I gott a couple of these 19" Philco briefcase tvs and decided to restore this cool aqua colored one. The CRT tests great, now to conquer the predicta-like chassis in this set. Ive ordered replacement caps and I'm waiting for them to come in. I find working on these pcbs to be a fun change, but definitely gotta be cafeful with the heat when soldering. The insides were filthy and I cleaned the crt, a 19AMP4. You pretty much have to take the face off, with crt attached, to access half of the chassis. Should be a fun restoration.

Here is the chassis with CRT and face off.

Picture with just the back off.

I have a restored Seventeener III that plays flawlessly. It reminds me of the 1960 Admiral I watched as a kid that was equally as good. Fun sets.
Good luck with the resto.

Sorry the picture isn't very clear. But on these top hat diodes , which side is the "in" or "out". I want to replace them with modern diodes, which has the cathode line at one in. I can never remember which way they go and don't want to waste my fusistor finding out...

IIRC the brim of the hat is the same thing as the band on a modern diode.

If one is good the diode/ohms mode of your DMM will tell you.

I have a restored Seventeener III that plays flawlessly. It reminds me of the 1960 Admiral I watched as a kid that was equally as good. Fun sets.
Good luck with the resto.

The Briefcase 19 was a better performer, than the Seventeener III. The S III always seemed to have tuner problems, but the CRT's always seemed to be good.
The Admirals, that were similarly styled, stood up better, but the CRT's didn't last as long. IIRC, National Video sourced. :sigh:

Sweet. Built in multimeter and everything ...!! Sorry just couldn't resist

George

Well I replaced the electrolytics and get a brief raster before a 10uf 450v electrolyric gets hot and kills the raster. I'm going to find the schematic and see what's going on here. This section if a 4 section electrolyric goes to the height control.

Well I replaced the electrolytics and get a brief raster before a 10uf 450v electrolyric gets hot and kills the raster. I'm going to find the schematic and see what's going on here. This section if a 4 section electrolyric goes to the height control.

That cap is in the boost circuit. The boost, generally furnished the plate voltage for the vertical oscillator circuit. More stable! :scratch2:

Well that cap keeps getting way too hot and the 33k resistor with it keeps getting hot and opening. While it lasts, the picture looks good, the width bounces from the right and shrinks back and forth.. Any ideas why?

About the only things that makes an electrolytic get hot are leakage current, installed backwards, or AC across it. You checked the damper tube?

The electrolyric is in right and the damper tests good. Another collector mentioned shorted windings in the yoke may cause this?

What's the model number/schematic for this set? I'm curious to take a peek at this circuit.

Sams set 531 folder 2. All the best, Tom

The chassis is 11J27. I appreciate any help!

I suppose if the yoke is shorting you could be getting some high voltage spikes across it. I wonder what would happen if you pulled the vertical output, or the yoke plug, just to see if that keeps things cooler? Someone with more experience than I will know if that's a safe test to unplug the yoke.

If the vertical output tube (or any other) is removed, the TV won't work because, in the Briefcase 19 set and likely the Seventeener line as well, the tube filaments are wired in series. If you unplug the yoke, you might lose the 2nd anode voltage to the CRT.

BTW, I had a Briefcase 19 portable TV, a trash find in my home town, in the early '70s. Worked very well all the time I owned it. Finally retired it when I moved in 1975. IIRC, it still worked, but I had no use for it by then since I had purchased a new 12" b&w all-channel portable to replace it. The Philco set sat behind the garage for some time before I junked it.

Had I known anything at that time beyond tube swapping about restoring old TVs, I would have tried to save it since those older sets, as we know, were built like tanks, even though the Briefcase 19 had at least one PC board (I didn't care for PC boards at that time and still don't to this day after a bad experience I had with one in the early '70s, which ruined a Silvertone CTC12 clone roundie color set I had and liked at the time).

The Briefcase 19 and, IIRC, the Seventeeners were housed in metal cabinets, although the fronts of the sets, which were also the CRT mask, were plastic. I'm surprised the front of my set survived without crazing or outright cracking, although if I remember correctly, it was yellowing by the time I got it--unless it was off-white when the set was new.

I suppose if the yoke is shorting you could be getting some high voltage spikes across it. I wonder what would happen if you pulled the vertical output, or the yoke plug, just to see if that keeps things cooler? Someone with more experience than I will know if that's a safe test to unplug the yoke.

If there's HV and the yoke is disconnected, you'll burn the CRT phosphors real quickly. If running the set without a yoke, you'll have to jumper the crt heater at the socket to complete the heater string. Leave the CRT out for now, until you find out what's really ailing it. :yes:

Would you need to unplug the CRT even with the brightness turned down?

Would you need to unplug the CRT even with the brightness turned down?

Those CRT's are too hard to get, why take a chance!
You're probably right, never thought of it. I've been doing to this way for ages.