View Full Version : My new CTC5-D The Wescott


radiomec
06-25-2015, 04:27 PM
:zoom:Hello, my friends! Finally last week I turned out to put my hands on my CTC5 Wescott that I bought in 2013. It was sleeping in a container together a lot of Hammond organs of a friends of mine that imports musical instruments. Last month it left the US and now I have it in my store here in Italy.

Anyone has got a CRT socket for its 21AXP22A? It has a badly broken socket, but the tube has good emission on all three guns.

The cabinet was repainted green, but it was a oak grained model.

radiomec
06-25-2015, 04:29 PM
Now I must rewind the power transformer because it is totally burned. I counted the turns of the coils also if I'm not completely sure of the turns in the AT coil. I counted 475+475 turns, that should be 350+350 Volts, but now I'm waiting that a friends of mine gauges the voltage in his CTC5.

SwizzyMan
06-25-2015, 04:32 PM
I'd wrap the crt base in some electrical tape a few times for now until you get everything working. And if you are going to replace the base be extremely careful. A 21axp22 with good emissions is hard to come by. I wish you the best and have fun with this!

radiomec
06-25-2015, 04:36 PM
Anyone here own a CTC5 Wescott with its regular legs? In my one the legs were replaced with 4 casters, but I want rebuild them as in origin. I would like to know the precise lenght of the legs and their diameter in both the ends of the legs; the greatest diameter at higher point, and also the the more little diameter to the low end. Thank you so much to everyone!

radiomec
06-25-2015, 04:42 PM
Thank you SwizzyMan! I know that the substitution of the socket can be dangerous, but I have a great patience and I think I would make a good work. :)

Dave A
06-25-2015, 08:35 PM
Marco, find a 21" tube brightener and use either side of the adaptor to fix what you need. Splice the chassis side or solder the tube side. Not sure which side you need.

rca2000
06-26-2015, 12:08 AM
Well....it FINALLY made it !! I HATE to hear that the power tranny is bad...I am SURPRISED at that--it does NOT happen often !! Not sure HOW it would either--sinc eit is fused on the B+ line. Is it open or shorted? If OPEN--I am not remotely understanding HOW that would happen--since the primary should be fairly heavy wire...shorted--somewhat possible. but oPEN ?

Like othere said before--just wrap that base up....withsome electrical tape....till you have the chassis workng good.

I have NOT had the best last few months here...my sister is now in a mental hospital...for the last 3 months now....and so on...BUT..my kidneys ARE getting BETTTER !!

radiomec
06-26-2015, 01:32 AM
Well....it FINALLY made it !! I HATE to hear that the power tranny is bad...I am SURPRISED at that--it does NOT happen often !! Not sure HOW it would either--sinc eit is fused on the B+ line. Is it open or shorted? If OPEN--I am not remotely understanding HOW that would happen--since the primary should be fairly heavy wire...shorted--somewhat possible. but oPEN ?

Like othere said before--just wrap that base up....withsome electrical tape....till you have the chassis workng good.

I have NOT had the best last few months here...my sister is now in a mental hospital...for the last 3 months now....and so on...BUT..my kidneys ARE getting BETTTER !!

Nice to hear you!
The power transformer was in short in all its coils. When I connected the first time the tv set, it had the power switch burnt, so I did a bridge on it. The tv set was totally in short circuit. So I disassembled the transformer, inside the metallic black box, it was completely burnt. All windings was without insulation and the AT winding opened in a lot of points and melted coil on coil. Probably some 5U4GB had gone in short (maybe an electrolytic capacitor) and the transformer too. There isn't any fuse on the primary of the transformer...

radiomec
06-26-2015, 01:40 AM
Marco, find a 21" tube brightener and use either side of the adaptor to fix what you need. Splice the chassis side or solder the tube side. Not sure which side you need.

Thank you Dave! A good idea! The broken socket is that of the 21AXP22A, the chassis has a very good socket. Just I'll find a brightener on ebay, I'll try to buy it. Then, when I'll have fixed the chassis and I'll begin to restore the cabinet, I'll repair the socket!

radiomec
07-02-2015, 07:45 AM
For my question about the legs of the CTC5 Wescott, does anyone have the same tv set? I need to know the diameter of the legs where they are fastened under the base of the cabinet, and also the diameter at the lower end of them. Then, are they metallic or gold painted wood? Thank you so much!
:)

Tim
07-02-2015, 01:21 PM
The legs are metal. PM your e-mail address to me and I will send photos and dimensions.

radiomec
07-02-2015, 01:42 PM
:banana: Thank you Tim! Great! My e-mail address is marco.bacigalupo@radiomeccanica.com
:)

DavGoodlin
07-02-2015, 07:54 PM
If you're in Europe, did you drop your 240 volt mains to 120 volts?
Are you aware that the RCA CTC5 was rated for use only with 60 Hertz (cycles) AC?

these two items alone may explain a burned up power transformer.

If you are fortunate enough to find a 50 Hz isolation transformer with just a 240-volt secondary, it needs to be 300 watts or VA. Then you get a 50 Hz trans with 6.3 volts at maybe 10 amps and you are ready to make it work.

radiomec
07-03-2015, 09:22 AM
Dave! :) I thank you for your reply, because reading it someone could learn some important things! However I restore electronic devices, american vintage juke boxes, Hammond Organs (I have restored an incredible Hammond Novachord too), radio and television sets, and a lot of more since at least 35 years!
I'm aware that there are problems about the conversion of the 220 Volts 50 Hz that we normally use, in a 117 Volts line, and I know the differences that there are in transformers for a different frequency. However the transformer was already burn out when I bought the CTC5. Of course I connected the tv set powering it to 110 Volts, (also if in that moment the frequency was 50 Hz), but it was already well cooked! In my laboratory and also in my home, every electrical plug around in all the rooms, has three different plugs, with 220, 160 and 110 Volts. I use the 160V line only for old household electrical appliances or for keep not too hot the soldering iron. And I normally use 220V and 115V for european or american devices. In my home I have a AMI I juke box from '58, my Novachord Hammond from '39, two Hammond organs from '35 and '50, a Parkhurst Zenith tv set (that in my icon) and more, all permanently connected to the 115 Volts line 50Hz. Where the 60 Hz are essential (Hammond Organs with tonewheel generator) I use a 50-60Hz converter inside the organ. In other devices it is not essential, because 110V are not too high and where there is a motor with rubber pulley, I have extended the diameter of the motor pivot .
Thank you!
Marco
:)

radiomec
07-03-2015, 09:35 AM
For replacing the original transformer of the CTC5, I wind another transformer slightly greater, with the same mold of the iron sheets, but with more layer, given that the space inside the external iron box is slightly greater than the space filled with the old transformer. I want rewind the transformer with the normal 115V primary, because for me the voltage is not a problem, but with more iron, the transformer will work better with the 50Hz frequency. A friend of mine that has got another CTC5, has confirmed to me that my calculation was correct and the transformer must give 350+350Volts at the plates of the two 5U4GB.