View Full Version : 1962 RCA B&W Portable


TUD1
05-08-2016, 08:54 AM
The last time I was at Danny's, I showed interest in getting a 60's B&W portable. All this TV needed was one capacitor, and it works fine. I'll clean it up just as soon as I get a chance. I haven't even cleaned up the other two I was so tired yesterday. And today is Mother's Day, so I might not get home until late tonight.

TUD1
05-08-2016, 11:01 PM
I finally got a chance to plug in this little set. I had to afro-engineer a balun since I didn't have to right one, but it worked. I used Invisible Glass (great stuff, way better than Windex) on the CRT lens, and it shined up very nicely. This set has a very crisp, sharp picture.

OvenMaster
05-09-2016, 02:56 AM
That's exactly the same TV I had in my house as a young boy. The UHF control was on the lower right side panel.
I once knocked it over as it sat on its wheeled wire stand onto the front of the CRT as it was playing. :yikes: My mom just came in and picked it back up and it kept on playing.
My dad replaced the pull-on volume control with a standard one very soon after we got it.

TUD1
05-09-2016, 07:28 PM
I FINALLY got an opportunity to clean this TV up. Out of the four TV's I got, this was definitely the easiest. I cleaned all the tubes and tube sockets with Dawn and Deoxit respectively. One tube, the 6BZ6 was really stuck, but I got it out. I cleaned the plastic cabinet, and will give it the Novus treatment soon. This TV is in exceptional condition, despite being a little dusty.

dieseljeep
05-09-2016, 09:48 PM
I FINALLY got an opportunity to clean this TV up. Out of the four TV's I got, this was definitely the easiest. I cleaned all the tubes and tube sockets with Dawn and Deoxit respectively. One tube, the 6BZ6 was really stuck, but I got it out. I cleaned the plastic cabinet, and will give it the Novus treatment soon. This TV is in exceptional condition, despite being a little dusty.

The tube can't be a 6BZ6, as the set is a series string. It should be a 4BZ6 or so. :scratch2:

TUD1
05-09-2016, 11:20 PM
Oops, I must've forgot. I do that a lot. I got a video of three of the four TV's I got on my YT channel.

Adam
05-10-2016, 09:36 AM
I recently got one of these RCAs too. I was going to post about it after I got it working. It's interesting that yours doesn't show the channel numbers through the window on the front of the set but instead has it on the knob. I have two of these RCAs and neither of them are like that. The picture on yours looks good...

OvenMaster
05-10-2016, 05:39 PM
** Deleted by OM - gently corrected by Adam **

Adam
05-10-2016, 06:14 PM
The window on top is for the channel number and the circular hole below it is for the remote sensor. Here's a pic of my remote set which shows both.

TUD1
05-10-2016, 10:41 PM
That's a pretty neat little set, Adam. Somebody must have been an awful cheapskate back in the day to have bought my set. B&W, VHF only, no remote!

TUD1
05-10-2016, 11:35 PM
Well, I've been bragging on this set for being in such good shape, but now it's having a problem. The horizontal deflection is insufficient on the right side. Weak tube? Drifting cap? I'd like to get this straightened out before May 17th, as I am taking this set to my history class in school so those 21st century kids can see what a real TV is.

Electronic M
05-11-2016, 12:13 AM
H output tube or drive may be weak. Also bear in mind that most all tube sets lack B+ regulation...Or to put it simply if you have 125V from the outlets where you are and good over-scan, if you take it to a place that has say 118V from the outlets you will probably have noticeable under-scan (perhaps on all sides) like your complaining about on the right side of your picture.

TUD1
05-11-2016, 12:25 AM
My line voltage was actually 118 on the dot. I checked. If I run the window A/C or the space heater, it gets down to 105. I don't think I have this set's horizontal output tube in my tube box, but I'll check.

maxhifi
05-11-2016, 12:34 AM
Have you played with the centering rings?

TUD1
05-11-2016, 12:44 AM
No. I'll take it apart tomorrow and see if I have that horizontal output tube. I know I don't have the HV rectifier - I already checked because it has a loose base.

Electronic M
05-11-2016, 01:27 AM
My line voltage was actually 118 on the dot. I checked. If I run the window A/C or the space heater, it gets down to 105. I don't think I have this set's horizontal output tube in my tube box, but I'll check.

The point I was making is that if that history classroom has lower line voltage you get less sweep width/height, and if it has more you get more.

You can see this effect in action if a large appliance on the same circuit like a fridge or central A/C kicks on or off while you are watching the set...You will actually see the image grow or shrink and brightness change in step with it.

There is an industrial park roughly a mile away from me and I presume they have a device that can dip the grid a few volts and back a couple time a second continuously (since a while back that was a regular occurrence)...Once is interesting, but continuously can become annoying real quick.:thumbsdn:

maxhifi
05-11-2016, 02:16 AM
No. I'll take it apart tomorrow and see if I have that horizontal output tube. I know I don't have the HV rectifier - I already checked because it has a loose base.

If the gap is on one side but not the other, the pic
Could be off centre. Try an Indian head test pattern from a DVD and RF modulator and the cross hairs should be in the middle of the screen, if not you just have to centre it. The flat metal rings just behind the deflection yoke are how you do it. Rotate them using the tabs, until the picture is centred vertically and horizontally. I end up using a ruler to get this dead on usually, I never am happy when I do it by eye. Make sure linearity is perfect first though or you will be doing it again.
High line voltage could cause excessive width which would mask the problem of an off centre picture by filling the whole screen. This is a nice set, at this point I am restricting future collecting to only RCA made equipment... Not saying other stuff is bad but gotta have some focus to keep quantity from getting out of hand! Quiz for original poster, are you aware why your set is called a new vista?

Electronic M that is horrible! Friend of mine has same problem and resorted to powering critical loads through a toshiba commercial grade UPS. Talk about a brute force solution but works better than moving for the sake of clean power!

TUD1
05-11-2016, 08:38 AM
Yes, I am aware of the Nuvistor on this TV and my CTC-25.

Adam
05-11-2016, 09:51 AM
There's a coil you can adjust for horiz width on this set, it's on the chassis right above where the yoke plugs in.

old_coot88
05-11-2016, 10:30 AM
If the gap is on one side but not the other, the pic
Could be off centre. Try an Indian head test pattern from a DVD and RF modulator and the cross hairs should be in the middle of the screen, if not you just have to centre it.
That's assuming the linearity is perfect, which it usually isn't. Center it without a test pattern first.

dieseljeep
05-11-2016, 10:53 AM
That's a pretty neat little set, Adam. Somebody must have been an awful cheapskate back in the day to have bought my set. B&W, VHF only, no remote!
I've worked on a few of those sets. I never saw one with remote, but all had UHF. They all had the window for channel indicator.
The original owners, probably didn't have UHF channels, as a UHF tuner was an extra price option. It still was a base model, but good performer. :thumbsdn:

Electronic M
05-11-2016, 12:47 PM
Electronic M that is horrible! Friend of mine has same problem and resorted to powering critical loads through a toshiba commercial grade UPS. Talk about a brute force solution but works better than moving for the sake of clean power!

Within several months of that I got 3 VRT (Voltage Regulating Transformer) isolating transformers that I power my daily watchers through. They do a good job of killing those spikes and holding input voltage to the sets steady. It's been a while since those spikes were last noticed (I presume the utility got on them), but those VRTs are still useful in compensating for line sag when 4 or so sets are on simultaneously.

maxhifi
05-11-2016, 01:11 PM
Within several months of that I got 3 VRT (Voltage Regulating Transformer) isolating transformers that I power my daily watchers through. They do a good job of killing those spikes and holding input voltage to the sets steady. It's been a while since those spikes were last noticed (I presume the utility got on them), but those VRTs are still useful in compensating for line sag when 4 or so sets are on simultaneously.

Do those voltage regulating transformers make any harmonics? I've never owned one, would be curious how the output waveform looks under various loads.

Bill R
05-11-2016, 06:06 PM
Before you make a lot of adjustments, check the B+ voltage. It could be low and cause that problem. Main filter cap or something in the power supply could be just showing as a problem. You may be able to compensate with adjustments, but the problem will still be there and it will bite you at the worst time.

OvenMaster
05-11-2016, 07:31 PM
The window on top is for the channel number and the circular hole below it is for the remote sensor. Here's a pic of my remote set which shows both.
Well, I'll be eternally damned. I stand corrected!

Marco-nix
05-11-2016, 10:18 PM
I finally got a chance to plug in this little set. I had to afro-engineer a balun since I didn't have to right one, but it worked. I used Invisible Glass (great stuff, way better than Windex) on the CRT lens, and it shined up very nicely. This set has a very crisp, sharp picture.



Well, you have a nice clear image on it.. I would like to have one like yours, they become rare....All what we have here where i live, are new old CRT lol

wkand
05-12-2016, 01:05 AM
Well, I've been bragging on this set for being in such good shape, but now it's having a problem. The horizontal deflection is insufficient on the right side. Weak tube? Drifting cap? I'd like to get this straightened out before May 17th, as I am taking this set to my history class in school so those 21st century kids can see what a real TV is.

Nice!!! Is this high school or college?

TUD1
05-12-2016, 09:11 AM
High skool. I'm 17.

zeno
05-12-2016, 09:13 AM
Easy thing to try is the hoz hold control. It can
shift the pix just a little & off center it a little on many sets.
Also watch for resistors in the osc. going up a little,
common on some newer RCA's.

73 Zeno:smoke:

TUD1
05-12-2016, 09:32 AM
First, I'm going to try adjusting the width control.

DavGoodlin
05-12-2016, 10:18 AM
What is the KCS number stamped on the chassis? 121?

I have an RCA Monochrome (Tab Book) service manual that may give a clue to the width issue. I vote for a weak tube or leaky tubular cap off the damper tube.

BTW, I have tons of those odd series-voltage tubes. PM me if you need any.

dieseljeep
05-12-2016, 10:51 AM
The point I was making is that if that history classroom has lower line voltage you get less sweep width/height, and if it has more you get more.

You can see this effect in action if a large appliance on the same circuit like a fridge or central A/C kicks on or off while you are watching the set...You will actually see the image grow or shrink and brightness change in step with it.

There is an industrial park roughly a mile away from me and I presume they have a device that can dip the grid a few volts and back a couple time a second continuously (since a while back that was a regular occurrence)...Once is interesting, but continuously can become annoying real quick.:thumbsdn:

There was probably other problems on the line.
Industrial complexes of any size, generally have their own feeders, directly from the large substation and are usually independant of residential and small commercial.

dieseljeep
05-12-2016, 11:07 AM
My line voltage was actually 118 on the dot. I checked. If I run the window A/C or the space heater, it gets down to 105. I don't think I have this set's horizontal output tube in my tube box, but I'll check.
As I mentioned in a previous post, that line loss should be addressed. A Twelve volt drop with a load of around 12 amps is entirely too much, even though the circuit is probably only 15 amps.
Do you ever trip the breaker or blow a fuse for that part of the home?
There's so many different areas to check. :scratch2:

TUD1
05-12-2016, 11:10 AM
I can't remember ever tripping the breaker. I think this set is a KCS-138, but I could be wrong.

dieseljeep
05-12-2016, 11:35 AM
I can't remember ever tripping the breaker.

For openers, remove all the loads from the circuit and flip the breaker on and off a few times. After that, check the voltage with the heater load. If improved, maybe the breaker should be replaced.