View Full Version : Ge 60's cold 17" BW set in cali...looks NICE..

03-04-2016, 09:39 PM
On ebay...likely am M4 or M5 set. These are a cold chassis set--with a 5U4 rect tube. "U" chassis desigh. I have one like it and another similar. tis one WORKS_-tube looks pretty good !! B

03-04-2016, 10:28 PM
I've been eyeing that set, I like the looks of it. I'm surprised to hear it's a cold chassis, I wouldn't have expected that.

03-04-2016, 10:35 PM
I am 100% SURE it is cold. About 95% sure it uses a 5U4 rect...mounted vertically on the left "wing' of the chassis above the tranny. Mostly consists of 2 PCB's the one on the left has the IF , audio and video..the one in the middle has the deflection ckts. Flyback should be on the right "wing", H-out and damper tubes mounted above it. Probably a 110 degree tube also...

Eric H
03-04-2016, 11:14 PM
Same basic chassis as this 21" version.

Cold chassis, 5U4.

I was eyeing it too but it's a 400 mile drive, one way, that and the lack of space...

03-04-2016, 11:28 PM
This is the same basic chassis of the set that was blown up on the 'Teevee" episode of the show 'Emergency"..where gage and chet TRY to "fix" the tv...and DESTROY it. I thin it was an M6--but that chassis is a LOT like the M4 or M5

03-04-2016, 11:38 PM
I wouldn't mind having that set; but, it would never survive shipping from CA to MS.

03-05-2016, 08:32 AM
Isn't it against ebay rules to show a TV set actually working, with an image on the CRT? :scratch2: :D

03-05-2016, 09:21 AM
I've been eyeing that set, I like the looks of it. I'm surprised to hear it's a cold chassis, I wouldn't have expected that.

GE was trying to win over the TV techs, like Zenith did.
The only real problems with those was the caps in the vert sweep, as you can see. That was back when the set was fairly new, now they all need replacing.

03-05-2016, 09:26 AM
I wouldn't mind having that set; but, it would never survive shipping from CA to MS.

The shipping would be $55 to $75, for that distance. The brittle knobs wouldn't survive, unless they're removed and packed separately. :scratch2:

05-17-2016, 03:39 PM
Here it is. I see a lot of those 'bumblebee' capacitors in there. I'm sure they're all leaky, those are the worst! I'll be recapping it completely before I even fire it up… Here's a chassis pic...

05-17-2016, 10:29 PM
Good luck! Those PC boards are even harder to get out than Predictas :sigh:

05-17-2016, 10:49 PM
I haven't tried to get at them yet (been working on something else tonight) but at least these boards appear to screw on and not use those solder-on tabs to hold them down like the Philcos have.

05-24-2016, 11:00 PM
There were holes under the chassis to access the bottom of the board, so I managed to get away without having to remove it. It's basically working now, but still has some minor issues. It has an iffy IF tube socket. I'm hoping just cleaning it will fix it. The shaft of the tuner knob and contrast knobs are a bit broken. I need to take the CRT out and clean the front of it.

05-24-2016, 11:48 PM
Looks good so far.

05-26-2016, 09:01 AM
These were the good GE's. Ran quite nice & stood up well.
Still a pain to work on though. After this GE made crap sets til
the solid states came out. Dont forget to collect all
the colors !!

73 Zeno:smoke:

RJ Kanary
05-30-2016, 12:18 PM
Adam, that image in your post caused a wave of nostalgia stun me for a moment. I have seen that type of activity many times in my Grandpaps TV shop when I was a child in the Fifties and Sixties. Some of the equipment there looks familiar. The only thing missing is the smell of Ersin® MultiCore solder in use. :)
I did finally figure out why he was a "Grumpy Old Man'. He was a Hotpoint® Dealer and Servicer. :)

06-03-2016, 04:14 PM
I like to use the old test equipment from the same era as the TVs themselves.

I cleaned the tuner, and some of the tube sockets. The contrast control is set up so it's inside the brightness control, and the two were stuck together, I unstuck them. I took the CRT out and cleaned the back of the lens and front of the screen. I have the knobs working, but the tuning, fine tuning, and brightness are broken enough that I'm going to start looking out for other ones. I just finished cleaning a bunch of dirt, dust and gunk off the chassis.

What I still have left: I noticed from the chassis picture of the other set like one, that this one is missing a piece of metal that goes around the HO tube. I might try and make one. It won't be an exact duplicate, but this time I'm going to get some of that metal with the holes already in it. Last summer I made a back for a 7" Admiral and drilled 167 holes, and I don't really want to do that again. And it looks like someone sanded part of the top of the cabinet with around 240-320 sandpaper. I'll wet sand it with successively finer paper, then polish it. I think it will look ok in the end. Otherwise, the cabinet is in great condition.

06-03-2016, 08:22 PM
I used some 600 paper, but didn't want to grittier paper or sand too much, because sometimes too much sanding will lighten the color on these old plastic cabinets. Then I just used a buffing wheel with a little polishing compound. This method didn't get out all the scratches, but it looks good. And I sprayed polishing compound all over that old RCA alignment equipment. And it took me an hour or so with Q-tips and a tooth brush to clean out all those little square holes in the speaker grill.

06-04-2016, 12:13 AM
I got it back together...

06-06-2016, 12:50 PM
Nice work. Those sure were a treat to work on, much more than the series-string GE's that came later.