Well I must say that this is one of the nicest sets I have acquired, very nice wooden cabinet with that nice white look to it.

It is a Rafena Stadion 2 KLASSE C TGL 8838 and comes from Germany.It is in nice shape, cabinet only has a few minor scratches on top, but can all be refinished. The capacitors/electrolytics are all original and are crusty as hell especially the capacitors ,cracked, split open and melted ... As for the tubes it mostly has its original ones there are a few replacement in the amp section of the television, but none of them look bad/burnt. Dont know in what shape the picture tube is at the moment but have a spare good one, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Due to all of the cracked melted wax capacitors in this thing and still having the original selenium rectifier, which I was told is junk by now, there is no way this TV would do anything if power was applied to it, maybe damage something, but I'm not willing to take that risk

All in all looks to be a quite hard set to restore, lots of tubes,capacitors and so on ...

Rare to find a set in that condition abandoned out in the woods! ;)

I had it stored in a cabin in the woods and took pictures when transporting it into my workshop :)

Don't leave it out in the woods, else it might become "trigger trash". Stuff people shoot up and abandon out in federal lands out West.

Don't leave it out in the woods, else it might become "trigger trash". Stuff people shoot up and abandon out in federal lands out West.

don't worry It was on private property and locked in a cabin ...

waiting for the capacitors to arrive

Some pics of the old capacitors, as you can see they are pretty much junk, these are paper wax capacitors, which aren't reliable, so they must go.

You can one there that's blown out and spilled some kind of black gunk over it, it connects on one side of the selenium rectifier.

I don't have a capacitor checker, so cant test them to know which is good, but
these old ones you cant test with multi-meter, only for a dead short on it ...

Okay I recapped most of the chassis of the TV now and am closer to the power up.But I see some things that could be a problem. As you an see form pics,the fly-back has some cracks on it. Looked thru one of the cracks and see another layer inside of it, where the winding's are located, there not exposed, only the white coating over it seems to have cracks on it, and this is actually quite common to have some cracks in the donad.

I resistance checked the HV winding of the flyback and get about 150 ohms so its not open, the sams don't say how much it should be so dont know ...

Do I need to fill up those cracks before power up or aynthing,and if so what materials to use and such ?

Is there anything else I should check/look for before power up test ??

There is a Sam's photofact for that set?....So it is a euro set made for the USA market?

There is a Sam's photofact for that set?....So it is a euro set made for the USA market?

No, no Sam's, not for the USA market.

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Okay got some good news !

The TV powered up no problem got high voltage, full deflection some sound and when i clunk thru the channels the picture responds good, but still only raster, which is probably the tuner/if strip problem ...


Checked and flyback and is cool, not even worm to touch also the HO tube is worm but is not getting hot, like on some of my other sets, then I measured the cathode current of HO and its between 100 and 120 mA, which is maybe a bit to low, what you guys think ??

But there is a problem, this set has a small power transformer and is original, cause of the sticker on it and is used to supply 6.3V to picture tube heater and 16V to some other tube filament on chasy, but IM getting about 7.8V for the CRT filament and I checked there is no visible modifications, but then I realized that the input of the power transformer is 220V which says on sticker and power going into tv is 240V so can that cause the it to be higher for 1,5V ?? ,and it comes straight from the fuse to the transformer.

Its bothering me because when I turn TV on the picture tube filament flashes like a light bulb for a few seconds and then dims down and works OK.I checked the current on the filament and its 300 mA for what is rated at 6.3V .Is there anything I can add to ease up the worming of the filament so its not instantly on, like slow worming of the filament cause I dont want to burn it out ??


I ONLY REPLACED THE CAPACITORS, ALL THE ELECTROLYTIC + FILTER CAPS ARE ORIGINAL AND THE SELENIUM RECTIFIER IS ALSO IN THERE, now It gets brighter if I clunk thru the channels and turn the pots,which are dirty and jumpy.

I'd get a bucking transformer or a variac to reduce the line voltage to 220V.

The television seems to work OK now, but there are still some problems, If I turn the brightness/contrast pot to half the picture is OK but I fI turn it even more up at first it flashes-brightly as it will get brighter but then it dims down how it was potenciometer knob half way, which makes me suspect the HIGH-VOLTAGE circuits dont have enough power getting to them and that's where the old filter-caps maybe at fault, cause when I had a dead short somewhere in the power sully I removed all of the cans and some of them had some white gunk spreading out ,other some bubbles so no doubt they are leaky and bad ...


I first test ran the set for 30 minutes, the HO cathode current stayed spot on 120 mA, I dont know how much is suposse to be, and them measured the temperature of the flyback,primary winding(HV-WINDING) slightly worm to cool, and the secondary winding was at about 111.2f (44°C), and then later I ran it for a good hour and half, the primary was very cool, and the secondary winding's were at about 122f (50°C) and cathode current stayed same all the time 120 mA.Now I dont have enough experience to tell if these are normal operating temp of the flyback.

can bad and leaky filter-caps make the flyback run a bit too worm maybe, or the selenium rectifier, cause I didn't changed it.


Also I'm having trouble finding a good signal source for the TV for a nice non distorted picture, as you can see in pics there are quite a few problems, on one of them there are these vertical lines (hum bars),but on other channels they go away, so its not a problem with tuner.I tried feeding signal to the tuner with DVD , and I did saw some lines that weren't there before I plugged it in, but nothing,almost like the frequency is totally different ...I would need one of those litlle boxes that generates a test pattern on the tv, so then I could calibrate the TV.

Now I have it hooked up on regular old analog cable tv

Im going to buy a proper RF modulator on ebay, found this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HF-Modulator...item33947b8751

would it work, it says its for VHF PAL 5-12 channels,but then I've found the same one but says its only UHF ?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modulatore-R...item3ce730584c


I just dont want to buy it then wait and later found out it isn't compatible ...
Retro-valve-guy is online now Report Post

Okay back to this set

It still has a problem and that is the picture is very stretched on top of the set and adjusting it doesn't cure the problem, can this be due to bad fitler caps, cause it still got all original filter caps in it and even the elenium rectifier is still in there ?? also there is this delay like when I turn brightness more it has a delay of 2 secs ...

other then that CRT seems strong and produces nice static

I would strongly suggest that you replace the selenium rectifier. also, leaving the original filter caps in it is not a good idea. they most likely are leaky enough to at least bring the B+ voltages down & they can also short out, taking the power transformer with it.

Okay back to this set

It still has a problem and that is the picture is very stretched on top of the set and adjusting it doesn't cure the problem, can this be due to bad fitler caps,

i would check for resistors that have drifted out of their ratings

gonna look into that next

If the PS or vertical stage lytics are bad then getting the vertical adjusted correctly will be close to impossible.

On one of my Zenith sets I changed all but ~3 of it's original lytics (the ones I left tested fine), and a few months later one of the vertical lytics went open and the vertical shrunk. Until I found and changed that cap no combination of adjustments would yield good height, linearity, and sync simultaneously.