracked escutcheon would be nice. But certainly not the end of the world if you don't locate one. Most of the channel selection escutcheon is covered by the channel selector knob. Still, I understand you wanting as perfect a restoration as you can achieve.

-Steve D.

Crist Rigott
09-20-2017, 12:16 AM
Crist,

A new or uncracked escutcheon would be nice. But certainly not the end of the world if you don't locate one. Most of the channel selection escutcheon is covered by the channel selector knob. Still, I understand you wanting as perfect a restoration as you can achieve.

-Steve D.

Steve, you are right. But if I can get a metal one which I am told is the correct one, then I'll replace this one.

Sandy G
09-20-2017, 08:52 AM
Sarnoff,Capt Macdonald et all Would be absolutely Astounded if they could see yr work...(Grin)

EdKozk2
09-23-2017, 11:42 AM
Fantastic job on the 621, Crist :yes:.
Do you make your own waterslide decals or buy them somewhere? Where do you buy the Mohawk stains in liquid form, not sprays. I like the way your colors match so well.
Ed

Crist Rigott
09-24-2017, 01:49 PM
Fantastic job on the 621, Crist :yes:.
Do you make your own waterslide decals or buy them somewhere? Where do you buy the Mohawk stains in liquid form, not sprays. I like the way your colors match so well.
Ed

Ed, the decals are from Radio Daze.
I get the stains from a local hardware store called Elliot's.
Thanks for the kind words.

Findm-Keepm
09-24-2017, 07:44 PM
Be careful not to sand or rub through to the gloss or you'll have shiny spots. Also semigoss is made by adding a fine particulate to gloss. If its uneven in thickness, you can get an uneven sheen. Another option is to only use gloss and control the sheen by rubbing it out with a courser grit


Bob, good info. Thanks.

The Smithsonian called - you guys are making them look bad....:D

Freaking awesome restoration, I must say. :thmbsp:

:lurk:

Crist Rigott
09-25-2017, 09:54 PM
Thanks everybody for the kind comments.

It's all done. Enjoy the pictures.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_195437a_zpsqfmujzn4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_195437a_zpsqfmujzn4.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202350a_zpsbzdanilj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202350a_zpsbzdanilj.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202448a_zpskd0akhqk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202448a_zpskd0akhqk.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202519a_zps7ubwreu6.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202519a_zps7ubwreu6.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202543a_zpsuz1pvhs9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202543a_zpsuz1pvhs9.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202705a_zps7ncelkht.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/20170925_202705a_zps7ncelkht.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7348a_zpsvqihesu3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/0%20RCA%20621TS/100_7348a_zpsvqihesu3.jpg.html)

Steve D.
09-25-2017, 10:05 PM
Stunning restoration. A good job done well.

-Steve D.

Telecruiser
09-25-2017, 11:14 PM
That's beautiful!

Crist Rigott
09-25-2017, 11:16 PM
Stunning restoration. A good job done well.

-Steve D.

Thanks Steve.

Crist Rigott
09-25-2017, 11:17 PM
That's beautiful!

Thanks! We, VRPS, just visited the museum last month. Had a great time and you have a great museum!

jr_tech
09-26-2017, 01:45 AM
Wow! Incredible job of restoration! :thmbsp:

jr

Titan1a
09-26-2017, 04:05 AM
Stunning!

tom.j.fla
09-26-2017, 07:40 AM
WOW! All the best,Tom.J

Electronic M
09-26-2017, 10:29 AM
Amazing work! It is so shiny I think I need sunglasses to look at it.:smoke:

There are probably some scarred little 50's-60's German stereo consoles cowering in a corner somewhere furiously rubbing furniture wax on each other "Ack, rub harder vee are still not shiny enough to stand next to it!". :D

Notimetolooz
09-27-2017, 12:51 PM
Excellent, Crist!